Loose Bridge on New Rondo SX 2

[Ray Langley]

While experiencing some minor intonation issues on a new Rondo SX 2, I noticed that the bridge was not level to the body of the instrument. The part of the bridge closest to the pickup is at least 1/8” lower than the rear of the bridge.

I removed the stock strings and the bridge is “wobbly”. Is there a suggested shim material that could be used to shore up the fit to make it tighter? The studs that the bridge slides into are tight.

Also the six screws for the intonation adjusters are all set in a different place like for a regular guitar. Should I set them all up for a straight across alignment?

Lastly, the 3 adjusters on the treble side are facing one way and the 3 on the bass strings side are facing the opposite direction. Should I set them all facing the same way?

OK, one more. I am not a guitar tech! Would it be correct to assume that the easiest way to string this lap steel wraparound bridge is to first thread all six strings through the holes, then mount the bridge, then install the strings on the pegs and tighten the strings to pitch?

I have a new set of John Pearse C6 strings, ordered from bOb in the forum. I won’t do anything until I hear from you guys.

[James Hartman]

It's not clear to me from your description what is causing the bridge to not be level. In any case, the bridge not being exactly level to the top should not pose a problem unless it's really extreme. My guess is yours is fine.

It's typical of that style bridge to be "floppy" with the strings removed. The studs are, necessarily, somewhat loose fitting in the threaded inserts. Once it's strung up the string tension sort of locks it up.

Yes, I'd realign the saddles. You don't need intonation compensation on a lapsteel. If you can get the takeoff point of all the strings to line up without flipping the three saddles on the bass side, no need to bother.

I'd put the bridge back on the guitar first. Then install the two outside strings to hold it in place. In future, remove and replace the strings one at a time: it's easier and doesn't mess with the bridge set up.

[Ray Langley]

Thank you. You saved the day for me!

[Jim Smerk]

My SX2 Ash showed up the same way, with the bridge adjusted like a regular guitar. The site states that the scale is 22 3/4", so here is what I did...

1. I adjusted all the saddles to be in a straight line.

2. On the bridge itself there are 2 screws that adjust the how far it slides on the posts, I backed them all the way out so it fit fully flush against the posts.

3. I put the 1 & 6th strings on & started adjusting the screws until the bridge was at 22 3/4" from the center of the nut to the center of the saddles, which placed it about mid-way out on mine.

4. After stringing it up for C6th mine also kicked up in the back, but then again it kicked up even when it was fully seated against the posts.

I will be looking to replace the bridge down the road. I found This Bridge on eBay but it is about a 1/4" lower than this one at it's lowest point.

Hope this helps!

[Ray Langley]

Thanks gents. I did all that. My set of John Pearse strings came with an unwound 4th string (.024). I sure don't like the sound of that!

My 22-3/4" scale length was set at the factory at 23". But, thanks to you two, I know exactly how to adjust it now.

[James Hartman]

Cheers, Ray. Glad you were able to sort it out.

By the way, you can buy individual wound .024 strings here: http://www.juststrings.com/jsb-024nw-1.html, if you want to replace that plain one.

[Jim Williams]

The things you mention are normal with this type bridge. I did a little trick on mine though, if you notice the strings are noticeably higher on the bridge end of the guitar than down the neck and near the nut.

I screwed the mounting posts all the way out and mounted the bridge UNDER the mounting post on top of the threaded studs that the mounting posts screw into.

This makes the strings level, nearer the pickup so you get more output, and might even improve sustain a little since it is in more direct firm contact with the body. If you try this you might NOT want to back the end adjustment screws out all the way as a previous post suggested because it could cause the front of the bridge to dig into the body of the guitar if the mounting studs are a bit unlevel into the body, as mine are. Pay attention to where it is going to rest before tightening the it down in other words. There is a photo of what I did in this thread: http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... ight=rondo

I tried to just buy some replacement screws to do this with but the thread on these is an extremely fine thread M8 and I couldn't locate anything locally that would fit.

I also set the bridge straight across as a standard lap steel bridge would be. I checked one of the strings for proper intonation at the 12th with my tuner, and then set the others straight across at the same point. There are a lot of mods to these guitars, one of which involves replacing the bridge with a regular angle bridge and drilling the body to use a string through string setup. I'm sure this would be an improvement, but I really hate to modify mine that drastically.

I almost sent my Rondo back when I got it due to some cosmetic and minor fit issues, but I'm glad I didn't as it plays great. I guess we just have to remember that when you buy a $119 imported instrument, quality control might lack in some areas a bit.