Help? string through vs not
Moderator: Brad Bechtel
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Help? string through vs not
I'm considering a purchase of a GeorgeBoards lap steel. I'm trying to understand the differences in the Stealth string through the body and the Islander Deluxe. One is about 200.00 less expensive. I don't mind paying more as long as I'm getting more. The explanation from the company seems to be cosmetics but there has been no mention of tonal benefits, durability, playability etc etc. Is one more clear, more toneful more resonant than the other? Can someone help clarify ? What makes deluxe tuners better than reg tuners? Thanks all.
Edit the title of your topic to include the word GeorgeBoards and I bet Mr. Boards himself will answer for you! He is quite generous with his knowledge and of course the best source of info on his instruments.
If Music Be the Food of Love, Play On. -Shakespeare
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1941 Ric B6 / 1948 National Dynamic / 1951 Bronson Supro / Custom teak wood Allen Melbert / Tut Taylor Dobro / Gold Tone Dojo / Martin D15S / Eastman P10
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1941 Ric B6 / 1948 National Dynamic / 1951 Bronson Supro / Custom teak wood Allen Melbert / Tut Taylor Dobro / Gold Tone Dojo / Martin D15S / Eastman P10
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- Joined: 3 Jan 2011 2:00 pm
- Location: Connecticutt
response
He has been very elusive concerning the benefeits of each soundwise. He described a lot about the cosmetics but I can't seem to get a straight answer concerning tone, brighter/ warmer, aluminum vs brass, durability, tuners etc. That's why I came to the forum for advice. I think he's tired of hearing from me.
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string through
Thanks for the input I appreciate it greatly. That's what I've heard but, what are those subtle differences, brighter? warmer? clearer? I'm trying to assess a new purchase sight unheard and it's difficult.
- Chris Tweed
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For my money I would take a closer look at string thru if you are after warmth and sustain. It terms of the physics, the less that stands between the string and the instrument the better I would think... the vibrations have a shorter route to the body if they are uninterrupted by a bridge -- provided the body is a good resonant wood (and George uses the best materials.)
For brightness or sharper tones I maintain the bridged guitar is going to have an edge (pun intended). A steel bridge will ring more and a brass bridge will be darker.
Without some sound samples or playing them yourself (best) you won't be able to discern this for yourself. Either which way, if you get a GeorgeBoards guitar you are getting your money's worth. I have never read any complaints (of any kind) about his instruments.
For brightness or sharper tones I maintain the bridged guitar is going to have an edge (pun intended). A steel bridge will ring more and a brass bridge will be darker.
Without some sound samples or playing them yourself (best) you won't be able to discern this for yourself. Either which way, if you get a GeorgeBoards guitar you are getting your money's worth. I have never read any complaints (of any kind) about his instruments.
If Music Be the Food of Love, Play On. -Shakespeare
___________________________________________
1941 Ric B6 / 1948 National Dynamic / 1951 Bronson Supro / Custom teak wood Allen Melbert / Tut Taylor Dobro / Gold Tone Dojo / Martin D15S / Eastman P10
___________________________________________
1941 Ric B6 / 1948 National Dynamic / 1951 Bronson Supro / Custom teak wood Allen Melbert / Tut Taylor Dobro / Gold Tone Dojo / Martin D15S / Eastman P10
- Chris Tweed
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- Location: Cardiff, Wales, UK
- John Allison
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The top loading bridge is, in a way, a cleaner "system". In terms of production, it means everything can be routed from the top in one operation with no indexing and counterboring for grommets in the back. That's easier in terms of machining and finishing.
Personally, I think connecting the strings to the body via a few screw threads is not as solid as letting them anchor through the body to a solid metal fixture or grommet in the back, particularly if the body wood is relatively light and soft. If you're dealing with something heavy and hard like ash or maple, there's probably less of an advantage.
Get the string-through, even if it costs more...you won't be disappointed.
Personally, I think connecting the strings to the body via a few screw threads is not as solid as letting them anchor through the body to a solid metal fixture or grommet in the back, particularly if the body wood is relatively light and soft. If you're dealing with something heavy and hard like ash or maple, there's probably less of an advantage.
Get the string-through, even if it costs more...you won't be disappointed.
- Tom Pettingill
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I personally prefer string through the body, but if done right, a top loading bridge can work very well too.
As John eluded too, its the coupling of the bridge and string retainer to the body that is the important variable in the equation.
I've had great luck with this string through set bridge design I've been using.
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As John eluded too, its the coupling of the bridge and string retainer to the body that is the important variable in the equation.
I've had great luck with this string through set bridge design I've been using.
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string through
well I thank you all for some very solid advice. I decided to buy a GeorgeBoards Stealth S8 string through. It looks slick and I've heard a lot of good things. George was super patient with my many questions. Nice guy. Thanks again all. Happy pickin.