Any steel players who are also Plumbers?

CrowBear Schmitt · Post by **CrowBear Schmitt** » 17 Jul 2013 8:53 am

Reminds me of a Laurel & Hardy movie where the house is all set up wrong
the guy sits in the tub w: a cigar, turns on the faucet & BOOM !
Gas instead of Water

Jim Cohen · Post by **Jim Cohen** » 17 Jul 2013 9:02 am

Curtis, that's the first thing we checked; no problem there.

Bob Cox: thanks for that great info. I'll write you directly for some further questions.

Gene Jones · Post by **Gene Jones** » 17 Jul 2013 9:19 am

Jim we had a direct connection to your problem. A few years ago we bought a new split level that we thought met all of our wants. After moving in, we discovered that the toilets were flushing with hot water.

A frantic call to the builder revealed that the plumbers had reversed the connections during construction, and it was a simple problem to correct.

Don't panic.......

Jim Cohen · Post by **Jim Cohen** » 17 Jul 2013 9:20 am

Wish ours was that easy to fix, Gene. We obviously checked that first...

Dick Wood · Post by **Dick Wood** » 17 Jul 2013 9:21 am

Jim-Get on U-Toob and look up Three Stooges-A plumbing we will go.Very good instructional video indeed.

I'm here to help all I can.

Jim Cohen · Post by **Jim Cohen** » 17 Jul 2013 9:25 am

Thanks Dick, but Bud Angelotti scooped you on that one back on page 1.

Gene Jones · Post by **Gene Jones** » 20 Jul 2013 6:07 am

The modern world is too complicated for me. When I was growing up in southwestern Oklahoma the only plumbing we had was a pipe from the windmill to the horses water tank.

If the water stopped running; either the wind wasn't blowing or the well had gone dry.

Joe Casey · Post by **Joe Casey** » 20 Jul 2013 6:47 am

An answer to the headlines of this post

I have heard some Steel players who sounded like plumbers.

Ronnie Boettcher · Post by **Ronnie Boettcher** » 25 Jul 2013 12:46 pm

I was a union electrician for 46 years. I would insist on a complete new washer. Here is why. The only way to rectify your problem is to have a new complete wiring of the washer, and of the complete mixing valve. It might be caused by the solenoids pulling the valve open, which is controlled by the temperature, and timer controls. And also of the valve itself stuck in the open position. If it is under warranty, tell them to take the junk back, and replace it with a new unit. You as the consumer have the right to send it back. Then what I would do is buy a different brand. They all are nothing but a tin box, with parts inside them. You failed to mention the brand name, and the retail store where it was purchased. Those people do not like to have their products dissed, in public.
Good luck, Ronnie

Ken Metcalf · Post by **Ken Metcalf** » 26 Jul 2013 2:39 am

I am not a Plumber but I play one on the internet and I believe Ronnie is on the right track.
If the mixing valve (Washing Machine) is not the culprit then you may want to tune it to 440..

Ron Page · Post by **Ron Page** » 26 Jul 2013 8:41 am

Ok, Jimbeax. Inquiring minds want to know.

A. Problem solved?
B. You wearing dirty underpants?
C. Both A and B?

Jim Cohen · Post by **Jim Cohen** » 1 Aug 2013 9:16 am

Ron Page wrote: Ok, Jimbeax. Inquiring minds want to know.

A. Problem solved?
B. You wearing dirty underpants?
C. Both A and B?

A. No
B. Let's just say I'd better not get hit by a bus and dragged into the E.R. unconscious. Mama warned me...

C. See A&B above

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
So here's the latest: It turns out that this type of (front-loading) washer does not have a "mix valve". There's a separate valve for hot water and a separate one for cold water. The only place they mix inside the machine is in the soap tray, before drizzling down into the main clothes tank. The repair man told me that if there was a valve stuck open, then the water would drip through the soap tray into the machine itself, which it was not doing. The biggest mystery is that the problem we're having occurs when the machine is OFF (as long as the (separate) taps from the wall to the machine are open.

