finishing formica?

Brad Sarno · Post by **Brad Sarno** » 12 Sep 2002 1:29 pm

I've got an old black mica Emmons that I'm restoring. It's the old matte finish mica, not the glossy. There were a few places that needed some scratches rubbed out. How to you approach finishing mica? Wet sandpaper? Steel wool? Buffing wheel? Spit?

Thanks,
Brad Sarno

Matt Martin · Post by **Matt Martin** » 12 Sep 2002 1:36 pm

You don't... you'll have to peel it off and replace it.

Brad Sarno · Post by **Brad Sarno** » 12 Sep 2002 1:42 pm

Oh no no, this is a sweet '66 bolt-on push/pull and the mica is fine. It's already been remounted to the body. Just 2 little blemish spots and i want to blend them in. Isn't there some proper way to sand or buff mica?

Brad Sarno

Matt Martin · Post by **Matt Martin** » 12 Sep 2002 5:58 pm

Go to a cabinet supply and get a tube of
mica patch. Not Home Depot but a supply house. You might be able to make it blend in. Mica sucks when it needs repaired!!

Paul Norris · Post by **Paul Norris** » 12 Sep 2002 6:03 pm

If you buff mica you will leave uneven shinie spots and if you buff the hole thing then you have long uneven streaks. Even the finest steel wool will leave scraches. you may want to leave well enought alone. Good luck. Paul:

Rick Collins · Post by **Rick Collins** » 12 Sep 2002 7:25 pm

As a last resort, I'd mix some flat black paint with some toothpaste and rub it into the scratches with a cloth. The toothpaste is only slightly abrasive. Use very little paint.

Rick

Jim Smith · Post by **Jim Smith** » 12 Sep 2002 7:40 pm

The color of Formica doesn't go all the way through, it's just a very thin veneer, as you can probably see in your blemish spots. I haven't heard of Mica Patch, but that sounds like the safest bet so far.

Any thing even slightly abrasive will just make it worse.

Matt Martin · Post by **Matt Martin** » 13 Sep 2002 4:50 am

It's not really called "patch". It's actually
a seam filler. Sorry. But thats the ticket unless you do the peel job. Brad, I suggest
you touch it up with some paint that is a good match. And by all means, don't start rubbing on it with anything. Like Jim said, you'll only make it worse!!

Herb Steiner · Post by **Herb Steiner** » 13 Sep 2002 10:04 am

Brad
Listen to cousin Herb: leave it alone.

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Herb's Steel Guitar Pages
Texas Steel Guitar Association

Donny Hinson · Post by **Donny Hinson** » 13 Sep 2002 12:43 pm

I agree with Herb...leave it alone! The color layer on Formica is thinner than a sheet of paper, and attempts to "fix" the damaged area will only make it worse.

Matt Steindl · Post by **Matt Steindl** » 13 Sep 2002 2:41 pm

They arent blemishes, they're called beauty marks. Why is it, that beat up looking gears seems to play better than museum quality stuff? Maybe the real players get played, and the rest of the gear ends up on a shelf?

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Mattman in "The Big Sleazy"-:
S-10 Dekley, Suitcase Fender Rhodes, B-bender Les Paul

Stephen Gambrell · Post by **Stephen Gambrell** » 13 Sep 2002 4:52 pm

Yeah, look at the prices on Fender's "Relic" series. 2500.00 for a factory beat-up guitar!

MARK GILES · Post by **MARK GILES** » 15 Sep 2002 10:14 am

If the color is missing, a black marks-a-lot is sufficient. Otherwise, listen to cousin Herb. LEAVE IT ALONE. You'll be sorry if you don't.