I have an 8 string Morrell (this one: http://www.morrellmusic.com/p-10112-jmp ... -blue.aspx) that I have tuned to C6.
I recently pulled it out for a project I am working on and noticed that it was playing weird. If I held the bar over the fret, as in every other steel I have, the intonation was off; I had to play it in between the frets, which is not right. I replaced the strings, which instantly fixed this problem, and started using it in rehearsals. Sounded great, no more issues.
Until last night, at a gig, I noticed that it was doing this again. I had to adjust my playing for two hours to be in between the frets for the intonation to be right. I am guessing I will have to re-string again, less than a month since the last time.
Has anyone had this problem before? I haven't with any other instruments, just this one.
Weird problem with Morrell 8-string
Moderator: Brad Bechtel
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I haven't heard of a problem like this being endemic to the Morrell lap steels. Check your nut and bridge to see if they are loose.
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- Stephen Cowell
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Either the strings are dirty or the bridge is cutting the windings around the string... the bridge is extremely sharp... perhaps it could be rounded off with a file or emery paper.
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- Steve Ahola
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This is a common problem with that line of Morrell 8 stringers because the fretboard is silk-screened onto the body by hand and it can come out crooked. If it is off too much they sell them as 2nds.
You can measure the distance from the nut to the 12th fret and compare that to the distance from the 12th fret to the bridge. If it is off a lot you might consider upgrading the cheap plastic nut with one fabricated from angle iron.*** You can move that up or down until the 12th fret is exactly halfway between the nut and the bridge.
If you don't want to change the nut you could move the bridge a little bit. I'd fill the existing holes with oak dowels and redrill new one.
Steve Ahola
P.S. I usually can't see the fret under my bar because my hand is in the way. I do get concerned if I have to the hold the bar at angle for it to be in tune. I was noticing that on several of my steels until I figured out that my ceramic steel was the problem (it wasn't a true cylinder.)
P.P.S. BTW do you have a problem with the 7 string Kent Armstrong lipstick pickup they use? On mine I have to decide whether I want the 1st or 8th string to be weaker than the other strings. Or I guess I could split the difference. One SGF member said that a Fender Stringmaster pickup fit perfectly on the control plate on his Morrell 8 string
*** I bought two angle iron nuts from Dom Franco in 2010- you might want to check to see if he still fabricates them (it is a very worthwhile upgrade for the Morrells.)
You can measure the distance from the nut to the 12th fret and compare that to the distance from the 12th fret to the bridge. If it is off a lot you might consider upgrading the cheap plastic nut with one fabricated from angle iron.*** You can move that up or down until the 12th fret is exactly halfway between the nut and the bridge.
If you don't want to change the nut you could move the bridge a little bit. I'd fill the existing holes with oak dowels and redrill new one.
Steve Ahola
P.S. I usually can't see the fret under my bar because my hand is in the way. I do get concerned if I have to the hold the bar at angle for it to be in tune. I was noticing that on several of my steels until I figured out that my ceramic steel was the problem (it wasn't a true cylinder.)
P.P.S. BTW do you have a problem with the 7 string Kent Armstrong lipstick pickup they use? On mine I have to decide whether I want the 1st or 8th string to be weaker than the other strings. Or I guess I could split the difference. One SGF member said that a Fender Stringmaster pickup fit perfectly on the control plate on his Morrell 8 string
*** I bought two angle iron nuts from Dom Franco in 2010- you might want to check to see if he still fabricates them (it is a very worthwhile upgrade for the Morrells.)
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