Gun Oil for oiling one's guitar pedals and rods?

Bob Wood · From: Madera, California, USA

I asked my brother-in-law who happens to be a fairly good metals man what he thought would be a pretty good lubricant for my rods and pedals. He thought Gun Oil would be my best bet. Any thoughts, ideas, experiences on this subject? I would really appreciate some input and/or is there any better lubricant?

Bob

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Many folks use gun oils; they're meant for similar purposes.
Stay clear of the sprays, both for steel and weapons. They dry to a gummy residue over time.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Scott Duckworth · From: Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies

And use it sparingly!!!
_________________
Amateur Radio Operator NA4IT (Extra)
http://www.qsl.net/na4it

I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus!

Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

I've used the inexpensive 3-in-one oil for 30+ years.

I see posts with all kinds of oils, some high $$. But the lowly 3-in-one does just as good.

Roger Crawford · From: Griffin, GA USA

I've used Hoppe's gun oil for years, and don't plan on changing. If I trust it with my life on my Glocks, I think I can trust it on my guitar! I've never had any issues at all. As Scott says, no matter what you use, use it sparingly.

Billy Carr · From: Seminary, Mississippi, USA (deceased)

I used Remington gun oil with teflon for years and a few months ago started using Singer sewing machine oil. I like either the same, just wanted to try something different.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I don't know that gun oils differ greatly from other light machine oils, I'd wager that Singer, 3 in 1, Rem and the others all do the job adequately. If you have a gun, use gun oil. If you sew, use Singer.
Just don't use axle grease or WD-40. And for all I know, axle grease is safe.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Herb Steiner · From: Briarcliff TX 78669, pop. 2,064

I've used Break Free with great results, it's a gun oil.
_________________
My rig: Infinity and Telonics.

Son, we live in a world with walls, and those walls have to be guarded by men with steel guitars. Who's gonna do it? You? You, Lt. Weinberg?

John Billings · From: Ohio, USA

Anything that stays wet will attract and hold dust, dirt, and grime. Sooner or later, you have to take everything apart and clean it. I've had to completely disassemble guitars that were oiled excessively over long periods of time, to completely clean them. Not all Teflon sprays leave a gummy residue. Just find a brand that doesn't use wax in it's formulation.

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

Tri-Flow or Rem-Oil (never together). On rebuilds, I coat the changer and pedal axles w/ a thin coat Moly wheel bearing grease.

Bob Wood · From: Madera, California, USA

Thanks guys. I really appreciate your inputs. Now I just have to decide which way to go to re-oil my good, ole Franklin. You know when you can't push some of the pedals down with your fingers that it's time to re-lubricate it. I did learn a hard lesson one time about WD-40 though. I had to send one of my guitars back to Paul Sr. Man... he called me up chewing me out for using it. Well, he wasn't quite chewing me out but, he did tell me not to ever use it again and he said that he had to take every thing apart to clean them good. Some parts he had to replace. It was a very expensive lesson for me.

I've been gone some time on a non-playing gig and my equipment including guitar sat in storage for awhile collecting dust and condensation, so now I've just taken it out, brushed it off, and feel like I'm starting all over again. Whoa!

Bob

Lee Dassow · From: Jefferson, Georgia USA

REM-OIL, Use sparingly, except on CZ52 Pistols.
Tennessee Lee
_________________
2015 Mullen D-10 Royal Precision 9x8,-1990 BMI S-10 5x5-1972 Silver face Fender pro Reverb amp,-1965 Fender Super Reverb Amp,- 1966 Fender Showman Amp Two 15" JBL speakers,- 2006 65 Fender Twin Reverb reissue Amp,- 1982 Peavey Session 500 amp,-1978 Peavey Session 400,Goodrich Volume Pedals,John Pearse Steel Bars,

Ken Campbell · From: Ferndale, Montana

Here's a dumb question. How does a guy go about oiling the changer, exactly?

