1935 Rickenbacher B6

David Hayes · Post by **David Hayes** » 23 May 2013 5:11 pm

So I have a friend that has the pictured set up. Seems to be an early B6 without the tone knob. Are they more or less valuable than the ones with the tone knobs? Are they just for collectors or are they good players without the tone knob. I know I can add an EQ before the amp to get the effect of a tone knob but wonder if that neuters the Ric tone. Any other thoughts on this appreciated.

Mike Neer · Post by **Mike Neer** » 23 May 2013 5:21 pm

This is one of the earliest B6s. I had an early Frying Pan with no tone knob and it was great just as it was. Turning down the volume a bit also has the effect of trimming some of the brightness.

What a great guitar and amp set--one of the best!

Ray Montee · Post by **Ray Montee** » 23 May 2013 6:30 pm

Of my 12 Ric's......... two of my seven strings have just one volume knob, several of the six string models have just one knob while the three Panda's all of two knobs.

I find the prewar models all to have exceptionally fine TONE whether or not they have just the single volume knob or not.

I think the strings thro' the body and the wider pickup are the real determining factors.

David Hayes · Post by **David Hayes** » 24 May 2013 1:47 pm

Thanks for the responses - any thought on the value$$$

Ray Montee · Post by **Ray Montee** » 24 May 2013 4:25 pm

Before I'd agree to purchase, I'd double check to make sure there are no visible cracks near the NUT next to the headstock, OR, at the 10th fret. The Bakelite has a tendency to break at those points if/when dropped.

If all is okay and the unit is cosmetically CLEAN and free of any scratches or the like...... and each and every string is amplified properly........

I wouldn't be afraid to invest $850.00 +/- for the g'tar with case. The amp should be negotiated by you. I wouldn't be interested in going more than $150.00 for the amp, provided it worked and didn't rattle or static or FUZZ.

Bill Creller · Post by **Bill Creller** » 28 May 2013 7:00 pm

That guitar & amp combo on Ebay would bring a fairly good price, just for single control dating it. 1935 was the first year for the bakelite from what I've found out. The serial number usually starts with a C on those early guitars...

Alan Berdoulay · Post by **Alan Berdoulay** » 29 May 2013 6:46 am

'twas love at first sight

Ray Montee · Post by **Ray Montee** » 29 May 2013 9:50 am

As it has been with all of us Ricky owners.......

Once you've had the experience......
you'll NEVER go back to anything less.

Jim Newberry · Post by **Jim Newberry** » 29 May 2013 12:01 pm

I'd give my left arm for a pre-war B6... Both arms for a B7... But then... I think it'd be a little tough to play.

Norman Markowitz · Post by **Norman Markowitz** » 29 May 2013 2:30 pm

Jim Newberry wrote:I'd give my left arm for a pre-war B6... Both arms for a B7... But then... I think it'd be a little tough to play.

Not a problem for Frank Posey

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFSFhVSlm9g

Andy Volk · Post by **Andy Volk** » 30 May 2013 4:05 am

Good sounding demo of a postwar B-6 ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7M7ZBdY ... r_embedded#!

David Hayes · Post by **David Hayes** » 2 Jun 2013 5:32 pm

The serial number starts with a C and is in the mid 600s does that mean it is first year - 600th an something one made?

John Dahms · Post by **John Dahms** » 3 Jun 2013 2:35 am

"The serial number starts with a C and is in the mid 600s does that mean it is first year - 600th an something one made?"Barring the discovery of some new factory records or information it is a safe asumtion that this is a 1935 model. There were a number produced in the beginning of the run with "B" serial numbers however so it is not likely the 600th one produced.
It is THE ONE so that's what counts.

The Steel Guitar Forum

1935 Rickenbacher B6

1935 Rickenbacher B6

About those Ric's....................

Early Rickenbacher steel guitar..................

A word to Alan...............