So, no, the problem is still not fixed.

Shorty Rogers · Post by **Shorty Rogers** » 1 Aug 2013 9:32 am

Jim, What happens when you turn only one of the taps at the wall on? I'd check it twice, with each one on separately, with the machine off each time.

Jim Cohen · Post by **Jim Cohen** » 1 Aug 2013 9:34 am

Shorty, that sounds like a good test. I'll try it and report back here. thanks for the suggestion.

Curtis Alford · Post by **Curtis Alford** » 1 Aug 2013 12:55 pm

There must be a cross connection in the new washer.
I feel like the repair or service is not well trained in that model washer. A mixing valve is the way to control the water temperature for the machine.
What make and model machine do you have? I would like to research it.

Jim Cohen · Post by **Jim Cohen** » 1 Aug 2013 1:07 pm

LG Model WM2650H

BUT! Y'all are NOT gonna believe this. I just went to run the test that Shorty suggested and discovered that... the problem has now vanished! It is NOT doing it anymore! What the heck?? I'm just mystified. Thanks to everyone for their input; I just hope the problem stays away for good!

Bob Hickish · Post by **Bob Hickish** » 1 Aug 2013 1:22 pm

Jiminhotwater

do you have a hot water circulator -???- you know the kind that always keeps the hot water tap hot -- if so, turn it off and see what happens --

Jim Cohen · Post by **Jim Cohen** » 1 Aug 2013 1:26 pm

As far as I know, we don't have one of those.

Bob Hickish · Post by **Bob Hickish** » 1 Aug 2013 1:55 pm

Jim Cohen wrote:As far as I know, we don't have one of those.

hot water jim

if you get instant hot water at the furtherest tap from the hot water heater , might be a clue you do have one --

wish i was a plumber Jim -- my expertise is in converting kerosine into noise

I just remembered I once held the title of experimental plumber at Boeing -- so trust me

Jim Cohen · Post by **Jim Cohen** » 1 Aug 2013 2:14 pm

we don't have instant hot water. it usually has to warm up for a minute.

Jim Cohen · Post by **Jim Cohen** » 1 Aug 2013 2:14 pm

(duplicate deleted)

Curtis Alford · Post by **Curtis Alford** » 1 Aug 2013 3:49 pm

You have the steam option on that machine?

Jim Cohen · Post by **Jim Cohen** » 1 Aug 2013 3:54 pm

Yes, I believe it does have the steam option, though we haven't used it yet.

Joe B. Long · Post by **Joe B. Long** » 1 Aug 2013 5:05 pm

Jim Cohen wrote:Yeah, but I still have two questions:

a) why only this sink?

b) why when the washing machine is OFF? Isn't the mixvalve dormant when the machine is off? Why should it matter if it's faulty unless the machine is ON and water is flowing through it?

I am a plumber and have been licensed for 13 years....I would say it's a bad solenoid or mixing valve in the washing machine.....do you have a single lever box on the wall that turns both hot and cold water on, or is there separate hot and cold valves with independent shut-offs?....have you tried to turn off just the hot water and see what happens?...is the water scalding hot or lukewarm at the sink when you run it? The sink might be the closest fixture that is on the same part of the plumbing manifold in the wall and the hot water is taking the path of least resistance to that fixture...I have tons more question and a few more possibilities that could be causing this. With out being there and seeing what your plumbing is like it's hard to guess.

Jim Cohen · Post by **Jim Cohen** » 1 Aug 2013 5:15 pm

Joe B. Long wrote:....I would say it's a bad solenoid or mixing valve in the washing machine.

Thanks, Joe, but as described above, this machine does not have a mixing valve. Also there is a separate hot tap and separate cold tap at the wall. Each is connected to a separate flexible hose that goes to two separate inputs/valves inside the washer. those two interior lines ONLY meet each other in the soap tray. That's the only place that any mixing of hot and cold water happens inside the washer.