Corrosion on under carriage

[Bob Evens]

I placed a dehumidifier (black net covered bag) in my guitar case. I then proceded to set up my guitar and play my set. (I had set the bag on the stage)
When through, I noticed a puddle of liquid on the floor. while cleaning up the gooey mess, I got a few drops on the under side of the guitar. Long story short...corrosion on the pedal rods and bell cranks. I've tried to steel wool the affected parts clean to no avail. Any suggestions?
Bob Evens

[Lane Gray]

One of those drill-mounted wire brushes? I'd seriously hesitate taking a grinding wheel to it, since aluminum is kinda soft

[Gary Patterson]

Assuming you'll disassemble the parts for this cleanup, I'd suggest tumbling the bellcranks. I've used a vibratory tumbler and walnut shell media from Harbor Freight Tools. Or a local machine shop might have a stone-media rotary tumbler.

If you have a buddy who reloads ammo, he might have this. Or you can buy one for < $50.

For the rods, I'd try wet/dry sandpaper starting at about 400 grit (assuming no plating). After 600, you can buff them with a wheel.

[Bent Romnes]

Bob you are positive it is corrosion?
If the pedal rods are stainless steel, I would buff them on a buffer with the 3 different grits of buffing compound. Same with the bell cranks. If aluminum, I would sand the corrosion off with 400 grit aluminum oxide sand paper. Then once over with 600 grit. Then buff with a buffing wheel and black, brown and white compound. This is assuming the stuff hasn't eaten into the metal too deep.

[Wayne Baker]

Sir, if the metal in question is alluminum, you could do the following ONLY IF IT IS IN AN UNSEEN AREA:

1. Clean the area first to see the level of damage.
2. Blend the damage with a blue or light brown scotch bright wheel, depending on the level of damage, which is used in a die grinder.
3. When you blend. move the wheel in a back and forth motion to prevent going too deep in one area.
4. Treat the area with Alodine 1200 then clean water. Alodine is a corrosion preventative used on alluminum. The alluminum will be a light goldish color if you have applied it correctly.

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD ON STAINLESS STEEL. STAINLESS WILL NOT CORRODE.

Please feel free to contact me with further questions regarding this issue.

Wayne Baker

[Bob Evens]

Thanks for the help guys
I used 600 grit sand paper and "sanded" the spots of corrosion and they cleaned up real good. I wiped the affected spots with a light machine oil, taking care not to over do it. Looks good.
I'll monitor the areas and report if I need to follow up.
Thanks for the help.
Bob

[John Billings]

This stuff. Great product. Removes corrosion on all metals.
http://www.californiacustom.com/aluminu ... dizer.html

[Mike Randolph]

John,have you used these products on your guitar.The polish and deoxidizer sounds easy?

[John Billings]

Mike,
Yes! Best I've ever used! Follow their directions, and put on the oxidizer, then the polish over it. You just wipe it off with a soft cloth. No rubbing! No buffing! When I tried it on my Fingertip endplate I was astonished how easy it was. The guitar hadn't been polished in many years, the aluminum was actually gray. One application, and I was done. Great products.
Maguiar's Swirl Remover 2.0 for cleaning the lacquer finish.

[Mike Randolph]

Thanks John I will order it!!!!!!!!

[John Billings]

I think you'll be very happy with the results. I don't like to waste time while working. Now it won't remove small scratches like Simichrome will do. But if you don't need to do that, you'll cut your polishing time by at least 4 times. Please let me know what you think after trying it.