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Topic: Where does a newbie start? |
Mike Davidson
From:
New Mexico, USA
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 4:29 am |
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| I've played guitar and a few other instruments for near 40 years but have always wanted to try my hand at steel guitar. I'm ready to jump in. I find the choices with pedals, number of strings, single or double neck a bit overwhelming. Just want to play a little crazy arms and some blues and spend between 800 to 2200 and I'm afraid of making a $$$ mistake. Advice appreciated. |
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Karen Sarkisian
From:
Boston, MA, USA
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 4:32 am
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I bought a used Stage One E9, an Ernie Ball volume pedal and a dunlop tone bar. Winnie Winston's Steel Guitar Book and Bruce Boutons DVD. That got me started and hooked!! People on this forum are super helpful for any questions you might have.
_________________
Emmons, Franklin, Mullen |
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John McClung
From:
Olympia WA, USA
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 8:17 am
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Mike, I'd like to modify Karen's excellent suggestions in just one way: invest in a Goodrich, Hilton or Telonics volume pedal; Ernie Ball pedals have the cord jacks in locations not ideal for pedal steel players.
Of those 3, a standard Goodrich pedal is best bang for the buck, and an H10K or L10K are my fave for reliability and sound. Hilton and Telonics are excellent, don't have scratchy pot problems, but are higher cost.
I teach lessons live and via Skype video chat, too, so if you can't find a local teacher, contact me through my website and let's talk. I also have a PDF with sound advice on buying your first steel and accessories, get me your normal email address and I'll email you that.
http://steelguitarlessons.com
All best,
John McClung
_________________
E9 INSTRUCTION
▪️ If you want to have an ongoing discussion, please email me, don't use the Forum messaging which I detest! steelguitarlessons@earthlink.net |
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Alfred Ewell
From:
Virginia, USA
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 9:05 am Re: Where does a newbie start?
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| Mike Davidson wrote: |
| I've played guitar and a few other instruments for near 40 years but have always wanted to try my hand at steel guitar. I'm ready to jump in... |
Mike, you're lucky - kinda wish I'd found the forum sooner. But I reckon I did OK finding a Red Baron on craigslist - maybe $250 was too much. But I've learned to work on it without fearing breaking it  so there's that. It's got a volume pedal built in - unusual. My tone bar's too small, my picks suck but it still sounds nice when I pick through a song as I make it up. (Like when I play harmonica  ) It's so much harder than fiddle, which most say is hard - I got that pretty good in a few months, but the PSG has got so much going for it that even a S10-3-1 will keep you busy a while. And Winnie Winston is a great book, both from having mine and from advice from a local steeler. But - in your advantageous position... you could get something to last you longer - some number more pedals, more levers - and get a good deal here in the for sales. Good luck! |
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Brett Day
From:
Pickens, SC
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 11:26 am
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Mike, you'll be playing a wonderful instrument when you start playin' steel. There are so many great steel companies. I play a Jackson Blacjack Custom. The Jackson Steel Guitar Co. is founded by David and Harry Jackson, who are the sons of Shot Jackson, who founded and built Sho-Bud steel guitars. They build awesome steel guitars that are perfect for any level. The best thing to do if you want to try out a steel is to go to a steel guitar show. There are vendors at the shows who have different guitars to try out and see. You'll be amazed when you start playin' and the more you play, the more you'll love it!
Brett |
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Stuart Legg
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 12:07 pm
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No. 1. Accessorize You must look like a steel player.
No. 2. Starch and iron creases in you shirts and pants. Or wear a Tux.
No. 3 Learn to project arrogance.
No. 4 Your Steel guitar must be clean shinny and not have blemishes or scratches.
No. 5 Post on the forum at least 5 times a detailed analyzes of how you tune your Steel.
Last but not least
No. 6 Read all of Bill Hankey’s Forum topics
P.S never use anything less than a 15" speaker unless of course it's an output challenged NV112. |
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Michael Robertson
From:
Ventura, California. USA
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 12:13 pm Being patient
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Mike, welcome to the world of frustration and great satisfaction.
