Emmons tuning keys
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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Emmons tuning keys
Does anyone out there know where I can get the threaded sleeves that hold the tuning gear to the key head of the guitar.The ones that came with the guitar are too short, and keep coming loose.I thought that someone said there is a part that has longer threads.
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I will have to check on the type, not sure what they are.There is no name on them.I might have to check with Emmons factory.The guitar was built four years ago.Lagrande II.
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<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Curt Olsen on 25 March 2002 at 12:13 PM.]</p></FONT>
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<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Curt Olsen on 25 March 2002 at 12:13 PM.]</p></FONT>
- Mike Sweeney
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Curt,
The problem on your Emmons is the same one
that I had. The keys are supposed to be Grovers but untill you get the ones that actually say Grover on them, you will not solve your problem!
If you can get Emmons on the line, they will probably send you the right ones.
The ones you have on it now, are not long
enough to come through the peg head.
I would have thought they would have fixed
this by now.
The problem on your Emmons is the same one
that I had. The keys are supposed to be Grovers but untill you get the ones that actually say Grover on them, you will not solve your problem!
If you can get Emmons on the line, they will probably send you the right ones.
The ones you have on it now, are not long
enough to come through the peg head.
I would have thought they would have fixed
this by now.
- Ricky Littleton
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- Wayne Baker
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I had this problem with GROVERS on my Legrande II. The keys said GROVER on the inside next to the rotating shaft. The rotating shaft moves latteraly and would rub against the nut causing it to turn counter-clockwise when changing or tuning strings. So, I bought SPERZAL, from Steel Guitar Nashville for about $200, and have had no trouble since the change. No ab-normal winding methods to use. I wind them just like on my old Emmons, and I don't break strings any more.
I had to re-drill for the SPERZAL tuners, because the distance between the rotating shaft and what I call the retainer was different. I had no problems at all with re-drilling. I used a drill-press, vernier caliper, and cloth to prevent damage to the headstocks.
I believe you can save yourself a headache if you use the SPERZAL tuners. I have them on both an older Emmons(origional) and my Legrande II. Email me if you need any help with the project. I'd be glad to help in any way I can.
Thank you,
Wayne Baker
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Emmons Legrande d-10 w/8&5 Nashville 400, peavey ultraverb II.
I had to re-drill for the SPERZAL tuners, because the distance between the rotating shaft and what I call the retainer was different. I had no problems at all with re-drilling. I used a drill-press, vernier caliper, and cloth to prevent damage to the headstocks.
I believe you can save yourself a headache if you use the SPERZAL tuners. I have them on both an older Emmons(origional) and my Legrande II. Email me if you need any help with the project. I'd be glad to help in any way I can.
Thank you,
Wayne Baker
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Emmons Legrande d-10 w/8&5 Nashville 400, peavey ultraverb II.
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Thanks all you guys, it looks as if I need new tuning keys.I would have been nice if the guitar were built right in the first place,however you live and learn.If anyone remembers, I had a post before about the clicking changer ( the flating lever pulls the raise lever with it until it breaks loose and returns)I tried everything to clear up the sticking parts with no luck.I contacted Emmons with no luck from them.Another live and learn issue.also the nameplate cracked two weeks after I got the guitar.
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<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Curt Olsen on 31 March 2002 at 07:15 PM.]</p></FONT>
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<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Curt Olsen on 31 March 2002 at 07:15 PM.]</p></FONT>