GFI 10th string going flat?
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
- Chuck Roach
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 24 Mar 2010 12:37 pm
- Location: Missouri, USA
GFI 10th string going flat?
I am having a problem with a GFI Ultra S10 with pad. I have had the guitar 5 years plus and have no problems. Now my 10th string is sporadically returning flat. It is only the 10th string that is coming back flat and as I said it is sporadic. I can be playing along fine and all the sudden when I play the 10th string pedals up it is flat by quite a bit. Any other GFI owners encounter this problem?
- Rick Barnhart
- Posts: 3046
- Joined: 23 May 2008 2:21 pm
- Location: Arizona, USA
Assuming you've checked under the hood for binding parts, gunk in the changer, or lubrication issues...I'd try a new 10th string. My Williams was acting up like that once, turned out to be a bound up cross shaft. The fix was simply to remove the chrome plate on the player side and back off the delrin bushing for the proper amount of back and forth play.
Clinesmith consoles D-8/6 5 pedal, D-8 3 pedal & A25 Frypan, Pettingill Teardrop, & P8 Deluxe.
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- Posts: 412
- Joined: 2 Apr 2011 8:14 am
- Location: Queensland, Australia - R.I.P.
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I guess you need to do the process of elimination.
It is either the string (try a new one) - could be slipping at the tuner or unwinding at the
collet end or a nut roller problem (if your model has them).
or the mechanics (go through each stage)
Is the tuning adjuster nut stripped - the nylon nut at the bridge mechanism where you adjust it. These threads on the rods are 'rolled' threads' like bicycle spokes so they don't have much depth.There is a spacer in front of these nuts too check it is OK
Is the return spring adjusted correctly/tight enough on that change
Is the changer working freely - may need a tad of lube
Are any of the pull rods binding or the brass rod ends in the crank/s
Check the grub screw in the brass rod end (tight)
Are the cranks tight on the cross shaft
Is there correct clearance at the bearing ends on the cross shaft to allow free movement and an Ultra should/might have a centre bearing on the cross shaft that needs checking
I know there is supposed to be no lube needed but some of the joints do benefit from a small amount IMHO
Check the upper pedal rod/crank shaft return stop adjuster - the lock nut could be loose.
That's pretty much the whole train.
I have had no probs with my GFI but I do go through it regularly and they are very reliable underneath. Got used to doing it with the various older 'beasts' I have owned I guess.
It is either the string (try a new one) - could be slipping at the tuner or unwinding at the
collet end or a nut roller problem (if your model has them).
or the mechanics (go through each stage)
Is the tuning adjuster nut stripped - the nylon nut at the bridge mechanism where you adjust it. These threads on the rods are 'rolled' threads' like bicycle spokes so they don't have much depth.There is a spacer in front of these nuts too check it is OK
Is the return spring adjusted correctly/tight enough on that change
Is the changer working freely - may need a tad of lube
Are any of the pull rods binding or the brass rod ends in the crank/s
Check the grub screw in the brass rod end (tight)
Are the cranks tight on the cross shaft
Is there correct clearance at the bearing ends on the cross shaft to allow free movement and an Ultra should/might have a centre bearing on the cross shaft that needs checking
I know there is supposed to be no lube needed but some of the joints do benefit from a small amount IMHO
Check the upper pedal rod/crank shaft return stop adjuster - the lock nut could be loose.
That's pretty much the whole train.
I have had no probs with my GFI but I do go through it regularly and they are very reliable underneath. Got used to doing it with the various older 'beasts' I have owned I guess.
Priebs GFI ('09)Short-Uni10. GFI ('96)Short-Uni SD11. ('86)JEM U12
www.steelguitardownunder.com
www.steelguitardownunder.com
- Chuck Roach
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 24 Mar 2010 12:37 pm
- Location: Missouri, USA
- Dave Simonis
- Posts: 363
- Joined: 1 Feb 2009 7:32 pm
- Location: Stevens Point, WI USA
Chuck, I recently picked up a GFI Ultra SD-10...and was having the same issue - same string, even after I changed strings. I found the problem to be wear on the brass bushing going through the hole on the bellcrank, attached to rod. Sometimes it would rotate fully, other times it would stick a bit - depending if the brass bushing was one-way-or-the-other in the bellcrank hole (flange was against bellcrank, or rod was against bell-crank). I took out brass-bushing and noticed it was worn. I turned it upside down and it fixed solution. I think long term fix is a new part...but working great now. I saw a thread where Carter guitars had wear on their brass bushings too...just the nature of a softer metal I assume.
Dave Simonis
Fiddle: Zeta, Arthur Conner, many others.../Steel: GFI SD-10 Ultra.../Mandolin: Breedlove.../Guitar: Gibson, Fender, Taylor.../Amps: Peavey NV112, Evans FET 500.../Others: Hilton, Goodrich, Stereo Steel, Pendulum Pre-amp...
Fiddle: Zeta, Arthur Conner, many others.../Steel: GFI SD-10 Ultra.../Mandolin: Breedlove.../Guitar: Gibson, Fender, Taylor.../Amps: Peavey NV112, Evans FET 500.../Others: Hilton, Goodrich, Stereo Steel, Pendulum Pre-amp...
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- Posts: 412
- Joined: 2 Apr 2011 8:14 am
- Location: Queensland, Australia - R.I.P.
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Dave
It is probably worth mentioning that brass comes in a lot of forms/mixtures. Sintered (porous) brass bushings are supposedly pre-lubed and not in need of lube but it just doesn't last for ever.
Brass, when lubricated, seldom wears (off - as a disappearing powder) it generally peens (changes shape from percussive forces). It is amazing stuff but not bullet proof. I know GFI say no lube needed but I still favour a small amount of oil (I use ATF) after years of coping with brass bushings in motorcyles.