Regardless of what equipment you decide to purchase, be it entry level or professional grade,
I would like to address your question”Where does a newbie start”?I would suggest you make a case history of the open tuning and understand the relationship of all strings to each other, for example the 1 the 3rd the 5 the 9 and so on.
As you start to use different grips, teach yourself what each note is in reference to the triad you’re holding. Again the 1 the 3rd and others.
When starting with pedals and levers pay attention to the note being changed and how the next triad is being built.
Down the road having this knowledge will be priceless.
Like you I played different instruments and just wanted to get busy playing music.
I got off on the wrong foot and didn’t pay any attention to these inner actions, such as, why this pedal does this and that and what it does to the chord I was holding.
Months later I had to drop back start over and relearn what it was I was doing as opposed to what I wanted to play.
Being patient is not one of my virtues.
Good luck and have fun
Michael |
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Kevin Hatton
From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 12:21 pm
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| A divorce lawyer and a psychiatrist. |
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Ben Jones
From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 1:32 pm Re: Where does a newbie start?
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| Mike Davidson wrote: |
| I've played guitar and a few other instruments for near 40 years but have always wanted to try my hand at steel guitar. I'm ready to jump in. I find the choices with pedals, number of strings, single or double neck a bit overwhelming. Just want to play a little crazy arms and some blues and spend between 800 to 2200 and I'm afraid of making a $$$ mistake. Advice appreciated. |
Hi Mike,
Start with a single neck ten string (we call that an S10 or SD10) with no fewer than 4 knee levers and three pedals (4x3). a more typical setup is 5 x 3, 5 knees and three pedals. I would recommend a used Pro Model over the various student models because if you give up on the steel , you will be able to get your money back in resale whereas a new student guitar will loose value once used. The best way to find a used guitar is thru other steelers in your area. If you cannot find someone to help you in yur area, there are some nice guitars for sale here on the forum. Theres a nice SD10 there now with 5x3 for under $1400 from a reputable seller.
Since you are a longtime guitar player perhaps you already have a fender or musicman amplifier you could use for steel?
Ive been playing 4 years. Most of the people here know more than I do and hopefully they will chime in and either concur with what i said or correct my advice.
best fo luck. |
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Brick Spieth
From:
San Jose, California, USA
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 2:40 pm
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I started on a Stage One. It was more than acceptable, and I easily could be playing it two years down the road, but after a short time I knew I wanted to continue so I got an SD10 pro guitar.
I can now evaluate a steel, but starting out I could not so I bought a used guitar from a dealer, Jim Palanscar of Steel Guitars of North County. No regrets.
Although there is a lot of learning material out there, I do better with a teacher, and paying someone regularly helps keep me motivated and focused, and the learning process on an accelerated path.
I do Skype with John McClung. He has an orderly and logical approach to learning the beast.
I love the sound of C6 but don't want to clutter my already feeble mind with another tuning right now, but I know I will want to someday, so if the right deal comes along, heck, why not get a D10?
It helps to live with tolerant people. And you may as well buy a lapsteel and a dobro while you are buying a pedal steel....you know you want to. |
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Rick Barnhart
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 2:45 pm Advice appreciated
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Run away!
_________________
Clinesmith consoles D-8/6 5 pedal, D-8 3 pedal & A25 Frypan, Pettingill Teardrop, & P8 Deluxe. |
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Jim Eaton
From:
Santa Susana, Ca
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 2:59 pm
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Get the Winnie Winston book. Read it from cover to cover and then do it again and again and again!!!
JE:-)> |
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Mike Davidson
From:
New Mexico, USA
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 4:10 pm
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Well I've paid the retainer for the shrink and I'm going shopping for steel guitar clothes tomorrow.
@John my real email is mwd at yucca [dot] net
I've got a pretty sweet guitar rig I run into Sennheiser headphones. So I won't irritate the neighbors or my sweetheart. For a while at least.
