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Author Topic:  A question for the C6th steel players
Kevin Klimek


From:
Minnesota, USA
Post  Posted 23 Nov 2010 4:59 pm    
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I hope this doesn't sound like a stupid question. I'm back into steel playing after a long layoff. Mostly I played E9th but I love the C6th sound. So I've been working a lot on that. On the E9th, I sort of consider the #1 and #2 pedals my default foot position. I'm wondering where the serious back neck players normally start out when they're playing that neck? (Standard Copedant). In my case, it seems like pedal 6 and 7 seem to be a good "default" position for me. Let the responses begin and thanks for any info you have for me.
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 23 Nov 2010 5:13 pm    
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When I play C6th my "default" foot position is over pedals 5 & 6. That makes more sense to me because pedal 5 gives you the two chord as a minor seventh or ninth, pedal 6 gives you the four chord as a major or seventh or ninth, and the two pedals together give you a diminished chord; all at the same fret.

Moving the foot to play the 6 & 7 pedals is about like playing the B & C pedals on the E9th; it's no big deal.

That's been my experience, but I've got a long way to go on C6th.
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Steven Welborn

 

From:
Ojai,CA USA
Post  Posted 23 Nov 2010 5:14 pm    
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Id say 5&6 would be more common but 7 would come in a close second.
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Kevin Klimek


From:
Minnesota, USA
Post  Posted 23 Nov 2010 5:43 pm     default position
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I truly appreciate the responses guys. What you say makes a lot of good sense as well. I find the C6th neck so challenging, mysterious but gorgeous sounding musically, but then maybe I'm reading too much into it. That being said...I had been a six stringer all my life; my very first exposure to a steel guitar record was by none other than the great Curly Chalker. As a teenager in the late
60's, I was driving in my car and a local radio station played "King Of The Road" from his 'Big Hits On Big Steel' album. At the time I was a punk kid immersed in Rock and Roll. It moved me so much that I tore home in my car, got to a phone, and called up the station to find out who it was. After that I was hooked. I ordered the album which I still have to this day. It took several years before I finally got the money and the courage to buy my first steel. Sorry to rattle on...but you all know how it goes! Thanks again for the info.
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Chip Fossa

 

From:
Monson, MA, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 23 Nov 2010 5:55 pm    
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Great tale Kevin.

It reminds me of my first encounter with the pedal steel.

...when you have NO CLUE, it hits you hard; especially if you are open-minded.

You gotta go and FIND OUT. What the hell did I just hear? I LOVE IT! I WANT MORE! GIVE ME MORE!
OH PLEASE, GIVE ME MORE!

Thanks Kevin... made my day Very Happy
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Jeff Agnew

 

From:
Dallas, TX
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 3:59 am    
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My foot is centered over the #6 pedal only. Then I pivot for 5&6 or 6&7 without moving my heel. Pedal 6 by itself functions like the AB pedals on E9, moving from a 1 to 4 chord or a 5 to 1.

Also, the 5th pedal produces a 2 dominant seventh, not a minor seventh.
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 8:19 am    
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I like the sound of the 5,6 & 7 together, so I also have the middle G-->F# (5th string) change on a knee lever as well. Amongst other uses, the 3 pedal combo gives you a II dom thirteenth cord.
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Paul Crawford


From:
Orlando, Fl
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 8:37 am    
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I guess once again I'm the outlier here. I learned to play using both feet. I just set the volume to where I want it then keep the left foot over 5 / 6 and the right foot over 7 / 8.
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Larry Bell


From:
Englewood, Florida
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 8:38 am    
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I put P6 on a knee lever for a similar reason, PLUS not wanting to use both feet on the pedals to get P5+7. That was on my last D-10 -- I usually play U12 guitars and all have the B6 equivalent of P6 on a lever.

Some C6 players have P7 or P8 on a lever as well.