Regards
Kc

Jerry Roller · From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA

Ken, I use Lucas gun oil. When I change strings I remove the old strings, lay a towel on the floor under the changers and poor oil across the changer rollers, repeat this several times allowing some time between for the oil to run down into the changer. Let is set overnight then next day wipe off the excess on the changer rollers and pat the bottom of the changer fingers with a cloth and then put the new strings on.
Jerry

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

Mr. Newman, Jeff had an article in one of his lessons I seen several years ago on changer lubrication. His advice was clean the old oil and grit out first. He taught take it outside and drip Lighter Fluid(Naptha) down over the changer fingers to clean out all the old oil and crud. Apply it till it dripped out the bottom of the changer clear. Let is set and dry then lube the changer. Be careful not to get any cleaning agent like lighter fluid on guitar lacquer. I agree with Mr. Newman. I was a police armor, You clean a gun then oil it not just gob oil on it. Tri-Flow oil won a previous post, Some favor Turbine Oil (Zoom Spout) sold in Ace Hardware's furnace section. Do not over oil it will collect dust and dirt. Just enough to lubricate the bearing surface on each connection. Good Luck and Happy Steelin.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I use a Q tip, dab the spaces between the fingers. Then dab the pivot rivets. I don't like the "flood it" approach: just sounds like an invitation to grime to put oil where you don't need it.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

Old Teletype machines thrived on oil. Pedal Steels do not need that much.

Keith Currie · From: Shellbrook, Saskatchewan, Canada

I agree with Jerry, I always clean out the old oil by flushing it real good and then re oil. I dont think the kind of oil is as important as cleaning it well before you oil it, that being said I dont use WD40 or those kind of oils.
I was a mechanic for many years and I never really seen damage from oil, but lots from dirt or lack of oil.

Jim Bob Sedgwick · From: Clinton, Missouri USA

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

I still prefer oil, gun oil or sewing machine oil. I'm also of the opinion that "flushing" the changer does more harm than good. Along with cleaning off the outside dirt you can see, it also carries outside dirt and contaminants deep inside the changer, where they will do far more harm.

Greg Cutshaw · From: Corry, PA, USA

Here's some pics and suggestions about using Tri-Flow lubricant on a pedal steel. There are many great lubricants on the market. A few weeks after receiving my MSA from the factory I oiled it using Tri-Flow and the improvement in pedal drag and overall smoothness of levers and pedals moving was amazing. Of course it's also likely that any lubricant applied at that point in time might have produced the same results. It's been over 3 years and the guitar is still smooth as can be. In fact the pedals actuate as smoothly as a well oiled Emmons push-pull.

http://www.gregcutshaw.com/Lubricate/Lubricate.html

Greg

Keith Currie · From: Shellbrook, Saskatchewan, Canada

What harm can cleaning it do,We all know its the dirt that wears parts out. On a steel we are not dealing with heat or speed so clean and oil and you should be good. Thats what we have found with all our steels, and I sort of go with what Paul Sr has told me about it. I would say he has a bit of experience.

Ken Campbell · From: Ferndale, Montana

Jerry Roller · From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA

Maybe I misunderstood Ken's question. I told him how I oil my changers, not how I clean them which is not very often. As to cleaning the changer most of the harmful sludge buildup which can cause the changer to be sluggish is on the changer axle. I have not found a really good way of cleaning the axle other than take it out, clean and oil it and put it back. This is only necessary after many years of use if the changer is kept oiled. Thin gun oil runs thru the changer and leaves a thin film and the rest runs out the bottom. You can get many good answers to about any question and many of them will actually be good answers. Choose the one you like and go for it. Smile

Jerry

Ken Campbell · From: Ferndale, Montana

Jerry,

Thanks. I'm not too articulate and I'm a visual learner so sometimes descriptions get me all balled up. That said, the combination of your post and Greg's got me to thinking about the problem differently than I had been which was the desired result.

Again, thanks

Kc

Forum Index > Pedal Steel	Goto page 1, 2 Next	Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic