my knee lever on my p/p broke

Henry Matthews · Post by **Henry Matthews** » 16 May 2002 10:52 am

The two screws that fasten the E-lower knee lever to the body (wood Part0 of my Emmons p/p/ stripped out. Could some one tell me if I can use longer screws or what exactley to do. The screws that are in it are really short and I believe I could get by with slightley longer screws but don't know if they will pierce the body or not. Your help will be appreciated.---Henry

1982 Emmons p/p 8&5

Jim Smith · Post by **Jim Smith** » 16 May 2002 11:11 am

I wouldn't put longer screws in unless your are 100% sure they aren't too long. Hardware stores sell kits to fix stripped screw holes. I've fixed some by stuffing toothpicks in the hole and breaking them off at the surface. You could also try a fatter, but not longer, screw.

Earnest Bovine · Post by **Earnest Bovine** » 16 May 2002 11:25 am

What kind of material will fix stripped-out wood?

Mark Herrick · Post by **Mark Herrick** » 16 May 2002 11:44 am

I have heard the "toothpick" fix before. You have to use carpenters glue and keep jamming toothpicks in until you fill the hole. When they dry, level them off flush and re-drill a pilot hole for the screw.

I also noticed this problem on a guitar I just bought; one of the knee lever mounting bracket screws was stripped. I thought of maybe putting in the next larger (wider) size screw.

Could that be an option? (Dang! I hate it when I submit a post, then re-read the previous ones, and find out the question's already been answered...D'oh!)

Technically, filling the hole and re-drilling is probably the best method. Heck, you could go whole hog and get a Forstner drill bit (for a flat-bottomed hole) drill out a half-inch hole, glue in a half inch dowel, level it off, drill a pilot hole, re-insert the screw, and it really would be "good as new"!

(I know there's a drill press around here somewhere....)<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Mark Herrick on 16 May 2002 at 12:53 PM.]</p></FONT>

C Dixon · Post by **C Dixon** » 16 May 2002 12:15 pm

There is a glue that woodworking stores use that is perfect for this fix. I dont recall the name. But it comes in a small clear plastic bottle that has a green label on it.

It does a quick and thorough job of making the new screw grab just like the original wood.

Carpenter's glue, Elmer's glue etc, have never worked too good for me.

God bless you in your attempts,

carl

Henry Matthews · Post by **Henry Matthews** » 16 May 2002 1:23 pm

Thanks Guys, I'll try the tooth pick method for tonight and maybe get by and then look for a more permanant fix later--Thanks
Henry

Glenn Austin · Post by **Glenn Austin** » 16 May 2002 1:44 pm

Fill the hole with epoxy, and then drill a small pilot hole. You might want to use a toothpick or something to coax the epoxy to the bottom of the hole. Those screws will never budge after that. I wouldn't use a fatter screw. The screws that are on there are already pretty thick.

Darvin Willhoite · Post by **Darvin Willhoite** » 16 May 2002 2:51 pm

I had to fix some stripped out holes on the P/P I'm currently rebuilding. I used two-part epoxy like Glenn suggested. It worked great and you can't tell they were ever stripped. Use a wood screw chart to see what size pilot hole is required, if the hole is too small, it could split the wood.

------------------
Darvin Willhoite
Riva Ridge Recording

Henry Matthews · Post by **Henry Matthews** » 16 May 2002 7:19 pm

THANKS AGAIN. THE TOOTH PICKS WORKED TONIGHT AND WILL TRY THE EPOXY AND REDRILL. THANKS AGAIN---HENRY

Jerry Roller · Post by **Jerry Roller** » 16 May 2002 8:04 pm

Henry, the toothpick method should hold up for a very long time especially if you used some glue with the toothpicks. I would suggest that you leave it as it is if the screws tightened up very snug but if you feel that you must drill them out please be aware that it is very easy to drill too deep and come out the top of the guitar with the hole and it makes one ugly mess. I hope you will check and see that the holes would hit under the neck if you went too deep and if that is not the case I would take the time to make a sleeve or use collars on the drill bit to gauge the depth of the hole and make it impossible to drill thru. It takes about two seconds to make a problem that is about impossible to fix.
Jerry Roller

Cal Sharp · Post by **Cal Sharp** » 16 May 2002 8:38 pm

You can also drill 2 more holes off to one side about 1/8-1/4 inch and mount the knee lever there, if it won't put in an uncomfortable place.

C#

Michael McGee · Post by **Michael McGee** » 17 May 2002 6:26 am

I would also caution against a longer screw. From past experience (all bad!) it will most likely chip/splinter the formica.

Mike

Teirre Humpherys · Post by **Teirre Humpherys** » 17 May 2002 7:32 am

Henry,

Just simply move your screws either to rignt or left of the previous holes approximately a quarter of an inch and redrill new holes then simply adjust your knee lever angle screw and you're ready to go. This happened afew years back and it worked fine. As for longer screws-----Do not use them.!!!!! If longer screws were to be used they would have installed longer screws at the factory.

Teirre Humpherys
form Idaho.

Al Miller · Post by **Al Miller** » 17 May 2002 8:33 am

C DIXON!!
I think the glue you are refering to is called gorilla glue.. best glue ever made !! i use it on my RC model planes it glues everything from foam to wood . its water activated and really holds well when cured. i buy mine from a wood working shop and store its around $20.00 a bottle
BOO MILLER

Bob Hoffnar · Post by **Bob Hoffnar** » 18 May 2002 7:31 pm

Here is some products that are made to fill stripped out wood:

"Plastic Wood" its a cellulous fibre filler

"Titebond" wood glue made by franklin international

"Probond" polyurethane glue

I would also ask at a local hardware store what they might suggest. I have had much better luck with the small local guys rather than "The Home Despot".

These products are made for the exact problem you are having.

Bob