I can't quite understand which "bellcranks" you are talking about but agree with your point. There would have to be quite a bit of percussive force adding up along the mechanical train when we keep slamming the pedals down but that shouldn't be the case in the rollers on the nut (as Chuck mentioned) - problem there is they never rotate, they just move such a small amount (the GFI keyless have no rollers - don't need them) it is difficult to keep any lube in there.
It is probably worth mentioning that brass comes in a lot of forms/mixtures. Sintered (porous) brass bushings are supposedly pre-lubed and not in need of lube but it just doesn't last for ever.
Brass, when lubricated, seldom wears (off - as a disappearing powder) it generally peens (changes shape from percussive forces). It is amazing stuff but not bullet proof. I know GFI say no lube needed but I still favour a small amount of oil (I use ATF) after years of coping with brass bushings in motorcyles.
I can't quite understand which "bellcranks" you are talking about but agree with your point. There would have to be quite a bit of percussive force adding up along the mechanical train when we keep slamming the pedals down but that shouldn't be the case in the rollers on the nut (as Chuck mentioned) - problem there is they never rotate, they just move such a small amount (the GFI keyless have no rollers - don't need them) it is difficult to keep any lube in there.
Priebs GFI ('09)Short-Uni10. GFI ('96)Short-Uni SD11. ('86)JEM U12
www.steelguitardownunder.com
www.steelguitardownunder.com
- Dave Simonis
- Posts: 363
- Joined: 1 Feb 2009 7:32 pm
- Location: Stevens Point, WI USA
Jim, this is underneath the guitar. The brass part I am talking of holds the rod to the bellcrank on the pedal shaft. I believe it was causing some binding and my string was staying a bit sharp. I would compensate and retune. Then - I believe when part would be free and unbind while playing. My string would return "lower" due to my compensation and appear to have gone flat. It seemed to stay in the bound position more...so to me it seemed like going flat was more of the issue...when in reality, that was where it should be. The guitar is 11 years old and I am the 3rd owner but I have only had it a short while. It's a keeper as I love everything about it.
Lastly...as I read time and time again on the forum...GFI is excellent on customer service and Bob has been most gracious in answering all my questions.
Lastly...as I read time and time again on the forum...GFI is excellent on customer service and Bob has been most gracious in answering all my questions.
Dave Simonis
Fiddle: Zeta, Arthur Conner, many others.../Steel: GFI SD-10 Ultra.../Mandolin: Breedlove.../Guitar: Gibson, Fender, Taylor.../Amps: Peavey NV112, Evans FET 500.../Others: Hilton, Goodrich, Stereo Steel, Pendulum Pre-amp...
Fiddle: Zeta, Arthur Conner, many others.../Steel: GFI SD-10 Ultra.../Mandolin: Breedlove.../Guitar: Gibson, Fender, Taylor.../Amps: Peavey NV112, Evans FET 500.../Others: Hilton, Goodrich, Stereo Steel, Pendulum Pre-amp...
- Chuck Roach
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 24 Mar 2010 12:37 pm
- Location: Missouri, USA
Thank you Dave and Jim for your input. I did fail to post that I did take the brass bushing out of the #10 string rod and than took the rod all the way out and cleaned it and the bushing. So I really don't know what the cause of my problem was, but I used the guitar for two four hour jobs over the weekend and it performed flawlessly. I two am very happy with my GFI and the way it stays in tune. I have a little trouble getting the tone I am use to with my Sho Bud, especially in the mid range area. I also agree with the excellent customer service. Bob has always sent me anything I have needed free of charge and when I first bought the steel he swapped the legs that I had for some longer ones and paid for the shipping. Excellent and fast customer service. In closing it sure is a lot lighter than my Sho Bud!!!
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- Posts: 412
- Joined: 2 Apr 2011 8:14 am
- Location: Queensland, Australia - R.I.P.
- Contact:
Chuck
Good to hear you solved your probs. Re. tone - I come from sho buds and I have a JEM (Aussie steel which is pretty similar to some sho buds) and I changed to an Alumitone Pup. I originally had a GFI 111 pup on it but it was too treble for me although I could out sharp my son's Tele with it.
The good news is you'll never be happy with your tone if you are a good musician!!!! It's just a work in progress.
GFI's are great simple reliable guitars. They are not over engineered and you don't pay extra for fancy looks or wood - they just work well, don't break strings and anyone who knocks them hasn't played them enough to appreciate their pluses. Their sustain is second to none - my biggest adjustment when I got mine was coping with the sustain. I had to actually stop strings sounding!
I still see steels with their cross shaft bearings just sitting in a sleeve in the wood - wow! no names mentioned.
Good to hear you solved your probs. Re. tone - I come from sho buds and I have a JEM (Aussie steel which is pretty similar to some sho buds) and I changed to an Alumitone Pup. I originally had a GFI 111 pup on it but it was too treble for me although I could out sharp my son's Tele with it.
The good news is you'll never be happy with your tone if you are a good musician!!!! It's just a work in progress.
GFI's are great simple reliable guitars. They are not over engineered and you don't pay extra for fancy looks or wood - they just work well, don't break strings and anyone who knocks them hasn't played them enough to appreciate their pluses. Their sustain is second to none - my biggest adjustment when I got mine was coping with the sustain. I had to actually stop strings sounding!
I still see steels with their cross shaft bearings just sitting in a sleeve in the wood - wow! no names mentioned.
Priebs GFI ('09)Short-Uni10. GFI ('96)Short-Uni SD11. ('86)JEM U12
www.steelguitardownunder.com
www.steelguitardownunder.com