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Topic: HELP…Emmons P/P 4th string tuning sequence |
LeRoy Sawyer
From:
Walton, NY 13856
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Posted 9 Sep 2003 3:24 pm |
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On the 4th string tuning I need to know the sequence to use so as not to screw up the 8th and 5th strings. The 4th string is (P3 F#), (LK F), E, (RK D#). The 8th string is (LK F), E, (RK D#). The 8th string tunes OK, but the 4th string will not lower to D#. It is very close but is a few cents sharp and won’t lower any further.
Here is the Sequence I have used so far for 4th string:
P3 push raise finger against body with thumb and tune to (F#) with tuning key.
Use the bottom screw on the guitar endplate tune to the open unraised note to (E).
Pull the bridge finger toward the endplate and adjust the upper screw to D# (won’t go far enough).
I still need to figure how to get the F note.
Thank you for your help, LeRoy
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Bill Moore
From:
Manchester, Michigan
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Posted 9 Sep 2003 4:01 pm
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LeRoy, it sounds like you need to allow more room for the lower, by increasing the amount of slack that is on the raise. In other words, the collar on the raise needs to be move a little further away from the bellcrank, that should give enough slack to adjust the lower. You may also need to increase the travel a little on the C pedal.
I don't have the link, but John Lacey has a page somewhere that tells how to set up a P/P. Maybe someone can post that link. Good luck. |
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Rainer Hackstaette
From:
Bohmte, Germany
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Posted 9 Sep 2003 4:26 pm
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Bill is right, you need more slack in the pull rod to allow the lower finger to hit the endplate screws. It is best to tune the changer first - like you described. But you have to loosen all the rod collars first so that the changer finger can move freely. Once the changer is tuned, turn the guitar upside down in its case and adjust the pull and push rods so that they activate the fingers exactly like you have tuned them. This may mean that you have to allow for more slack in the raises and more travel on pedals or knees. But you can see if you are successfull (at the changer end). No need to turn the guitar over until you're finished adjusting the rods.
For the F-raise you need a "half-tone tuner", a hollow spring-loaded screw on a swivel on the bell crank. If you don't have one, call Bobbe Seymore. He surely will be able to help you.
This site explains it all better than I can: http://www.melmusic.com/laceyj/guide.html
It's not rocket science (but sometimes awfully close ...) 
Rainer
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Remington D-10 8+7, Sierra Crown D-10 gearless 8+8, Sierra Session S-14 gearless 8+5, '76 Emmons D-10 8+4, Peavey Session 400 LTD
[This message was edited by Rainer Hackstaette on 09 September 2003 at 05:27 PM.] |
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C Dixon
From:
Duluth, GA USA
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Posted 10 Sep 2003 6:33 am
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1. Engage the C pedal and adjust the tuning key so the 4th string is at correct F# pitch.
2. Release pedal C.
3. Adjust the lower allen screw (at end plate) so the 4th srting is at correct E pitch.
4. Engage the knee lever that lowers the E's to Eb.
5. Adjust the upper allen screw (at the end plate) so the 4th string is at correct Eb pitch.*
6. Release the E to Eb lever.
7. Engage the E to F knee lever.
8. Reach under the guitar and adjust the half-tone tuner located on the 4th string bellcrank (on the E to F knee lever crossrod) so the 4th string is at the correct F pitch.
* If you cannot lower the E's to Eb, It means (as has been suggested) that you have not enough slack in the E to F# pull rod. In this case ONLY, is it necessary to turn the guitar over and make adjustments.
In this event, I stronly suggest you let an experienced P/P mechanic tackle it if you are NOT very familiar with P/P's.
May Jesus bless you in your quests,
carl
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Rainer Hackstaette
From:
Bohmte, Germany
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Posted 10 Sep 2003 6:51 am
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It just occurred to me that the problem may not be insufficiant slack or knee lever travel on string 4. It could be that the 8 string lower hits the lower tuning screw prematurely, thus stopping any further travel. If you also have a C6 lower on the same lever, its premature stop at the endplate could cause the problem on your E9 4th string. All raises and lowers on any given pedal or lever, regardless which neck they work on, have to be synchronized. All movements have to stop at precisely the same time. An untimely stop on a change on one neck will cause problems on the other neck, especially on lowers.
I hope you get it sorted out.
Rainer
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Remington D-10 8+7, Sierra Crown D-10 gearless 8+8, Sierra Session S-14 gearless 8+5, '76 Emmons D-10 8+4, Peavey Session 400 LTD
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John Lacey
From:
Black Diamond, Alberta, Canada
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richard burton
From:
Britain
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Posted 11 Sep 2003 11:43 am
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Rainer, you are quite correct about the lowers stopping at the same time. I had a problem with my RKR, and solved it by making one rod go half way up the steel, then looped it back to the changer finger. This gave me the 'flex' that I needed to get the fingers to bottom out correctly.
RB |
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Dave Magram
From:
San Jose, California, USA
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Posted 11 Sep 2003 7:28 pm
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Leroy, I agree with the previous advice on this page.
If it turns out that your problem is not enough slack on the E-F# change to allow your E to drop to Eb, here's a trick you can try.
First, there should not be a collar spring between the E-F# collar and the bellcrank.
The trick is that 5/64" seems to be exactly the amount of slack needed between the E-F# collar and the bellcrank, and the Allen wrench you are using for the collar screws is 5/64".
PROCEEDURE: Turn the guitar upside down. While lowering your Es to Eb with the knee lever, set the E-F# collar 5/64" from the bell-crank, using your Allen wrench as a gauge.
If that doesn't do it, try a heavier string such as a .015 instead of the more common .014 for the fourth string. That did the trick for me recently when all of the above didn't work for some mysterious reason.
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