Shubb Bars
Moderator: Brad Bechtel
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Shubb Bars
It was a strange feel for me when I tried a dobro bar and I had a variety dobro and lap steel bars. However, being a pedal steel player and use to a 7/8 X 3-3/8" round bar, I had a number of smaller round bars made and thought it felt better than the standard dobro bar.
I had a gigantic Robert Randolf bar and decided to give it a try and although the bar is similar to a railroad track rail I started to get a better and beefier tone from it.
I contacted Jim Palenscar and ordered a Shubb SP1 and SP2 bar. The SP1 has a rounder end so it's easier to slide over the strings.
The tone, feel and accuracy are nice and the more I use it the more I like it.
Anyone have a similar experience?
I had a gigantic Robert Randolf bar and decided to give it a try and although the bar is similar to a railroad track rail I started to get a better and beefier tone from it.
I contacted Jim Palenscar and ordered a Shubb SP1 and SP2 bar. The SP1 has a rounder end so it's easier to slide over the strings.
The tone, feel and accuracy are nice and the more I use it the more I like it.
Anyone have a similar experience?
I used an SP-1 for a while and remember really liking it. I have wanted to revisit it, but can't find it. It's been kind of frustrating and I'm thinking of buying another just to try it out again. I play lap steel and resonator and ever since I got a 3/4 tribotone, that's about all I've used on anything I play.
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I have an SP2 and I found that it was a good bar for everything but reverse slants, those are awkward with it. I also ground off the tail end of it a small amount so that it didn't catch strings when the bar was being slid back, not enough to inhibit doing hammer ons and pull offs with it tho. Since I had the grinder out I cut a small notch at the top, just something to provide grip for my thumb to make reverse slants a little more doable. That worked, sort of, but the cut away part needs to be roughed up or another notch cut to facilitate traction for the thumb. My go to bar is a Dunlop 918, but I sometimes get arthritic flare ups and the SP2 goes with me for those occasions.
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i use the sp1 bar. i have several of them, some i have modified by removing some material for weight.
i emailed them about making a longer version that would work for more strings. got an email back saying no interest in it. wish they would make one about an inch longer for use with 10 12 and 14 stringers.
the RR bar is really not much longer than the SP1 if you look at them side by side. just bigger and heavier.
i emailed them about making a longer version that would work for more strings. got an email back saying no interest in it. wish they would make one about an inch longer for use with 10 12 and 14 stringers.
the RR bar is really not much longer than the SP1 if you look at them side by side. just bigger and heavier.
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Hi Len
I love my SP1 -- but only for open tuned guitar on my lap dobro style and my lap steel as Ive been trying Sacred Steel.
I use a round bar on lap steel for everything else.
I'm no expert but I guess it comes down to SP1 for lots of hammer work and round for a lot of steel/slant work for me.
Hope I explained that ok.
Happy Trails
Dale
I love my SP1 -- but only for open tuned guitar on my lap dobro style and my lap steel as Ive been trying Sacred Steel.
I use a round bar on lap steel for everything else.
I'm no expert but I guess it comes down to SP1 for lots of hammer work and round for a lot of steel/slant work for me.
Hope I explained that ok.
Happy Trails
Dale
1965 Blonde Fender Deluxe 8, Rogue Jersey Lightning, Roland Cube, Polytone Mini/Teeny Brute
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- Jim Newberry
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Great! I've got the 1 and 2, and the 2 feels way better in my hand. Like Dale, I use it on my acoustic guitar, but prefer the bulletz with my lectrified steels.
"The Masher of Touch and Tone"
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