Carter D-10 lubrication, string removal, how to clean it up?

Susan Conway · Post by **Susan Conway** » 29 Dec 2011 3:51 pm

I'm just a beginner or newbie with the PSG and have some general maintenance questions if anyone could help direct me as I start out?

I just got a used Carter D-10 last week to learn how to play on. The guitar has sat, largely unplayed for about 9 years and could use a good cleaning and some new strings after being stored away so long.

The manual has some general lubrication directions but nothing that shows you where exactly to place lubrication.

For example, how/where do you lube the changer at, or where exactly do you lube the roller nut, or where exactly to lube the moving parts underneath?

I'm trying to be careful, so not to make a mess of it!

Is 3-In-1 Oil the best lubricant for doing this type of lube job? Should I use something else that is better?

I noticed that 3-In-1 Oil is now made by the WD-40 Company and I know I should not use WD-40 at all. Is 3-In-1 Oil the same as it use to be?

Will it harm the guitar's setup at all if I removed ALL the strings to clean the wood finish and to clean some of the metal neck under the fret board markers before installing the new strings?

I think the guitar was made around 2002 and has what looks like either aluminum, stainless steel or chromed metal under the fret board markers.

Would anyone know the type of metal Carter used for the D-10 metal neck under the fret board markers?

What's the best method to clean all of these juxtaposing finished surfaces on the guitar, ie., high-gloss wood finish, aluminum, stainless steel, chrome, etc., without messing anything up?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Susan

Jack Stoner · Post by **Jack Stoner** » 29 Dec 2011 4:37 pm

Susan, I don't know where you are in Florida but if you are in central Florida, check out out Florida Steel Guitar Club. We have monthly meetings/jams.

www.floridasteelguitarclub.com

My wife is learning pedal steel.

3 in 1 oil is what I use on my guitar.

David Higginbotham · Post by **David Higginbotham** » 29 Dec 2011 4:47 pm

It is fine to remove all of the strings to change them and while they are off to give a good cleaning. I'm assuming this is a formica covered body and not a lacquered body?

You can use mother's to clean the aluminum neck, which is the part under the fret markers, as well as the end plates or any other metal on the guitar. Any residue left over can be cleaned up with regular alcohol. I use alcohol on my mica guitars and it works fine for cleaning. Use it sparingly by placing it on a rag and not pouring it onto the guitar.

As for lubing the guitar, I use a quality gun oil. You may get responses referring you to use high grade aviation lube etc. which is fine. But gun oil works fine and lasts. It causes no harm to the guitar. WD-40 and 3 in 1 oil are not what you want to use. Any type of penetrating lubes are not appopriate to use.

The only part of the changer you need to lube is on top where the strings attach you can place one drop between each finger joint. From the bottom with the guitar up side down you can place a drop or two between each finger joint and move them back and forth allowing the oil to slide between. Having the strings off will greatly help on this.

On the roller nut which it at the other end near the keys where the strings sit you can place a drop of oil on the side of each and roll them with your finger to make sure they roll freely. This is really all of the lube necessary for a trouble free guitar.

Susan Conway · Post by **Susan Conway** » 29 Dec 2011 4:52 pm

Thanks Jack!

I wish Carter had put instructions of where to place a tiny drop of oil on the Changer and roller nut.

Could you describe how to do it?

Thanks for the info about the club, I'd like to check it out sometime.

Thanks,
Susan

Susan Conway · Post by **Susan Conway** » 29 Dec 2011 5:01 pm

Hey David,

Thanks so much for the detailed post on Lubing and Cleaning.

You mentioned a high-quality gun oil. Would you mind offering any recomendations of which you like best?

I'm glad I didn't use the 3in1 Oil.
Thanks so very much!
Susan

Susan Conway · Post by **Susan Conway** » 29 Dec 2011 5:05 pm

Thanks David,

I forgot to include in my last reply, that the guitar is a lacquered body.

Would you revise your previous advice based on the a lacquered body?

Thanks again,
Susan

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 29 Dec 2011 6:09 pm

Carter used to sell turbine oil from Norvey Inc. It has a long pull out tube that can get in the tight spots you couldn't reach with 3-in-1 oil. I lost the bottle I got from Carter, but found it at Ace Hardware. I wanted to stay with what the manufacturer used when they built the guitar.

When I lube my Carter, I put a little drop at the top at the side of the fingers, making sure I don't get any on the top of the finger where the string is (I lube with the strings on and it works fine). Then I oil the fingers from underneath by gently separating the 2 plates the make up the lower portion of the finger. That allows me to get oil between the plates and oil the rivet that holds them together and the pivot point. Just make sure yo don't try to separate them too much or you might screw the finger up. Just enough for the oil to flow. The roller nut, I just place a little drop at the side of each roller. If you have the string off (I usually take off the string for the finger and roller nut that I am changing. That way you can put the oil in and rotate the roller to work oil in to the shaft. I always do the lube when I change strings to make it easier. I lube maybe once or twice a year. I also place a drop at the ends of the cross shafts where they go into the aluminum strips that hold them.

