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Post new topic Glue for formica
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Author Topic:  Glue for formica
Pat Comeau


From:
New Brunswick, Canada
Post  Posted 26 Nov 2010 9:41 pm    
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Any other good glue for formica other than contact cement? Rolling Eyes

thanks
Pat C. Smile
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 27 Nov 2010 7:39 am    
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pat, never heard of any othe rglue than contact cement. It's been used thru the ages for gluing formica on table tops, counter tops etc .So I will say it has proven itself.
Applied correctly, it will hold forever.
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Jerry Jones


From:
Franklin, Tenn.
Post  Posted 27 Nov 2010 7:56 am    
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I was experimenting with Formica some years ago and obtained some sample HPL (high pressure laminate) glue from Franklin (Tite-Bond). It looks much like regular Tite-Bond wood glue, and the chemist said it was more or less the same product as Tite-Bond II. I’m assuming it would have to be applied in a press.
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Bill Ford


From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
Post  Posted 27 Nov 2010 11:39 am    
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Jerry Jones wrote:
I was experimenting with Formica some years ago and obtained some sample HPL (high pressure laminate) glue from Franklin (Tite-Bond). It looks much like regular Tite-Bond wood glue, and the chemist said it was more or less the same product as Tite-Bond II. I’m assuming it would have to be applied in a press.


I read/heard somewhere that this was the process that Emmons used, don't know for sure if it was this brand of glue tho.

BF
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Robert Murphy


From:
West Virginia
Post  Posted 27 Nov 2010 7:59 pm    
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I've been assembling countertops for 40 years, 3M spray adhesive will work well and it's easy to use. It will not take heat like contact cement but we don't cook on our guitars or do we?
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Stu Schulman


From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
Post  Posted 27 Nov 2010 8:12 pm    
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What is the best way to remove a piece of Formica from an aluminum pedal rack?The Formica was put on with contact cement. Winking
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Bill Ford


From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2010 5:08 am    
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Stu,
A heat gun/high temp hair dryer will do it, start at one corner heat and lift. Lacquer thinner or a like solvent will get the glue residue off. A word of caution, good ventilation, or do it outside when working with any solvent.

Bill
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Don McGregor

 

From:
Memphis, Tennessee
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2010 5:25 am    
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I've always wondered if contact cement was such a good idea if one is looking to maximize sustain on an instrument. Seems like using what amounts to a thin sheet of rubber to laminate Formica to a hard surface sort of works against the purpose.
On the other hand, a regular wood glue like Titebond gets pretty hard, and might not do well on solid wood, as wood contracts and expands with changes in the weather, and Formica doesn't. May be fine with a good, hard plywood.
I'm curious to see more opinions.
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Len Amaral

 

From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2010 6:26 am    
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I seem to remember Bobbe Seymour mentioning that formica on the body of a steel guitar has to be installed under pressure to get the the proper tone from the body.
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Richard Damron


From:
Gallatin, Tennessee, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2010 6:55 am    
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From the folks who make the stuff. Go to adhesives.

http://www.formica.co.uk/publish/site/eu/uk/en/home.html
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Jerry Jones


From:
Franklin, Tenn.
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2010 7:31 am    
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I did find different expansion rates between wood and Formica, but that was over a distance of 13”. A steel guitar deck is more like 5” and may not be a problem. I’ve never built a steel cabinet, but I would guess that slab sawn grain for the decks would be more stable. The upper and lower decks on my steel cabinet are connected with screws and to some degree, can expand and contract independently.

Finishing the underside of the deck is also necessary to minimize any uneven wood movement.

Someone on the forum once suggested that the decks are glued in a press and the aprons are glued with contact cement.
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Richard Damron


From:
Gallatin, Tennessee, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2010 8:03 am    
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Jerry Jones -

I'm not gettin' nit-picky but I can add a little to your post.

First, go to the link that I posted above. A wide range of adhesive types are listed and somewhat evaluated. Good info.

Second, I'd suspect that quarter-sawn - as opposed to slab-sawn - wood would be more stable. Virtually all of the good classic guitars, violins etc., will use quarter-sawn spruce for the tops for strength and stability. The closer the grain lines, the stronger it is.

As an aside - no one has investigated this as it applies to the PSG - the velocity of propagation of acoustic waves and the loss (attenuation, damping) in wood varies greatly with the grain versus across the grain. Does this have an effect upon the "tone" (hate that word) of the instrument? Maybe one of these years someone will do the necessary research.

In any case, the answer to the adhesive question will most likely be found in the link which I've supplied.

Respectfully,

Richard
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Stu Schulman


From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2010 8:27 am    
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Bill Ford,Thanks a bunch! Winking
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Joe Naylor


From:
Avondale, Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2010 1:51 pm    
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Stu - I agree with Bill Ford except for the outside in Alaska might be a bit much - but other than that he is right on.

Joe Naylor
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Stu Schulman


From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2010 4:12 pm    
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Joe,I can do it on my front porch,can handle anything about 5 above just a T-Shirt. Winking
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