Drilling to add a jack

Tommy Boswell · From: Virginia, USA

I would like to add a second jack to my MSA Classic S10, to give me the option of bypassing the tone/volume controls, or using them.

My question is about drilling, whether to try it myself, or take it to a machine shop. I can drill soft metals with a hand drill and cutting oil. What kind of metal would I be drilling on the MSA? Can I do this? I'm no machinist, but I've worked with farm implements, angle iron and such.

Also, will it hurt anything to drill this hole without taking the guitar apart?

Any help appreciated.

Jason Hull · Posted 14 Mar 2011 8:41 am

I believe the Classic has aluminum endplates, which you should be able to drill easily. If you are careful, you can put the jack in a place where it won't be necessary to dis-assemble the instrument first. It might hurt the value, being modified, and there are other options. A push-pull pot would allow you to bypass the controls, without drilling another hole.

Rich Peterson · From: Moorhead, MN

To avoid devaluing the guitar, I would install the jack on a bracket placed under the instrument.

Bob Metzger · From: Waltham (Boston), MA, USA

Tommy,

Rich makes a strong point. Even simpler yet is to use a 'Y' cord.
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Bob M.

Jim Eaton · From: Santa Susana, Ca

Maybe all you need is to add a toggle switch to bypass the onboard controls like my Emmons guitars have to bypass the tone control. It could be mounted under the body on a bracked out of the way and you would not have to drill any new holes.
JE:-)>

Henry Brooks · From: Los Gatos, California, USA

I would replace the volume control with one that has an on-off switch, no drilling required. The volume control is a log tapper type. If resistance isn't marked on the control measure it with and ohm meter.
Henry

Jason Hull · Posted 14 Mar 2011 11:00 am

Jason Hull · Posted 14 Mar 2011 11:01 am

Henry Brooks · From: Los Gatos, California, USA

Yes that's what I was thinking of, a push pull switch. A on-off switch isn't the correct type. It will just open the circuit. The switch, on the control,needs to be a single pole double throw, three connections. What you want to do is bypass the tone circuit with the switch. The common pin, generally the middle pin, on the switch, connects to the pickup. One of the other switch pins goes directly to the output jack and the last one to volume contact that the pickup was originally. The new volume control will be wired the same as the original was connected. There will be two wires connected to the output jack when your finished. One from the switch and one from the tone control. Reverse the outside wires if you want to reverse the switch positions, up or down. I think a music should have a switch/volume control like this, there used to add custom tapped coil pickup to standard guitars.
Henry

Bo Borland · From: South Jersey -

Many of the MSA Classic series had a tone and volume plus a bypass mini toggle switch on the back apron.
I have seen some that were made without any controls and they had round chrome plugs to finish the holes..

Let's see a picture of the back apron on your steel

Keith Davidson · From: Nova Scotia, Canada

Tommy,

Having been a machinist for over 20 years, I can offer you a few suggestions if you decide to drill your guitar.

First off, I would recommend NOT drilling it if you can as the others have stated it will devalue your axe.

Taking it to a machine shop could be iffy as most are not clean by any stretch unless it is a high end outfit. They may try clamping it, etc. which could ruin the finish, etc.

If doing it yourself just make sure the drill is as perpindicular to the guitar as possible.

A small center punch will keep the drill from wandering when starting the drill - make sure it is small 1/8" or so and get that through first and then gradually increase the size until you get the correct size hole. This will allow you much better control.

Without a center punch the drill could wander all over the surface scratching your end plate.

I think the ideas mentioned above would make better sense.

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

And... If you do decide to drill it, do it with the guitar set up and standing on it's legs. That way the aluminum chips will fall to the floor and not into the changer.

I would go with the other suggestions before drilling a new hole.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting.

Tommy Boswell · From: Virginia, USA

Thanks for all the tips. I will probably avoid the drilling, and try it with a temporary bracket underneath.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

I have 2 MSA guitars. as S10 and D10. I have added the switch to the S10. It is under my steel out of sight. I used an existing hole and screw to attach a small plate drilled and put the switch in the plate. cut + wire and hooked it up, and works great. I can go through the tone and volume control or run it direct for more volume and let my amp and units control the tone. I will take a picture and post how I done it tomorrow. I would not drill the end or back alumnium frame to put a switch in it. It would cut the value of the guitar.

David Nugent · From: Gum Spring, Va.

A Goodrich Matchbox will function as both a tone and volume control, then you can simply bypass the existing controls on the guitar. The earlier models such as the "6A" can be obtained fairly reasonably.... I am located just West of Richmond, if you are fairly close by, you are welcome to try mine before making a decision.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

Sorry I was busy out playing music and just got this together. As you can see the plate of brass was drilled to match a set of holes already in the guitar. I used a swich with 6 wires. The center 2 go to the exit jack. Both wires was split and one set goes through the controls. the other set is hooked direct into the switch. With this switch I have the controls. The other way I have direct to the Jack.

Gary Richardi · From: SoCal, USA

Why switch the ground?

Peter Harris · From: South Australia, Australia

I would have thought that a push-pull pot would have been by far the best solution..

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

Many of the MSA Classic S10's have a tone/volume bypass switch installed already on the player's side eliminating the need for a 2nd jack.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

I have worked on machines about all my life. Eletronics I am not good at. I cut both wires and it works, off is in center, one way through the controls and the other way it is direct. My MSA has a hole with a chrome filler about 3/4 in. left of the top control knob on the guitar. It is very small and I could not find a switch that would fit. That may be where the factory switch was located. That was why I went underneath with the switch. Good Luck & Happy Steelin

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