FWIW.
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 11:10 am    
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Jeff Agnew is absolutely correct: Pedal 5 gives a dominant seventh (or ninth), not a minor anything. I don't know what I was thinking. I should have known better than to try and give advice regarding C6th.
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Rick Schmidt


From:
Prescott AZ, USA
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 2:18 pm    
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Paul Sutherland wrote:
Jeff Agnew is absolutely correct: Pedal 5 gives a dominant seventh (or ninth), not a minor anything. I don't know what I was thinking. I should have known better than to try and give advice regarding C6th.


Actually Paul...pedal 5 is a great way to get an F#m7-b5 (aka F# "half diminished") with the 9th string as the root. Also it's an Amin6 from the 8th string up.
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 3:26 pm    
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Rick,

I am working on a C6 version of Autumn Leaves and I actually just discovered that m7-b5 about 2 hours ago!

Greg
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John Alexander

 

Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 3:36 pm     Flat 9 Suspended
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I always thought the purpose of pedal 5 was to get a B susb9 in open position, by playing the root of the chord (B) with the tip of the bar on the 10th string, second fret (or leaving it up to the bass player to play the root). It resolves nicely to E6 on fret 4 with pedals up. Cool

Last edited by John Alexander on 24 Nov 2010 4:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
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John Alexander

 

Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 4:33 pm    
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Greg Cutshaw wrote:
Rick,

I am working on a C6 version of Autumn Leaves and I actually just discovered that m7-b5 about 2 hours ago!


A while back it occurred to me that the whole tune could be played with just that one chord (pedal 5), by changing the maj7 chords to dom7 (it sounds a little awkward with the melody here and there, but soloing on the tune it sounds great, provided everyone playing knows the substitutions).

Assuming it's in Gm and the first chord is a Cm, then it would be Cm6, F9, Bb9, Eb9, Am7b5, D alt, Gm6, etc. The D alt (altered) is just Ebm6 with a D in the bass.

All available on pedal 5, though whether the melody notes can be gotten on pedal 5 or with pedal 5 and a knee lever I haven't worked out. But it just illustrates how prevalent that m6/9th/m7b5 sound is in the harmony of that style of music.

FWIW, another common substitution in Autumn Leaves is to split the third measure into two beats each of Bm7 and E7 in place of the Bb9. I think that the version posted a few days ago by Richard Nelson has this or something like it going on, at least in some places.

Another possibility is Dbm7 and Gb7 in place of the first Cm in the first measure. I like the Dbm7 coming out of the preceding Gm7 (at the end of the previous chorus) - it is very surprising and the melody note makes it a minor 9th which sounds cool. A nice example of this is demonstrated by Keith Jarrett in the second full chorus on this YouTube video at about 0:47: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_aEF_ezwhI&feature=related
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Wayne Franco

 

From:
silverdale, WA. USA
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 7:24 pm     I took the standard 7th pedal change completly off my C-6
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Really pedal 6 and 7 together gives you a 13/#11 chord that is used quite a bit. But if you lower your 3rd string 1/2 step and split your fingers between the 1st string and lowered 3rd string (assuming its a D on top) you have the same chord. I now raise my 4th and 8th with the 7th pedal. That is where I "hover" a lot, over the 6th and 7th pedals.

Rick
Do you play strings 3,4,5 and 9 for that half dim. in the open position?. If so you could also call that a 2 dom7th chord.
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Clete Ritta


From:
San Antonio, Texas
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 8:04 pm    
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Im just beginning to learn the C6 neck too.
I use 5 and 6 as the root position for the left foot, similar to A and B on E9.

First thing I worked on figuring out was a 7th chord scale to get my bearings on most of the strings!

