How to Stretch Strings

Pat Carlson · Post by **Pat Carlson** » 26 Nov 2002 7:15 pm

How should one stretch the strings prior to installing them? Finally got brave enough to change them the first time.Had much difficulty to keep in tune after changing them.

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Sho~Bud LDG
[This message was edited by Patrick Carlson on 26 November 2002 at 07:18 PM.]

Bob Blair · Post by **Bob Blair** » 26 Nov 2002 9:23 pm

I have never stretched strings before installing them, on steel or any other guitar, and I can't imagine how or why you would. For the strings that stretch a lot at first, I will put some extra tension on them after installation by pushing down with my finger on the string, or pulling the string up a bit, and then tuning it back up to pitch. Then play for a few minutes, and re-tune and that about does it.

chas smith · Post by **chas smith** » 26 Nov 2002 9:28 pm

I pull up with either a fingernail or a plastic pick and I run it up and down the length of the string, then I pull it back into tune and press the pedal a bunch of times.

Dave Van Allen · Post by **Dave Van Allen** » 27 Nov 2002 5:56 am

I put the string on the guitar, and tune it almost to pitch; then I gently lift the string up from the neck and let it back down, tune it again; repeat this a couple of time and tune yet again.
if the string is moved by a pedal or lever I wil alternate stretching the string with my hand and actuating the pedal/lever then retuning.

sometimes I get a little rowdy and pull a string off... if that happens I lay off the coffee

Whip Lashaway · Post by **Whip Lashaway** » 27 Nov 2002 7:06 am

After replacing all the strings I grab them in groups of 4 at about 1/3 of the way in from both ends and squeeze them till they touch. In other words, take both hands, left hand at about the 6 or 7th fret and right hand at about 18 or 19th fret. Grab strings 1 and 4 and pinch them together. Then 2 and 5, then 3 and 6, etc through all of the strings. Retune and repeat until you can do this without effecting the tuning. Usually about 3 times. Then tune your pedal/levers and it won't take your open tuning out. Works for me. I use even tension though.
Whip

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Whip Lashaway
Sierra E9/B6 12 string
Sierra E9/B6 14 string

Donny Hinson · Post by **Donny Hinson** » 27 Nov 2002 8:51 am

I grab each one at the 12th fret and pull it up about 1/2" while "wiggling" it. Then I hit the pedal (if there's a pedal on that string) 5-10 times rapidly, and then repeat that one more time. Remember to press down on the strings with your finger both right in front of, and right behind, the nut. This helps "seat" them (to give them the "bend") in the roller groove.

Tony Orth · Post by **Tony Orth** » 27 Nov 2002 11:18 am

Patrick,

As you can see, we all stretch our strings after we have installed them. Everyone seems to have their own "ritual" in doing it.

I do a combination of the Bob and Dave things. Then, I like to play for an hour or so on the new strings before a gig. It helps to set them in and soften some of the overtones.

Best Wishes
Tony

Chuck McGill · Post by **Chuck McGill** » 27 Nov 2002 12:42 pm

According to someone much smarter than I(that
would not be hard to find)the laws of mechanics state that metal does not stretch
unless heated to break it down. So this being
true then we are dealing with a string that
has not seated properly. So to get your strings to seat you should make shure not to
wrap them more than twice around the tuner
post and get as much slack out of the wrap on the post with pliers being careful not to damage the wrapped strings.Also make shure the ball is in it's resting place correctly.
If you attempt to stretch a wound string there is a good chance the windings will seperate and that string can do
wierd things. I'm open to comments but this
is what I was taught.[This message was edited by Chuck McGill on 27 November 2002 at 12:47 PM.]

Jeff Lampert · Post by **Jeff Lampert** » 27 Nov 2002 2:25 pm

I change my E9 strings on average once every 10 days, more often if I play out a lot. I have no patience for making a production out of this. They are on in 15 minutes or less (including removing the old ones), brought up to pitch, and broken in within 15 minutes of playing, either in my house or setting up at a gig. There is no need to stretch the strings. It makes little difference, something I discovered after years of doing it. The best way, IMO, to "stretch out" the strings is to just play the instrument for 15-20 minutes after you put them on. You gotta do that anyway, even if you do stretch them. As you play them, check the tuning every couple of minutes and adjust as necessary. After 15-20 minutes, you'll be fine.[This message was edited by Jeff Lampert on 27 November 2002 at 02:31 PM.]

