Pedal steel naming conventions

Patrick Wall · Post by **Patrick Wall** » 7 Feb 2013 7:36 pm

Can someone give a rundown of steel types? What is a d-10 vs an s-10 or sd-10 etc. Just curious, and like mny other things pedal steel it isn't immediately obvious to me

Dave Grafe · Post by **Dave Grafe** » 7 Feb 2013 8:07 pm

A D-10 is a double neck guitar with 10 strings on each neck, usually - but not always - E9 tuning up front and C6 behind. But not always

An S-10 is a single neck 10 string guitar, which may or may not have the E9 setup; I have seen a number of these that were built as C6 guitars, and of course many players set them up with their own favorite copedant.

An SD-10 is a single neck 10 string on a double body, usually with a wrist pad where the back neck would be. Some of these came from the factory that way, others were modified by their owners from D-10 guitars.

An S-12 is a single neck guitar with 12 strings, a D11 a double neck with 11 strings on each, and so on....

Douglas Schuch · Post by **Douglas Schuch** » 7 Feb 2013 11:15 pm

One other "type" - a U-12, short for Universal 12 string. The U is not referring to body type, but to the ability to play all or most of what a D-10 can on a single neck (and thus, they typically have a minimum of 7 pedals, and often more). They are most often, I believe, built with a slightly wider body than an S-10, and sometimes are on a double-width body, like an SD-10.

There are 14 string instruments as well - not very common. The ones I've seen discussed are basically a U-12 with one string higher than the others, and a bass that is lower than the others.

Doug

Patrick Wall · Post by **Patrick Wall** » 8 Feb 2013 9:35 am

Excellent response. Thanks guys.

Bo Legg · Post by **Bo Legg** » 8 Feb 2013 11:28 am

Then of course we have the 13 string gospel.

Mark van Allen · Post by **Mark van Allen** » 8 Feb 2013 1:46 pm

Yes, there are 13 string models used by some of the Sacred Steel guys, and a few other variants as well. For instance, Jimmy Crawford built a double neck for Buddy Emmons with one 11 string neck and one 10, (and obsessed about getting the pegheads to look symmetrical!)

Most of the more modern guitars can be re-rodded and altered to have about any tuning on either neck, but some, like earlier S10s built for C6 or A6 tuning with 6 or 7 pedals and no or one knee lever, are really most suitable for a 6th tuning and less so for the modern E9. It fascinates me that although the D10 is probably considered the standardized norm for professional players, there are so many S and SD10s around ( I have two myself) and so many other variations, lending some support to the position that the instrument is still in a formative stage. I think it's more a case of a relatively adaptive technology that can be altered to support individual expression and creative vision, cool.

Dave Grafe · Post by **Dave Grafe** » 8 Feb 2013 3:34 pm

Yep, I was quite remiss in neglecting to explain the "U" nomenclature, Patrick, but "U" can get quite a lot of stings on a "U" type guitar, I have heard that Lee Wheeler made at least one U-17, as well as a left handed D14...

Patrick Wall · Post by **Patrick Wall** » 8 Feb 2013 4:26 pm

A truly fascinating instrument. I'm looking forward to upgrading to a new steel in the next month, and I've been particularly interested in a D10 to get some experience in c6th. One of my criteria, though not the main one, is to have a steel that will allow me to alter my copedent if I wanted to. Is there a particular style of guitar that lends itself to customization or will any relatively modern steel allow this

Ken Metcalf · Post by **Ken Metcalf** » 8 Feb 2013 5:29 pm

Before you give up on a single ten (S-10) be sure to check out some of the swinging on E9th courses.
There are 6th tunings all over the E9th.
Herb Steiner has some good ones.
Mickey Adams video.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pD_91pec6aY

Lane Gray · Post by **Lane Gray** » 11 Feb 2013 3:52 am

Patrick, as to easy modification, it's really hard to beat the old MSA classics. The only thing that's a pain is adding bellcranks to a shaft, since they used round shafts. That means removing the apron cover and sliding a shaft out. Since they used straight rods held in a collar by a set screw, a pull rod may get used on another shaft easily (most modern models use a hook bend at the bellcranks or a roll pin through the rod: both a little inconvenient if you're only armed with wrenches, Allen keys and pliers). Their downside: they have a slightly heavier pedal action than modern axes.