Cleaning MSA Changer

Dennis Detweiler · Post by **Dennis Detweiler** » 6 Sep 2003 9:19 pm

Can the MSA changer be cleaned with a petroleum base cleaner? Or, are there nylon bushings/parts that will not tolerate it?
Is it necessary to remove the changer to give it a thorough cleaning? It's a 1976 model U-12.
Thanks
Dennis

Donny Hinson · Post by **Donny Hinson** » 8 Sep 2003 10:18 am

Well, the changer can be cleaned using naptha (lighter-fluid), and some large (florist-type) pipe cleaners. It does have thin plastic spacers (teflon?), but naptha won't hurt them. This will get most of the gunk out, but is not nearly as effective as pulling and disassembling the changer (which is an all-day job for a pro, and will take a couple of days for tuning and adjustment if you try to do it yourself). To check how bad the changer is "gummed", take off the strings and remove the return-springs. The fingers will probably now move very easily, with only a bit of "sticktion" (my own word) between the raises and lowers on the same string. If appreciable "sticktion" is noticed even after using the naptha, then you'll have to do the pull and disassemble thing. Remember to write down or diagram where every part and rod went, and take pictures, if possible. Remove no more than is necessary. (Most all of the rods can be loosened at the brass pins, and then simply slid back through the bell-cranks, and taped in place, temporarily.) Short of disassembling the changer, nothing will get all the gunk from the changer shaft, but that's usually not a problem.

Some players have used carburetor and disc-brake cleaners, but I won't recommend them, as they will damage some finishes and some plastics, as well. Whatever you use, check first, and make sure it won't affect the finish! Do the cleaning outside, as it will be a very messy and smelly affair. Re-assemble and oil with a light machine oil. (Sewing-machine oil works quite well for the purpose.)

Jim Smith · Post by **Jim Smith** » 8 Sep 2003 10:33 am

Donny, the actual word is "stiction". For some reason, dictionary.com doesn't list it, but I found the following definition elsewhere:

Stiction is a combination of STIck and friCTION. Combining these two words gives stiction. Stiction is represented as the force necessary to start a body in motion.

Dennis Detweiler · Post by **Dennis Detweiler** » 8 Sep 2003 3:17 pm

Thanks or the info Donny.
I'm leaning toward removal, just to start fresh. I bought the guitar new in 76. Played it for about 7 yrs then packed it away until last year. I've been playing a Zum since 83. I want to resurrect it with a thorough cleaning and a new TT pickup. It's still a great playing guitar, but heavy. It's my honeymoon guitar

Bought it on the way back from our honeymoon.
Thanks
Dennis

Carl Dvorcek · Post by **Carl Dvorcek** » 8 Sep 2003 5:58 pm

Donny hit the nail on the head. Lose the strings and springs and then check the freedom of movement. If there's friction, tear it down. Quite often, most users lubricate parts with one of those pen oilers. The trouble is, oil attracts dust and dirt and eventually gums up the works. Let it go for several years and the oil and dirt literally turns to gum or worse yet, a resin like substance. On a related note; I've torn several down to parade rest and often found that mass-production machining of critical parts leaves a little to be desired for the slick speed-pedaled officianado. Each time I've torn one down, I've spent literally days filing and polishing each part until it's smooth and slick as a baby's butt and meshing and mingling like a swiss watch. Kinda like balancing and blueprinting an engine. Reassembly always provides smooth movement and "new-like" action. Oh, and one more note; Most people are afraid to tear one down. It's like a helicopter...too many moving parts. Well, my mentor took my double 12 down when I had the balls from a couple of broken strings stuck in the changer. He threw everything in a box. He said, "when you can put it all back together and make it playable, you will have what every steel player should have; an understanding of the instrument and the whats, hows, and whys it does what it does". He did that, and actually walked off and left me alone in his garage. After a few days, I got it back together and have never feared it or any guitar since.

Carl

Ken Lang · Post by **Ken Lang** » 8 Sep 2003 7:39 pm

When I got my used MSA a few years ago, I tore the whole thing down to the bits an pieces, took the changer down to components and soaked all the parts in mineral spirits and got them clean as a whistle. It's the only way to do it, and as posted above, a great way to learn what this instrument is about.

Tony Dingus · Post by **Tony Dingus** » 9 Sep 2003 11:51 am

Dennis, I've used lighter fliud before and it worked good. I didn't know there was so much gunk in that changer but, what ever you do , DON'T USE WD40!
Tony

Dennis Detweiler · Post by **Dennis Detweiler** » 9 Sep 2003 3:04 pm

Last chance for input before I tear into it!

The new TT Wallace pickup is mounted to the old MSA plate. Now the teardown! I have the rod blueprints on graph paper.
Thanks for the advice.
Dennis

Donny Hinson · Post by **Donny Hinson** » 10 Sep 2003 2:59 pm

You can buy 12oz. cans of lighter fluid for about $2.75 ea., or you can buy a whole quart of naptha (the same stuff) at a paint or hardware store for about $4. Needless to say, you don't want to get any in your eyes! Use caution and wear rubber gloves and glasses or goggles, it can irritate your hands and it will burn your skin with continued contact. A 1" paintbrush is an excellent applicator/scrubber. [This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 10 September 2003 at 04:06 PM.]