I have a Fender Custom (10-14-51)in mint condition but the tone control quit working. I replaced it exactly as the original was wired and installed and it still doesn't work. I made sure it was the same size as the original (250K). Then I tried a 500K and 1000K and still no tone control. Volume is tremendous but I need tone control.I replaced the .05 capacitor between the two middle leads of the two pots. Check all solder joints. All in good condition.
Does anyone have any suggestions. I live in Broken Arrow, Okla and I don't know of any repair shops. Help!
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Chuck Sierra U12, Oahau Diana 6 string lap
My tone won't tune on my Custom Fender
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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Chuck Trombley
- Posts: 117
- Joined: 21 Jan 2000 1:01 am
- Location: Broken Arrow, Ok. 74012
- Contact:
Chuck--are you saying that one day it was working fine and then the tone control just stopped working? If so, the first thing I'd be looking for would be a broken ground--like a leg of a cap or resistor coming from the tone pot and not connected to ground. Or an old cold solder joint. If you have a continuity tester you can probe around and see if there's a bad solder joint. Although it sounds like you've probably looked for this kind of stuff. Wish I could be more helpful.
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jerry wallace
- Posts: 762
- Joined: 7 Dec 1999 1:01 am
- Location: Artesia , NM (deceased)
- Contact:
Chuck,I think one end of the Cap has to go to ground..Its been awhile since I used anything with a tone pot and a cap but someone correct me if I am wrong about this:
One end of the cap should be on the wiper{center} of the tone pot, and the other end of the cap should go to ground..One end of the tone pot should be to ground and the opposite end of the tone pot should be jumpered{direct}to the ungrounded end of the Volume pot..At least I think thats the correct wiring..
Reversing the ends that are grounded on the pots reverses their rotation direction..
http://www.provide.net/~cfh/p90.gif
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Jerry Wallace-2001 Zum: D-10,8+6, "98 Zum: D-10,8+8,Nashville 1000,Session 500 ,Session 400 head only amp,Tubefex,ProfexII, Artesia, New Mexico
http://communities.msn.com/jerrywallacemusic http://www.jerrywallacemusic.com
<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by jerry wallace on 01 May 2002 at 11:12 PM.]</p></FONT>
One end of the cap should be on the wiper{center} of the tone pot, and the other end of the cap should go to ground..One end of the tone pot should be to ground and the opposite end of the tone pot should be jumpered{direct}to the ungrounded end of the Volume pot..At least I think thats the correct wiring..
Reversing the ends that are grounded on the pots reverses their rotation direction..
http://www.provide.net/~cfh/p90.gif
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Jerry Wallace-2001 Zum: D-10,8+6, "98 Zum: D-10,8+8,Nashville 1000,Session 500 ,Session 400 head only amp,Tubefex,ProfexII, Artesia, New Mexico
http://communities.msn.com/jerrywallacemusic http://www.jerrywallacemusic.com
<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by jerry wallace on 01 May 2002 at 11:12 PM.]</p></FONT>
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jerry wallace
- Posts: 762
- Joined: 7 Dec 1999 1:01 am
- Location: Artesia , NM (deceased)
- Contact:
Chuck,I added a link to my earlier post above that shows at least one way to wire your tone pot..
In this diagram, the cap is between the volume and tone pots, with the resistance of the tone pot opening and closeing the caps path to ground..
I think the way I described in my earlier post will also work except one end of the tone pot should be open/ not used, rather than grounded..
In one instance, the cap is in front of the pot resistance and in the other instance, its behind the pot resistance..The results I beleave will be the same..
I hope this helps..
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Jerry Wallace-2001 Zum: D-10,8+6, "98 Zum: D-10,8+8,Nashville 1000,Session 500 ,Session 400 head only amp,Tubefex,ProfexII, Artesia, New Mexico
http://communities.msn.com/jerrywallacemusic http://www.jerrywallacemusic.com
In this diagram, the cap is between the volume and tone pots, with the resistance of the tone pot opening and closeing the caps path to ground..
I think the way I described in my earlier post will also work except one end of the tone pot should be open/ not used, rather than grounded..
In one instance, the cap is in front of the pot resistance and in the other instance, its behind the pot resistance..The results I beleave will be the same..
I hope this helps..
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Jerry Wallace-2001 Zum: D-10,8+6, "98 Zum: D-10,8+8,Nashville 1000,Session 500 ,Session 400 head only amp,Tubefex,ProfexII, Artesia, New Mexico
http://communities.msn.com/jerrywallacemusic http://www.jerrywallacemusic.com
Chuck,
I do not know what is wrong with your tone circuit. But I will tell you this.
The tone circuitry used in most steel guitars is extremely simply. Just 2 parts--a pot and a cap of varying values. (In a few cases like Emmons' there is a disconnect switch that removes the 2 parts from the circuit if desired).
Also, it makes no difference whether the cap is before or after the pot on its way to ground.
Now using these simple facts, do some experimenting.
1. Remove the pot and cap connections from your guitar.
1. Take a new pot (500K is ok) and a new cap (.05mfd is fine), put them in series. Connect one end of this pair to ground. (Don't install this pair. Just leave them hanging in the air as you do this and the following).
2. Connect the other end of this pair to the hot lead coming from the pick up.
3. Pick the strings.
4. Turn the pot and you should hear a decided change in the tone of your guitar.
Now using this, trace the circuitry of your pot and cap that is in your guitar.
You should quickly be able to find the cause.
Here are some possibilities, but they are just that. They may have nothing to do with your problem:
1. The pot in your guitar is shorted to ground.
2. The cap is shorted, partially shorted or open (defective).
3. The connection to the pot and/or cap is NOT making contact, EVEN though it appears that it is.
4. The connections, to or from the pot and cap, may be touching ground.
God bless you in your attempts,
carl
I do not know what is wrong with your tone circuit. But I will tell you this.
The tone circuitry used in most steel guitars is extremely simply. Just 2 parts--a pot and a cap of varying values. (In a few cases like Emmons' there is a disconnect switch that removes the 2 parts from the circuit if desired).
Also, it makes no difference whether the cap is before or after the pot on its way to ground.
Now using these simple facts, do some experimenting.
1. Remove the pot and cap connections from your guitar.
1. Take a new pot (500K is ok) and a new cap (.05mfd is fine), put them in series. Connect one end of this pair to ground. (Don't install this pair. Just leave them hanging in the air as you do this and the following).
2. Connect the other end of this pair to the hot lead coming from the pick up.
3. Pick the strings.
4. Turn the pot and you should hear a decided change in the tone of your guitar.
Now using this, trace the circuitry of your pot and cap that is in your guitar.
You should quickly be able to find the cause.
Here are some possibilities, but they are just that. They may have nothing to do with your problem:
1. The pot in your guitar is shorted to ground.
2. The cap is shorted, partially shorted or open (defective).
3. The connection to the pot and/or cap is NOT making contact, EVEN though it appears that it is.
4. The connections, to or from the pot and cap, may be touching ground.
God bless you in your attempts,
carl
