Avoiding Bar Scrape
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- Rick Myrland
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Avoiding Bar Scrape
The intro to Josh Turner's "Firecracker" in B starts at fret 14 with A+B, slid to 7 no pedals, then to fret 2 with A+B; very simple. However, as the bar gets to about fret 5, certainly by fret 3, I get awful bar scrape. It's really distracting (at least to me) and sounds ugly. I have my left hand fingers down on the strings behind the bar -- anything else I can do? How do the professionals avoid this?
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- Erv Niehaus
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- Rick Myrland
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I use a standard BJS bar, wipe it down regularly, but can't say as thought I necessarily "clean" it. Does anyone use a cleaner on their bar -- maybe Brasso? Is that safe?
And I never considered that stainless on stainless might be an issue.
I'll try the harder picking and see if that helps, as I think it through, that makes sense, because the picked strings will have a much stronger signal all the way down.
Thanks!
And I never considered that stainless on stainless might be an issue.
I'll try the harder picking and see if that helps, as I think it through, that makes sense, because the picked strings will have a much stronger signal all the way down.
Thanks!
Mullen G2; Fender Tone Master Twin Reverb; Goodrich L-120
- Fred Glave
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Sliding downward, we lose volume quicker it seems due to the loss in string vibration/frequency. When we slide up it's the opposite, we get more volume. The volume pedal needs to be applied in a swell like manner for downward slides to keep the tone and volume up. It can also add some nice texture to the move. Strike the strings strongly to begin the move, and then use the VP to compensate for volume as the bar moves down the neck.
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- Erv Niehaus
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Some light here:Richard Sinkler wrote:Erv... I have heard that you are not to use a stainless bar on stainless strings (I don't) but have never heard the reason why. Can you shed some light on this?
http://steelguitarforum.com/Forum5/HTML/011252.html
Read what Bobbe Seymour said:
http://steelguitarforum.com/Archives/Ar ... 13428.html
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Fender 1000; 1993 Remington U12; 1978 Emmons S10 P/P; GeorgeB Weissenborn;
Fluger Cat-Can; Asher Electro Hawaiian; Gibson BR4; Fender FS52; Guyatone 8str;
Fender Resonator ; Epiphone Coronet 1937; Rickenbacher Ace; Rickenbacher NS;
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This is flame bait for sure, but I'd go a step farther and say don't use stainless strings, period. Well alright, that's bound to be too extreme a position for some but I did find that the stainless strings even made wear bands on my BJS chrome plated bar after awhile. I've mentioned this before and no one responded to it at the time so I wondered if I was the only one to ever have that problem. There was no doubt about it however. A pattern of wear bands on the bar perfectly matching the position of the wound strings started showing up in good light. It could not be polished out. Bill Stroud replaced the bar at the time and I quit using stainless strings. Never had a problem with nickel wound and I prefer the warmer ( less scrapey and dry sounding ) tone of them anyways. They do lose their ring sooner but that's a trade-off.
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I tend to like nickel strings better for their tone, not sure why I tried these stainless strings. The one hyperlink posted had in interesting technique mentioned, of using the left thumb in the lower strings in front of the bar to dampen them, will have to try that too.
Along the same vein, and I'm sure the topic may have come up before, but I have trouble getting the same volume and bright tone from my #1 string -- will different strings make that any better? Has anyone found a particular string make that helps with this? I feel the #1 string often gets lost (not that it's often played with other string groupings), even on some faster licks where you quickly go from say the #3 string to #1 to #4 for example. I sometimes wonder if the audience can hear the fleeting #1 string in there.
Along the same vein, and I'm sure the topic may have come up before, but I have trouble getting the same volume and bright tone from my #1 string -- will different strings make that any better? Has anyone found a particular string make that helps with this? I feel the #1 string often gets lost (not that it's often played with other string groupings), even on some faster licks where you quickly go from say the #3 string to #1 to #4 for example. I sometimes wonder if the audience can hear the fleeting #1 string in there.
Mullen G2; Fender Tone Master Twin Reverb; Goodrich L-120
Lane -I have no idea.
That's what listed here under the 'Description' Tab.
http://www.juststrings.com/sit-be-e9th.html
They have some IDV here, but i'm not sure they are ok for PSG/
http://www.juststrings.com/nickeljustst ... rings.html
That's what listed here under the 'Description' Tab.
http://www.juststrings.com/sit-be-e9th.html
They have some IDV here, but i'm not sure they are ok for PSG/
http://www.juststrings.com/nickeljustst ... rings.html
Last edited by Gary Reed on 7 Apr 2012 9:28 am, edited 2 times in total.
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I don't know if the strings would have anything to do with that but it is possible to have a dead spot in your pup or maybe some adjusting is required.Rick Myrland wrote:I tend to like nickel strings better for their tone, not sure why I tried these stainless strings. The one hyperlink posted had in interesting technique mentioned, of using the left thumb in the lower strings in front of the bar to dampen them, will have to try that too.
Along the same vein, and I'm sure the topic may have come up before, but I have trouble getting the same volume and bright tone from my #1 string -- will different strings make that any better? Has anyone found a particular string make that helps with this? I feel the #1 string often gets lost (not that it's often played with other string groupings), even on some faster licks where you quickly go from say the #3 string to #1 to #4 for example. I sometimes wonder if the audience can hear the fleeting #1 string in there.
Mute the low strings with the thumb of your left hand.
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That tells me they're S.I.T. I'd try B0b, Jim Palenscar, or Bobbe. If that failed, I'd try S.I.T. directlyGary Reed wrote:Lane -I have no idea.
That's what listed here under the 'Description' Tab.
http://www.juststrings.com/sit-be-e9th.html
I'd give them a whack. Most strings are pretty similar as long as you keep the same metals together.They have some IDV here, but i'm not sure they are ok for PSG/
http://www.juststrings.com/nickeljustst ... rings.html
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- Bob Hoffnar
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Changing bars and strings or putting goop on your steel probably won't make any difference. To deal with that scrappy sound you need to practice the right way. The problem is most likely how you hold the bar and how hard you pick. Generally that sound comes from the lower strings. Everybody learns how to work through it. The operative word being "work". I don't know any pro players that have a problem with string noise because of what kind of bar or strings they use. Everybody has preferences but its not such a big deal.
Bob