I did do some searching, but the proper way - apply a layer of contact cement to both items, let it dry then lay down the mica - is for building from the ground up. I need to squirt or cram something in there.
Re-gluing detached mica?
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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David Mason
- Posts: 6072
- Joined: 6 Oct 2001 12:01 am
- Location: Cambridge, MD, USA
Re-gluing detached mica?
This is actually a non-pedal, but more people read here and it's the same issue. The mica has lifted in a couple of places. You can slide a piece of paper in there, but not anything thicker like a credit card. What was the original glue used to hold the mica on? Somehow, superglue sounds like a bad idea... but it needs to be thin enough to get in there. I certainly don't want to disassemble the whole thing. It gets really humid here in the summers, so this is a bit more important than just cosmetics.
I did do some searching, but the proper way - apply a layer of contact cement to both items, let it dry then lay down the mica - is for building from the ground up. I need to squirt or cram something in there.
I did do some searching, but the proper way - apply a layer of contact cement to both items, let it dry then lay down the mica - is for building from the ground up. I need to squirt or cram something in there.
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Douglas Schuch
- Posts: 1390
- Joined: 10 Jun 2011 9:33 am
- Location: Valencia, Philippines
David, I am no PSG expert, but I've dealt with lots of laminate issues in other areas, and I think it is pretty much the same thing. You use a heat-gun and a putty knife to loosen the area that has detatched just enough to allow you to get glue in the joint. Use the putty knife to spread the glue (contact cement) in a thin, even layer. Allow the glue to get tacky. Apply pressure.
This method works so long as the laminate was put on with contact cement, and I believe that is standard.
Doug
This method works so long as the laminate was put on with contact cement, and I believe that is standard.
Doug
Pedal steel, lap steel, resonator, blues harp - why suck at just one instrument when you can do so on many?
I've never tried regluing mica, but I have extensive experience repairing items made with contact cement (see www.dagorhir.com for my dork battles).
The only way to effect a lasting repair is by disassembly and reassembly.
You *can* drizzle some contact cement in the gap, clamp and let dry for 3 days. But the bond is so inferior that it failed within a week. OTOH, it might last in your application, just don't hit anybody.
The only way to effect a lasting repair is by disassembly and reassembly.
You *can* drizzle some contact cement in the gap, clamp and let dry for 3 days. But the bond is so inferior that it failed within a week. OTOH, it might last in your application, just don't hit anybody.
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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MARK GILES
- Posts: 208
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- Location: HAMILTON, TEXAS
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David, Super glue is a good idea. It is what I have used many times to fix the very thing you described. Put a few drops between mica and the wood, press and hold down the mica for 30 to 60 seconds(depending on ambient temperature) and you're done. But, have a soft cloth dampened with acetone at the ready to wipe off any excess or run-out glue before it dries on the show side of the mica.
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Tony Glassman
- Posts: 4470
- Joined: 18 Jan 2005 1:01 am
- Location: The Great Northwest
What about double-sided tap?. I just fixed a couple of fretboards that were coming up on the end. Slid the tape in between and clamped the pieces together. Worked well and ithe repair is undetectable..
Super glue applied via a syringe and needle under the free edge works well too. It allows you to get into the space without having to peel back the laminate very far. Gotta be quick though .
Super glue applied via a syringe and needle under the free edge works well too. It allows you to get into the space without having to peel back the laminate very far. Gotta be quick though .