David Higginbotham · Post by **David Higginbotham** » 29 Dec 2011 7:26 pm

Susan,
Richard does give sound advice and placing a drop of oil at the ends of the cross shafts. Always remember oil attracts dust and over lubing any part will eventually cause excess wear and gumming up of the parts. Builders have designed their guitars to need a minimum amount of maintenance using quality parts needing minor lubrication.

I would revise my advice on a lacquered body by using a good furniture polish instead of alcohol.

I'm using bore bright gun oil on my steels with great results.

Carter's are very well made and I doubt you will have any issues with it other than needing a good cleaning.

Don't be shy! We would love to see what you're Carter looks like...Not many pics of lacquered Carter's around here and I know I would love to see it!

Dave

Greg Cutshaw · Post by **Greg Cutshaw** » 29 Dec 2011 8:11 pm

Here's what I used to lube up my steel and pictures of all the points I applied the lube at:

http://gregcutshaw.com/Lubricate/Lubricate.html

There's a now line of Tri-Flow Teflon lubricants out that I haven't tried yet. After 2 years my guitar still has no squeaks and works super smooth, much more free than when it came form the factory!

Greg

Bill Moore · Post by **Bill Moore** » 29 Dec 2011 8:15 pm

The Turbine oil, in the plastic squeeze bottle is what I use. But, common sewing machine oil will work fine, and you can get it any any discount store. Furniture polish, like Pledge, would be OK for the wood finish. As Dave mentioned, Mothers Mag Wheel polish is a good product for polishing aluminum. You can get everything in one trip to Wal-Mart! Good luck.

Stephen Cordingley · Post by **Stephen Cordingley** » 29 Dec 2011 8:46 pm

Al Brisco has a DVD available at Steel Guitar Canada that answers many of the maintenance questions you are asking.

Lane Gray · Post by **Lane Gray** » 29 Dec 2011 10:16 pm

I'd just point out that 3 in 1 isn't one of those "penetrating oils," but rather just a light machine oil. Therefore one of a handful of things just right for the job.

Clete Ritta · Post by **Clete Ritta** » 29 Dec 2011 10:33 pm

Susan Conway wrote:...Will it harm the guitar's setup at all if I removed ALL the strings to clean the wood finish and to clean some of the metal neck under the fret board markers before installing the new strings?...

No. And it makes it much easier to clean under the tuners. Its a good time to check the rollers and changer while the strings are off. A little oil on any rollers not spinning freely, and a drop in each changer finger. You can push the fingers manually and see where the plates rub. Also oil any pedals that are squeaky

. Oil the areas that are noisy when moved. On the undercarriage (put the steel back in its case), look for every area that has metal to metal friction when moved. Axles, levers etc. If it moves quietly and efficiently, no need to do anything. Oil attracts dust, etc. and will eventually turn to grime, so dont overdo it.

There was a recent thread on 3-in-1 oil here .
And another thread here.

Clete

richard burton · Post by **richard burton** » 30 Dec 2011 12:35 am

This is what I use

Don Sulesky · Post by **Don Sulesky** » 30 Dec 2011 7:09 am

I have and old bottle of Remington gun oil in a syringe that I've been using for years.
Don

Ransom Beers · Post by **Ransom Beers** » 30 Dec 2011 7:34 am

I was told not to oil cross shaft ends "IF" they turned in nylon/Teflon bushing as it has a tendency to seize the shaft.

richard burton · Post by **richard burton** » 30 Dec 2011 8:58 am

Nylon is hygroscopic, ie, it absorbs water (and possibly oil) and swells slightly. That's probably why you were advised not to lubricate the cross-shaft ends.

Wayne Quinn · Post by **Wayne Quinn** » 31 Dec 2011 12:04 pm

Hi Susan.Al Brisco at Steel Guitars Canada has a very good video of maintaining and lube points for Carter guitars check him out i'am sure he will help you out.

Jim Hoke · Post by **Jim Hoke** » 1 Jan 2012 7:55 am

Greg - do you think that stuff is better than silicone?

Mike Wheeler · Post by **Mike Wheeler** » 1 Jan 2012 2:33 pm

Not to answer for Greg, but TriFlow Superior Lubricant (not the Dry version) is better than oil, silicon, or anything else...in my opinion. There have been many discussions about it on the Forum. Do a search for "lubrication", or "TriFlow", and you should find lots of info.

It's your decision as to what you use, but don't discount TriFlow. You won't regret using it.