Using 2 pedals (5 and 6), and 2 knee levers (RKL raises 3 and 7 a half, CKR raises 10 a whole, lowers 5 a whole) the fret position is the same on guitar ie. the chord scale tones are the same distance of frets as on guitar.
Using fret 3 as the root for instance:
I = 5+RKL on fret 3
ii = CKR on fret 5
iii = CKR on fret7
IV = 5+RKL on fret 8
V7 = 5 on fret 10
vi = CKR on fret 12
viiº = 5+6 on fret 14
(I = 5+RKL on fret 15)

Now Im learning about the other pedals and levers.
Since its okay to use both feet on C6 I usually use the right foot for pedals 7 and 8 (except moving over to 6 and 7). Smile

Clete
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John Alexander

 

Post  Posted 24 Nov 2010 11:52 pm    
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Clete Ritta wrote:
First thing I worked on figuring out was a 7th chord scale to get my bearings on most of the strings!


Great idea. I'm just getting back into playing steel after many years of just playing piano - I can use this, or maybe I should say, I need to do this. Idea
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Scott Henderson


From:
Camdenton, Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 25 Nov 2010 8:17 am    
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I don't have a default position for my foot on C6. My thinking is more on playing of the neck and not the pedals. Chords are just a supplement to me on C6. It also depends on the chart your playing regarding your aproach and what pedals you use.
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Rick Schmidt


From:
Prescott AZ, USA
Post  Posted 25 Nov 2010 12:17 pm    
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I agree with Scott. I don't think of any pedals on C6 as a "home base" in the same way that A&B pedals are on E9. To really play chord melody style the way I like, I need to keep my feet trained to use all the pedals and levers equally at any given moment.

That being said, I find myself using pedal 7 the most for single string stuff. (if I use pedals at all for single lines)

I think the best advice I could give anyone who wants to learn C6 pedal steel would be to sit down and figure out what chords every pedal combination makes from the 4 low strings up. Memorize what the root note is on those strings in the open position. (e.g. String 9 with the 5th pedal is an F#.)
Then find some sheet music for some non 3 chord country song that you like and try to come up with your own arrangement using that technique. Trust me it gets to be more second nature to more you do it, but start out slow as you need to at first.

As you can tell, I love threads about C6!

Cool
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Larry Bell


From:
Englewood, Florida
Post  Posted 25 Nov 2010 3:25 pm    
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Excellent advice from Mr. Rick

Any tuning has simple stuff on the surface. In between the cracks (like, on E9 playing in D or F# using the 9th or 7th as root) is where you'll find the meat.

A closely voiced tuning like C6 has a different chord with each note on 10,9,8,7 used as the root. Take each pedal and combination and map out the scale tones for using 10 as the root, then 9, then 8. 7 is just an octave above 10 but there is some cool stuff there too. Make a chart of every chord you can dream up using a given pedal. Repeat for all the other pedals and pedal/pedal and pedal/lever combinations. You will have an encyclopedia of chords on C6, BUT you will have learned a lot just going through the exercise. You won't get it done in a day or two. It could take years of exploring.

That digs you one layer beyond the obvious but there are more layers to this onion. When you start looking at rootless substitutions (let the bass player play the root and you build from there) the diversity is amazing, BUT YOU HAVE TO HUNT FOR IT. There are many ways to hunt, but an organized approach is always best.

C6 is fun. I play it on B6 but it is the same animal. Oh, and, when I did play C6 on a D10, like Scotty and Rick mentioned above, I never thought of any particular 'home' foot position like on E9. It did depend on the song or mood or chord progression.
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Scott Henderson


From:
Camdenton, Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2010 6:36 pm    
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Larry I started on a uni 12. I think that helped me even more in understanding playing off the top.PLUS you have the access to so man pedal combinations with as many pedals within the B6th tuning.(On my D-10 I have a whole bunch of toys! LOL) Good analogy of the 6th neck Rick and Larry. By Learning how to work the tuning before the pedals helps you with ALL your tunings. I wrote a book on the B6th tuning in the 80s and have considered writing another called..you guess it...Playing off the top.
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Clete Ritta


From:
San Antonio, Texas
Post  Posted 29 Nov 2010 12:35 am    
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Larry Bell wrote:
...A closely voiced tuning like C6 has a different chord with each note on 10,9,8,7 used as the root...

