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Topic: MSA CLASSIC D-10 Question on RKL. |
Lee Dassow
From:
Jefferson, Georgia USA
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 10:36 am |
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I want to do four changes on RKL involving both necks E9th and C6th. I've already got three, Two on
E9th and One on C6th. On E9th I'm presently raising
1 and 7 a half tone. I want to change no.1 F# to G# no.2 Eb to E,and no. 6 G# to F#. On C6th no.3 C already goes to B. I'm just not sure if those four changes will make RKL to stiff.I've already recieved parts from michael yawl, Who I Might add is excellent to deal with. On C6th I've already added the no.1 string change, a half tone raise to G# on the 5th floor lever. Anybody with this set up, or any advice on a MSA classic D-10 let me know. THANKS LEE
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2015 Mullen D-10 Royal Precision 9x8,-1990 BMI S-10 5x5-1972 Silver face Fender pro Reverb amp,-1965 Fender Super Reverb Amp,- 1966 Fender Showman Amp Two 15" JBL speakers,- 2006 65 Fender Twin Reverb reissue Amp,- 1982 Peavey Session 500 amp,-1978 Peavey Session 400,Goodrich Volume Pedals,John Pearse Steel Bars, |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 11:54 am
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It shouldn't be too bad, especially if you make the pulls as slow as possible (using the bellcrank holes closest to the axle, and changer holes farthest from the changer axles)
You can make the raises even slower with his pull-shifting gizmos (allowing you to use the top lowering holes for raises), but you'd need extra rods too (you wouldn't pull them, just needed for location)
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Lee Dassow
From:
Jefferson, Georgia USA
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 3:31 pm MSA CLASSIC D-10 Question on RKL.
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LANE; Pull shifting gizmo's? You lost me. Is that
something that Michael makes? Might make it heavier. Thing weigh's a ton already. IMHO I believe that's why some of the older players are saying goodbye to these double necks MSA's. LEE
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2015 Mullen D-10 Royal Precision 9x8,-1990 BMI S-10 5x5-1972 Silver face Fender pro Reverb amp,-1965 Fender Super Reverb Amp,- 1966 Fender Showman Amp Two 15" JBL speakers,- 2006 65 Fender Twin Reverb reissue Amp,- 1982 Peavey Session 500 amp,-1978 Peavey Session 400,Goodrich Volume Pedals,John Pearse Steel Bars, |
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Dave O'Brien
From:
Florida and New Jersey
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 5:26 pm 4 pulls
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IMHO 4 pulls is too much to be comfotable.
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Dave O'Brien
Emmons D-10, CMI D-10, Fender Deluxe Reverb, PV 112, Fender Pro Reverb
www.myspace.com/daveobrienband |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 5:28 pm
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It's a small L-shaped block of aluminum. lt allows you to have three raises or lowers.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Lee Dassow
From:
Jefferson, Georgia USA
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 6:39 pm MSA CLASSIC D-10 Question on RKL.
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I think I'll leave it the way it is, Thanks LEE
_________________
2015 Mullen D-10 Royal Precision 9x8,-1990 BMI S-10 5x5-1972 Silver face Fender pro Reverb amp,-1965 Fender Super Reverb Amp,- 1966 Fender Showman Amp Two 15" JBL speakers,- 2006 65 Fender Twin Reverb reissue Amp,- 1982 Peavey Session 500 amp,-1978 Peavey Session 400,Goodrich Volume Pedals,John Pearse Steel Bars, |
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Mike Perlowin
From:
Los Angeles CA
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 9:03 pm
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Tom Bradshaw's raise/lower conversion inserts (which is what I assume Michael Yahl is making) are a major pain in the butt to install, but once in, they work perfectly, and never need any kind of maintenance. And they weigh almost nothing. Probably less than an ounce. In my opinion, everybody who owns an MSA classic or similar double raise double lower guitar should put one on the 5th string, so you would have 3 raises, and then use the 3rd raise to get a tunable split.
If you move the lever itself closer to the front apron you will have more leverage to use to activate it. It will require more motion, and feel like a longer throw, but it won't require as much strength.
_________________
Please visit my web site and Soundcloud page and listen to the music posted there.
http://www.mikeperlowin.com http://soundcloud.com/mike-perlowin |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 10:10 pm
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Yes, Mike. It's the Bradshaw Block. It just now occurred to me to use one to slow down a pull.
