I understand you have old Marlen parts. Looking for bell cranks for 5\16th aluminum cross shafts, pull-release type.
Thanks,
CB
For Mike Calloway ---Old Marlen Parts
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CB Blackwell
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Ned McIntosh
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CB,
I emailed Mike re the same parts and he has none of the old pull-release style, he basically built the all-pull Marlens which came after the pull-release models. These won't work on pull-release Marlens. Forum member Jim Flynn may have some (he mills them up he he needs them), or you could just get the dimensions and have a machine-shop mill up some blanks and drill the holes yourself.
I have a Marlen with the old single-sided pull-release bellcranks and I wanted to make them double-sided so the rods could run through them in straight lines to the fingers, rather than bending to go around other bellcranks. This results in a tidier underside and aids setting up and tuning stability.
I modified them by rivetting a plate to the side and drilling the holes to match the existing ones. Hand-filing the ends to the rounded shape resulted in bellcranks through which multiple rods can run in a straight line. Since I used thinner rods, I also had to make up rod-clamps, rod-guides and stop-collars sized for the thinner rod.
Below is a shot of a partially-modified bellcrank with a brass rod-clamp (threaded 8-32) and a white Delrin rod-guide, as well as an aluminium stop-collar to suit my locally-sourced 2.4mm stainless-steel rods.
The plate rivetted to the bellcrank has yet to be filed to the rounded shape at the ends. The finger-spacing on the Marlen pull-release is 0.35", so the bellcranks need to be no thicker than this. (Mine are a few thou thinner.)
I used AN426 countersunk aircraft rivets, diagonally arranged at the 5/16" hole for the cross-shaft. These are set in countersunk holes so they are flush with the bellcrank's surface and don't add thickness.
I can measure up the bellcranks and let you know the dimensions if you decide to get some made.
I emailed Mike re the same parts and he has none of the old pull-release style, he basically built the all-pull Marlens which came after the pull-release models. These won't work on pull-release Marlens. Forum member Jim Flynn may have some (he mills them up he he needs them), or you could just get the dimensions and have a machine-shop mill up some blanks and drill the holes yourself.
I have a Marlen with the old single-sided pull-release bellcranks and I wanted to make them double-sided so the rods could run through them in straight lines to the fingers, rather than bending to go around other bellcranks. This results in a tidier underside and aids setting up and tuning stability.
I modified them by rivetting a plate to the side and drilling the holes to match the existing ones. Hand-filing the ends to the rounded shape resulted in bellcranks through which multiple rods can run in a straight line. Since I used thinner rods, I also had to make up rod-clamps, rod-guides and stop-collars sized for the thinner rod.
Below is a shot of a partially-modified bellcrank with a brass rod-clamp (threaded 8-32) and a white Delrin rod-guide, as well as an aluminium stop-collar to suit my locally-sourced 2.4mm stainless-steel rods.
The plate rivetted to the bellcrank has yet to be filed to the rounded shape at the ends. The finger-spacing on the Marlen pull-release is 0.35", so the bellcranks need to be no thicker than this. (Mine are a few thou thinner.)
I used AN426 countersunk aircraft rivets, diagonally arranged at the 5/16" hole for the cross-shaft. These are set in countersunk holes so they are flush with the bellcrank's surface and don't add thickness.
I can measure up the bellcranks and let you know the dimensions if you decide to get some made.
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