How many have their E,s down RKR?
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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How many have their E,s down RKR?
I have a great sounding MCI but the E,s down are on RKR and I,m to lazy to move it.I checked around and the chart for Jimmy Day has him lowering string 8 RKR.I like the vedios of Buddy Emmons playing his MCI.Thanks Jerry
- Richard Sinkler
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Do you have problems using it? If not, it is fine there. There are no set rules for what levers you have your changes on. There are only "suggestions". And also "suggestions" on putting certain changes on separate knees because use use them together, like the E lowers and the lever to lower 6 from G# to F#.
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 53 years and still counting.
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- Howard Steinberg
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I started on a market rite with the E's lowered on RKR. Then I got a used MSA classic that the the E's lowered RKR and raised RKL. My first new guitar I ordered with the E's on the right side. I have a new guitar on order with the E's on the left and I'm getting the E's moved to the left on my D-10. I never gave it much thought but it just seems more intuitive to have these changes working with the leg that operates the pedals. I guess I'll find out soon enough which arrangement works best for me. Maybe a change will be a good thing.
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Knee levers.I have my E,s all over.
I have a bunch of steels and the knee,s are all over the place and I just get use to them.The MCI is the only one with rkr for E,s down.I seem to play ok were ever there are but I may not play that well either.I,m going to do a gig this weekend and see what happens under a little pressure.Jerry
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I'm with Donny on this one. I've had my e-lower on LKR, RKL and RKR. They all work fine for me, but I really prefer a U-12, and it's the best for that setup. I can't imagine the B6 "side" with the E's anywhere else.
RICK ABBOTT
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Wakarusa 5e3 clone
1953 Stromberg-Carlson AU-35
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Wakarusa 5e3 clone
1953 Stromberg-Carlson AU-35
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- Darvin Willhoite
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I lower my E's with the RKR, and raise them with the LKR.
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, as well as some older MSAs, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Recently added a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored blue Rose, named the "Blue Bird" to the herd. Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic again that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also added a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks.
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, as well as some older MSAs, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Recently added a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored blue Rose, named the "Blue Bird" to the herd. Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic again that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also added a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks.
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With the 4 & 8 levers on the left leg, the main 'pedal & lever' chord
configurations (A & Raise E's, B & Lower E's, etc) are all done on one
leg rather than two, meaning less 'leg manipulation' under the guitar,
making it less complicated.
Sho~Bud's 'factory setup' was to lower on the right leg and raise on the left.
MSAs was to have both on the right. Emmons was to have both on the left.
~Russ
configurations (A & Raise E's, B & Lower E's, etc) are all done on one
leg rather than two, meaning less 'leg manipulation' under the guitar,
making it less complicated.
Sho~Bud's 'factory setup' was to lower on the right leg and raise on the left.
MSAs was to have both on the right. Emmons was to have both on the left.
~Russ
- John Shadid
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Richard, other than the IV-I, what are the other main uses of the E lever combined with lowering the G# to F#? At the moment I have these changes on opposite legs. My first guitar had this change but I found it unnecessary after learning more about the A pedal & F lever combo. Jerry, I also play an MCI and I raise Es LKR and lower Es RKL. It gives me much smoother transitions between the two. And I suppose them being on RKR and LKL wouldn't make a bit of difference.
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http://www.youtube.com/user/johnnyupok
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- Richard Sinkler
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John... There is a ton of good stuff using that combination and moving between the pedals down position and that position 2 frets down that you can't get with the AF combination. If the AF combo was identical, you wouldn't see anyone lower their 6th string. When you start letting off the pedals and levers and activating them, you end up with so many cool melodic moves. Just ask Emmons, Hughey and many others. If I could only have 3 levers, they would be the E raises and lowers and the 6th lower to F#. FYI, I just did a 4 hour gig today and never once used the lever that lowered string 2. But, I was all over that G# to F# lever.
Not everything is about the chords you can get and where you can get them.
Not everything is about the chords you can get and where you can get them.
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 53 years and still counting.
- Papa Joe Pollick
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Well I came from the std Emmons setup over to LKL for E down once I changed to a 12U. Once familiar I wouldn't change back and I agree with Donny. I find the right foot/knee has more options this way. Also I can just volume down and hold the lever (with either the foot on the volume or the pedal bar) for B6th work and still change back and fro B6 to E9 whenever required.
But it's what you are familiar with and personally prefer.
But it's what you are familiar with and personally prefer.
Priebs GFI ('09)Short-Uni10. GFI ('96)Short-Uni SD11. ('86)JEM U12
www.steelguitardownunder.com
www.steelguitardownunder.com
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You can tell all the old MSA players here... MSA was standard with E changes on the right in the 70's. RKR always lowered, LKR always raised..
I set up every steel I own in that way, including my Fender 800.. I guess i could adapt if I had to, but why bother at this point??. Its what I am used to.. My first "real steel" was an MSA S-10 with 5 and 4... The E's were on the right back then, I got used to it, and still am used to it... bob
I set up every steel I own in that way, including my Fender 800.. I guess i could adapt if I had to, but why bother at this point??. Its what I am used to.. My first "real steel" was an MSA S-10 with 5 and 4... The E's were on the right back then, I got used to it, and still am used to it... bob
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
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- Jerry Hayes
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My first "real" steel guitar after the Fender 8 stringer was a ShoBud S-12 which came with the E lowers on RKL and the raises on LKL. I tried it about a year like that before I started trying out the U-12 and changed the lowers to RKR and the raises to RKL where they are to this day and will remain as it just makes more sense to me that way. Jeff Newman also did 'em like this and his reasoning was that it released the left leg to be free to operate any of the floor pedals or levers (except RKL) and gave you a bunch of options..........JH in Va.
Don't matter who's in Austin (or anywhere else) Ralph Mooney is still the king!!!
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My first "pro" steel had 4+8 lowers on RKR and 4+8 raises on LKL. I've been playing that way for some time now. I have a U-12 Zum, which, is set up the same and suits me fine. It's very comfortable and seems natural to me. I have no problem playing E-9th and switching to B-6th, seamlessly with this set up.
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