Michael Yahl is selling 'em.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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John Davis
From:
Cambridge, U.K.
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Posted 22 Dec 2012 2:39 am
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 Some pics would be good Mike read your last post 3 times... still trying to understand..... just cannot convert the info into knowledge... guess I need new brain....   |
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Quentin Hickey
From:
Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted 22 Dec 2012 4:40 am
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| Those triple conversion blocks are easy to make. You just need a peice of 5/16 x 1 1/4 aluminum rod if I remember correctly and a bench top drill press with a 3/16 drill bit, a way to clamp you're work peice to the drill bed and a hacksaw and file. than you will need to cut one of youre rod sleeve to compensate for the block taking room in behind the. the changer finger. Isn't this explained in one of the pedal steel guitar monthly magazines? |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Mike Perlowin
From:
Los Angeles CA
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Posted 22 Dec 2012 6:31 am
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John, what they do is convert a lower to a raise (or vice versa) so that a double raise double lower changer becomes a triple raise single lower (Or single raise triple lower if you wish) on whichever strings they are installed.
One in place they are completely trouble free.
However as I mentioned, they are extremely difficult to install. If you're not mechanically inclined, I suggest having a qualifies steel guitar technician install them.
If you're playing a 10 string, you only need one, on the 5th string, so you can get a tunable split. You need a 2nd one if you play a U-12. The guitar shown in my avatar had 3 of them. The 3rd one converted the raise to a lower on my low E string. I had 3 raises in strings 5 and 6, and 3 lowers on string 11.
I used these for at least 20 years, and they always worked perfectly.
_________________
Please visit my web site and Soundcloud page and listen to the music posted there.
http://www.mikeperlowin.com http://soundcloud.com/mike-perlowin |
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Lee Dassow
From:
Jefferson, Georgia USA
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Posted 22 Dec 2012 8:57 am MSA CLASSIC D-10 Question on RKL.
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Thanks for clarify'ing that. LEE
_________________
2015 Mullen D-10 Royal Precision 9x8,-1990 BMI S-10 5x5-1972 Silver face Fender pro Reverb amp,-1965 Fender Super Reverb Amp,- 1966 Fender Showman Amp Two 15" JBL speakers,- 2006 65 Fender Twin Reverb reissue Amp,- 1982 Peavey Session 500 amp,-1978 Peavey Session 400,Goodrich Volume Pedals,John Pearse Steel Bars, |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 25 Dec 2012 7:28 am
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| Lee, I have a couple changes set up for 4 pulls, on both levers and pedals. Yes, they're stiffer than those with fewer pulls, but I don't find that to be a problem. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 25 Dec 2012 8:51 am
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| Mike Perlowin wrote: |
John, what they do is convert a lower to a raise (or vice versa) so that a double raise double lower changer becomes a triple raise single lower (Or single raise triple lower if you wish) on whichever strings they are installed.
One in place they are completely trouble free.
However as I mentioned, they are extremely difficult to install. If you're not mechanically inclined, I suggest having a qualifies steel guitar technician install them.
If you're playing a 10 string, you only need one, on the 5th string, so you can get a tunable split....
I used these for at least 20 years, and they always worked perfectly. |
Mike, those who drop 6 would want a second one so we can have both F# and G.
And one could use them to slow down a pull, by using the upper lowering hole instead of the bottom raise hole. I've never seen it done, but it wouldn't be difficult.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Mike Perlowin
From:
Los Angeles CA
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Posted 25 Dec 2012 11:12 am
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| Lane Gray wrote: |
Mike, those who drop 6 would want a second one so we can have both F# and G.
And one could use them to slow down a pull, by using the upper lowering hole instead of the bottom raise hole. I've never seen it done, but it wouldn't be difficult. |
Lane, you would want a 2nd rod, for that purpose, but you already have 2 raises on the changer and are only using one of them. Why would you need to convert one of the lowers?
Am I missing something here?
_________________
Please visit my web site and Soundcloud page and listen to the music posted there.
http://www.mikeperlowin.com http://soundcloud.com/mike-perlowin |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 25 Dec 2012 4:05 pm
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Mike, the farther you get from the changer axle, the greater the mechanical advantage, or the easier the pull.
So if you convert the first lower to a third raise, and do that for both the raises, you might not add too much effort.
In other words, use it solely for leverage.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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