Scott Henderson wrote:
...By Learning how to work the tuning before the pedals helps you with ALL your tunings...


Larry and Scott,
I am glad you mentioned this, because I have found that just playing C6 without pedals is a great way to learn the tuning before the copedent. I love jazz, and E9 has some great chords using the same concept as on C6, and one of the reasons that low D string 9 is a key part of the E9 tuning.
My take on the 5 and 6 pedals is strictly from a beginner perspective. Part of it is just trying to keep it simple at first. On E9, most players probably hover over A and B because those are the most often used. Theres often only three, and some have changed or even discarded the C pedal function, though Im a big fan of the C pedal.
C6 usually has 4 pedals. Pedal 8 (nicknamed boowah) is placed in alternate positions based on its use and convenience to the user, similar to the E9 Franklin pedal. This is probably more evident on U12 where a lever often replaces the low D thats missing but also substitutes for a C6 pedal as Larry mentioned.
C6 is a daunting tuning and copedent that I gather is confounding to many players (myself unabashedly included) because it is capable of so many options. If I could dance around the pedals and levers on C6 like Buzz I would, but that would take several decades, not years. Razz Im just learning how to work the tuning first!

Clete
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Ryan Barwin


From:
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 29 Nov 2010 2:48 pm    
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I keep my foot over the 5th and 6th pedals.
I like to think of my C6th pedals in relation to E9, though this is a huge oversimplification of their function...

P5 is like the A pedal, because of if you slide back 2 frets, you get the dominant 1 chord like you would with the A pedal. I have my C to C# raises on LKL, so P5 works like the A pedal because it's the same motion of sliding up 3 frets and hitting the first pedal and LKL (e.g. A+F) for the next inversion of the root chord.

P6 is like the B pedal because it changes from the 1 chord to the 4 chord. Also the E to F (3rd to 4th) change relates to the G# to A change on the E9 B pedal. On E9, I have the G to F# change split with the B pedal, so I also get a 1 minor voicing with an 11th on top or 4 dominant chord with a root on top (the top note being A on E9th or F on C6th) just as I would with P6 on C6th.

I also do the same physical motion to play the three inversions of the 1 major chord. No pedals, then move up 3 frets with A+F (P5 and C to C#), then move up another 5 frets with A+B (P6).

P7 isn't really like the C pedal, but it's comparable because it takes the root up to a 9th (C to D) like the C pedal does (E to F#).
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Cal Sharp


From:
the farm in Kornfield Kounty, TN
Post  Posted 29 Nov 2010 4:46 pm    
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You guys are confusing me with all this rhetoric about pedals. Smile A lot of the stuff I play on C6th requires minimal pedal activity.

I think a lot of guys approach this neck with the mind set that they're gonna learn a bunch of cool licks, but a better approach might be to learn scales and chords in various positions, as you would on any instrument, and where they lie on the neck, which results in identifying "pockets" all over the neck from which you can play a whole bunch of stuff.
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Wayne Franco

 

From:
silverdale, WA. USA
Post  Posted 29 Nov 2010 5:18 pm     Cal, I think you are right on
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I think the guys that learned from the ground up when pedals were nonexistent know the neck so much better. Problem is a lot of us skipped that step simply because we could. I think in some cases it is actually faster not to use the pedals for single note playing. When I started learning the C-6 neck I using the Emmons course but it took me a long time to realize the importance of the pockets he explains in that course. No pedals there if I recall correctly.
I do think a player will be way ahead of the game if you can find a knowledgeable teacher. It will take years off your beginning advancement. I've been taking lessons over the phone for 3 years. It may or may not work for a beginning student but works great for me since I record everything and catch every scrap. Steel is unique in the sense you can look right at someone and really can't tell what they are doing. Also, I don't live in Nashville where there would be access to great teachers.
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