I have a ?? year 1000 which has the changer that pulls the strings across a fixed bridge, the larger pickup, and chrome stamped-steel pedals. I've noticed in my search for parts that other 400 and 1000 models have different pickups (smaller), changers (which incorporate moving string fingers), and cast aluminum (?)pedals. What are the differences in tone, playability, etc. between the two?
I've heard that my model breaks strings something awful, but I haven't had a problem thus far....breaks strings about as often as my MSA. I also tune my Fender down a whole step, so maybe that has something to do with it as well.
Anyhow, being the weirdo that I am, I have REALLY fallen in love with my 1000, and I am eager to learn all about them, including years of production and factoids about the differences between the designs.
Thanks, y'all!
Craig
Fender 1000 & 400 steels -- differences in model years
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I owned and played two 1000's during my career and I don't remember string breakage being a problem....I didn't change my strings often because I thought they had a better tone as they got older so occasionally (after 6 months or so of not changing) one broke.
However, I was only pulling one string per pedal (ala Mooney) and it may have been different if I had been using the E9. www.genejones.com <FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Gene Jones on 06 September 2002 at 09:46 AM.]</p></FONT>
However, I was only pulling one string per pedal (ala Mooney) and it may have been different if I had been using the E9. www.genejones.com <FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Gene Jones on 06 September 2002 at 09:46 AM.]</p></FONT>
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Where is Jody when we need him? Someone will
correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you are talking about the 1000 (D8) and the 2000 (D10). I never saw the 1000 w/anything other than the fixed bridge, while the 2000 did have the moveable bridges. The 2000 also was capable of dbl raises & lowers while the 1000 was not. How about it, you senior citizens??? Also there were S8s (the 400) & S10s (the 800)<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Doug Seymour on 06 September 2002 at 05:00 PM.]</p></FONT>
correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you are talking about the 1000 (D8) and the 2000 (D10). I never saw the 1000 w/anything other than the fixed bridge, while the 2000 did have the moveable bridges. The 2000 also was capable of dbl raises & lowers while the 1000 was not. How about it, you senior citizens??? Also there were S8s (the 400) & S10s (the 800)<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Doug Seymour on 06 September 2002 at 05:00 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Think I got this right...
Yep, when the 400/1000 came out ('57 I think, but there were very few around until early '58) it had stamped-steel pedals and a fixed (solid rod) bridge. In the early '60s, (late '63 I believe) they went to the roller bridge/cast pedals, and then in '64, they came out with the 800/2000, which were the 10-string models. I played that early 1000 model for over 7 years. Yeah, they broke the 3rd string a lot, that's why we tuned 'em to D9th.
Yep, when the 400/1000 came out ('57 I think, but there were very few around until early '58) it had stamped-steel pedals and a fixed (solid rod) bridge. In the early '60s, (late '63 I believe) they went to the roller bridge/cast pedals, and then in '64, they came out with the 800/2000, which were the 10-string models. I played that early 1000 model for over 7 years. Yeah, they broke the 3rd string a lot, that's why we tuned 'em to D9th.
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Craig H-if you are wanting to play the old Fenders with cables look for the later models with the cam type changer where the ball end goes through from the left side and then loops over the bridge-these work much better than the earlier models with the roller bridge and the pullers behind it-I tried to set one of these up for a guy and even with original Bigsby/Squire strings that NEVER break-I could not get the G#-A raise-it broke the string every time!
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One of the problems with the early models was the "string hooks". These were little U-shaped pieces of wire (about .062") a little less than an inch long that held the ball-end of the strings. I've seen many early 1000's since then, and a lot of them with none of these little loops. Seems players just threw them out, and then fed the strings though the holes in the top of the bridge fingers. But doing this places a sharp kink near the ball-end of the string, and they'll break like crazy!. BTW, there were 2 different designs for these little hooks...one with just a hook on each end, and one with a hook on each end and a slight bend in right in the middle. (They actually reminded me of the "hog-rings" that are used the auto upholstery business.)
The main problem was that the string was all that held these hooks in place, and if you packed up the guitar with a broken string, the hook would most likely get lost. Also, almost none of these guitars still have their bridge covers still on them. These were made to cover up the hooks, and keep clothing from getting snagged on them. Fender could sure make some extra money if they could still supply these covers!
The main problem was that the string was all that held these hooks in place, and if you packed up the guitar with a broken string, the hook would most likely get lost. Also, almost none of these guitars still have their bridge covers still on them. These were made to cover up the hooks, and keep clothing from getting snagged on them. Fender could sure make some extra money if they could still supply these covers!