John Hawkins · Post by **John Hawkins** » 27 Nov 2002 3:24 pm

Patrick,

Everyone who has answered your post has given very good advise and knowledge .

I want to add one additional step you should always consider .

Make SURE that when you end up with any of the string wrapes that the string comes off the roller bridge in a very straight line to the tuning post. That may require you to wrap the string toward the end of the tuning post rather than toward the other end .It may cause you to use more wraps than you have been use to using but you will be pleased to realize that the straighter the string comes off the roller bridge to the tuning post , the more "distance" in string life you will most likely have ( especially no. .011 guage) and the easier it makes your pedal action .

This is my added 2 cents worth to all the very good advise you have already received .

Is this a great place to learn or what ???
Thanks b0b !!!!
John

Donny Hinson · Post by **Donny Hinson** » 27 Nov 2002 4:32 pm

Chuck...don't know who told you that! Evidently, they didn't know that metal heats (though usually insignificantly) whenever it stretches, bends, or is compressed. That heat's caused by molecular friction. Therefore...you could say that metal doesn't stretch without heating...but that's not quite the same thing as saying "metal does not stretch unless heated".

We pedal steelers are constant witness to that "stretching" (as well as "unstretching") every time we raise (or lower) a string. In fact, you don't need fancy equipment or a college education to verify that...you can see it with the naked eye!

If the strings didn't stretch when we applied tension, one of two things would happen....either the pedals wouldn't move, or the strings would simply break every time we pressed a pedal. We all know that's not the case.

chas smith · Post by **chas smith** » 27 Nov 2002 4:36 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>According to someone much smarter than I(that
would not be hard to find)the laws of mechanics state that metal does not stretch unless heated to break it down<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Not true, the act of stretching the string to bring it into tune is in fact stretching it. It's the same thing as torqueing the head bolts on your engine. The bolt is being stretched creating a spring-loaded tension of so many pounds per square inch of pressure on that point of the head. When you release the tension (torque in the other direction) the bolt returns to it's original dimension. When you detune the string, it returns to its original dimension (length).

There is a point where the bolt and the string can't take any more stress and return to their original shapes, (modulus of elasticity) and they stay stretched out or snap.

Another example: the leaf springs on your truck, every time it bends, the outside edge stretches and the inside edge compresses.

Pat Carlson · Post by **Pat Carlson** » 27 Nov 2002 9:09 pm

Thanks guys for all the useful suggestions. I'm sure next time I will have a better idea what to do when I put the strings on.

Sho~Bud LDG

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Patrick Carlson

Bob Hoffnar · Post by **Bob Hoffnar** » 27 Nov 2002 10:12 pm

My string changing ritual involves not stretching the strings with my hands at all. There is already so much tension on the strings that there is no need for it.
Plus I think that if I pull the strings with my hand I will create an uneven tension on the strings and cause the overtones to not ring as even. Which is the entire reason I changed my strings in the first place.
I don't know if what I do is based in reality but that never concerned me much anyway.

Bob

Chuck McGill · Post by **Chuck McGill** » 28 Nov 2002 5:45 am

Chas, Donny. You make good sense to me. I would still say that most tuning problems are
in seating the string. I would like to carry
this discussion further.

Roy McKinney · Post by **Roy McKinney** » 28 Nov 2002 6:10 am

Changing strings on a keyless is more of a problem. I use a pair of duckbill plyers to pull the string as tight as I can before I tighten it down otherwise I run out of adjustments especially on the smaller gauge strings. After it "settles in", then I cut off the loose end.

Whip Lashaway · Post by **Whip Lashaway** » 28 Nov 2002 7:04 am

Roy
Both of my guitars are keyless and I think they are quicker. Mine both came with a piece of metal dowel rod about 3" long with a small hole in the center. You put the string through and wrap it around a couple of times and pull on it till the string is streched tight and clamp it off. Only time I ever have trouble with running out of adjustment is on the G#. Every once in a while it doesn't tighten down correctly and the string is actually slipping instead of stretching. I have to loosen it up and give it another try. You could make yourself up one of these rods very easily or get one from Sierra, I'm sure they have them.
Whip

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Whip Lashaway
Sierra E9/B6 12 string
Sierra E9/B6 14 string