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Post new topic Tuning problem with a Sho-Bud Maverick
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Author Topic:  Tuning problem with a Sho-Bud Maverick
John Neff

 

From:
Athens, GA
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2011 3:40 pm    
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I'm having trouble raising the 5th(B) string pull up to pitch. About a half step is all it will go. I tried unscrewing the tuner at the endplate and starting over. I also tried different holes where the pedal rod attaches, thinking that would give it more throw. The 10th string raises to pitch, no problem. Any suggestions?
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Bill Moore


From:
Manchester, Michigan
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2011 3:57 pm    
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John, that shouldn't be a problem on a Maverick. You tune the raised note first, pedals down at the keyhead. The open note is tuned with the screw at the changer. Before you start, it's probably a good idea to adjust the screw to about the center of it's travel, just to give room for adjustment both ways.
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John Neff

 

From:
Athens, GA
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2011 6:07 pm    
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Thanks, Bill. It's been a while since I've worked with one of these. I'm still not having any luck, even after following the correct tuning method that you mentioned. At no point in the travel of the screw at the endplate does it allow for a whole step raise. Of course, it's entirely possible that I'm missing something obvious.
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Bill Moore


From:
Manchester, Michigan
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2011 7:15 pm    
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The screw at the endplate has nothing to do with the raised note. It's used to tune the no-pedals B note. First tune the raise, using the tuner at the keyhead, pedals down. Release the pedals, now the open note, B, will probably be out of tune. Use the screw to tune that note. Turn it in to raise the pitch, turn it out to lower the pitch. As I mentioned before, you probably should make sure you start the process with the tuning screw set at the center of it's travel.
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John Neff

 

From:
Athens, GA
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2011 8:05 pm    
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Still no luck. The 5th won't lower a full tone when the "A" pedal is released. I've tried it with the screw in several positions of travel. I've successfully tuned the rest of the guitar. Still could be me.
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Rick Abbott

 

From:
Indiana, USA
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2011 8:08 pm    
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Could the pedal travel screw be too long? re-adjust the other pulls after shortening the pedal travel screw for the A pedal?
_________________
RICK ABBOTT
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Sehy #112
1975 Peavey Pacer 1963 Gibson Falcon
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John Rogers

 

From:
Iowa, USA
Post  Posted 20 Oct 2011 12:33 pm     That worked for me
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What a coincidence, I had that same question (the B string) yesterday after cleaning and setting up my Maverick after 36 years!. I spent the day cleaning and restringing the guitar, cleaning the case, thinking I would get it ready to sell. I was tired at the end of the day while tuning, and decided to leave the tuning problems to the next day. I had forgotten over the years about the tuning method and read this thread just in time to save me from a headache. The guitar sounds so good through my N112 and Digitech RP155 that I don't know if I want to sell it. I do have an MSA that I love and want to sell the Maverick (I think) for cash toward an acoustic guitar.
The only thing I can think that might be troubling John Neff is, yes, that screw could be too long, and/or, something is blocking the full travel of the pedal in the down position ???
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Dana Blodgett

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 20 Oct 2011 12:43 pm     tuning problem with my shoBud Maverick
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I am no expert in this field but I was wondering if you might have a piece of debris lodged in your changer fingers or possible string ball stuck in there someplace!?
This has happened to me on a couple of occassions and have retreived it with a strong magnet to suck it out! Good luck, Dana
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Dana Blodgett
From Los Osos,Ca.
'74 ShoBud 6140 3+4, Martins HD28,D-12-28, D-15,'65 Gibson LG-1, '77 Gibson Les Paul special dbl cut p-90's, Les Paul Special p-100's,Les paul Special Hybrid(maple top) hbkr's,'68 Fender Strat reissue, Fender Squire Jazz bass,Epi mandolin,Epi Wilshire '66 reissue, Kamaka Concert uke, 70's Kamaka Soprano Uke, Fender Super amp, Ampeg ba112 bass amp,60's harmony banjo,'00 Gibson SG Supreme
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John Neff

 

From:
Athens, GA
Post  Posted 20 Oct 2011 3:04 pm    
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Thanks everybody! Maybe it is a ball end. I'm on the road for 10 days and I left the Maverick at home. This is a friend's guitar. I'll keep you posted.
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Steve Wood


From:
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 20 Oct 2011 9:20 pm    
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Try a different string gauge? I'm by no means an expert on the technical stuff. I've had a couple of problems where going up/down a .001 helps.
good luck!
steve
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John Neff

 

From:
Athens, GA
Post  Posted 20 Oct 2011 9:24 pm    
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That's a great idea, Steve. Thanks!
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Steve Wood


From:
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 21 Oct 2011 6:06 pm    
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Hope you get it worked out, John!
I had a frustrating time trying to raise my F# (1st) a whole tone when I got a new steel and was using the same gauges as the last steel. Went to my steel guy and he told me straight away...I should've had a .012 instead of a .013. Worked like a charm.
Best of luck!
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Larry Bell


From:
Englewood, Florida
Post  Posted 22 Oct 2011 5:33 am    
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I'm trying to figure that one out Steve

A 012 would raise a whole tone but a 013 WOULDN'T
Sounds counter-intuitive. Bigger the string, shorter the pull. On all guitars I've had a 013 would raise easily and a 012 would require more throw to raise a whole tone. You sure?????

How string gauge impacts travel is a commonly misunderstood concept since it's an inverse relationship (bigger is SHORTER).

Just curious. It's easy to jump to the wrong conclusion with a pedal steel. Smile
_________________
Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2021 Rittenberry S/D-12 8x7, 1976 Emmons S/D-12 7x6, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Quilter ToneBlock 202 TT-12
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Steve Wood


From:
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 22 Oct 2011 1:05 pm    
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I've probably explained it incorrectly, but I had a .013 on my first string, and it was very hard to raise and would return sharp. Figuring it was only a tuning issue, I kept tuning it higher at the endplate, further complicating my problem.
Took it to my guy (who is the authority on steels up here for sure), we changed to a .012 and it works perfectly.

I'm certainly not an expert on the mechanics. As far as John's problem is concerned, I'm just throwing another possibility into the pot for his consideration.

Thanks for the discussion, Larry...you're always adding insight to the threads and I appreciate it.

s.
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Steve Wood


From:
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 22 Oct 2011 2:34 pm    
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Larry,
now that I've thought about it...the raising was okay, it was the returning sharp that was the problem. Does that make more sense? I think I'm gonna need another one of your in detail emails. My head is starting to hurt Wink

take good care,
s.
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Larry Bell


From:
Englewood, Florida
Post  Posted 23 Oct 2011 7:45 am    
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(sorry if I'm hijacking the thread, John -- hopefully the info is useful)
Steve -- sounds like overtuning at the nylon nut, which is the result of not enough travel to complete the pull. It's usually pretty easy to add a bit of travel. Remember, on an all pull changer ALL PULLS NEED A LITTLE SLACK to avoid this problem.
(and, no, Mavericks don't tune this way with nylon nuts)
_________________
Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2021 Rittenberry S/D-12 8x7, 1976 Emmons S/D-12 7x6, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Quilter ToneBlock 202 TT-12
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