I appreciate this info. I'm seeing some common denominators as to some must have books. |
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Elton Smith
From:
Texas, USA
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 4:37 pm
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Well,no guts no glory.Welcome aboard.
_________________
Gibson Les Paul
Reverend Avenger
Paul Reed Smith
Fender Telecaster
MSA S10 Classic
ShoBud
Old Peavy Amps |
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Jimmy Douglas
From:
Raceview, Queensland, Australia
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 5:13 pm
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| Kevin, That was very funny and not far off from the truth.I think a S-10 with 3 and 4 and a good teacher like John will get you going in no time. Good luck Mike |
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Stephen Cordingley
From:
Ontario, Canada
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Posted 24 Sep 2010 6:08 pm
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here's my unsolicited 2 cents:
get an S10 3+4
if you start off with an Emmons set up, you're probably in the majority (arguably easiest to buy/sell)
get the Mel Bay Deluxe Pedal Steel Method book (with cd) by Dewitt Scott - people recommend the Winston book, but Scott's method progresses in a more logical way for the beginner, imho - the Mel Bay book starts of with some single note melodies that are relatively simple to pick out - the book later progresses to double and triple note grips, which can be challenging for a beginner - the Winston book throws some tougher grips and some fancier fills at you in the first few songs, which I found initially overwhelming (eventually, you may read the Winston book cover to cover, but I don't think it's the best first book from which to try to play tab)
also, Jeff Newman's "Right Hand Alpha" video can set you on the right track, technique wise
no matter what, make sure you have a couple thousand hours to spare to get past the initial fumbling...then you can really start to get somewhere (if you're as non-dextrous as I am)
Good luck and enjoy! |
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David Hartley
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Posted 25 Sep 2010 1:13 am Hi Mike
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Welcome..
Drop me an email at mr.davidhartley@btinternet.com and I will send you something you will like and that will help you on your way, with my compliments.
Let me know what you bought yourself in the email.
David. |
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Karen Sarkisian
From:
Boston, MA, USA
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Posted 25 Sep 2010 4:37 am
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| Kevin Hatton wrote: |
| A divorce lawyer and a psychiatrist. |
_________________
Emmons, Franklin, Mullen |
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Ken Metcalf
From:
San Antonio Texas USA
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Posted 25 Sep 2010 5:05 am
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I would suggest getting Band in a box or some sort of rhythm tracks to practice with.
Then; as soon as possible go out with a real band and make a fool out of your self... People just love the sound of a steel guitar
_________________
MSA 12 String E9th/B6th Universal.
Little Walter PF-89.
Bunch of stomp boxes |
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Ron Davis
From:
Lake Arrowhead, California... We're a mile high. ;)
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Posted 25 Sep 2010 5:08 am
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Anyone know where to get Jeff Newman's RIght Hand Alpha?
Cant find it for sale anywhere...
_________________
Emmons 12 p/p, Revelation, Black Widows, (& way too many assorted goodies...)
Drummer with a pedal steel fantasy. 
www.LA-Zep.com
www.Desperado1.com
www.CMWChicagoTribute.com |
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Rick Winfield
From:
Pickin' beneath the Palmettos
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Posted 25 Sep 2010 6:08 am suggestions
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Winnie Winstons "Pedal Steel Guitar" book.
Read it, play it, live it, love it !
Guitars:
minimum 10 strings, 3 pedals, 3 levers, E9th.
In your price range, there is much available, new and used.
IMHO: get a pro model
Rick |
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Jim Parker
From:
Michigan, USA
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Ben Jones
From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
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Posted 25 Sep 2010 6:52 am
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I am kind of surprised at some of the responses in this thread. i think the OP was merely asking what kind of guitar a newb should get . 
SD10 or S10 with 3x5, used pro guitar if you want to retain resale value. |
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Rick Winfield
From:
Pickin' beneath the Palmettos
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Posted 25 Sep 2010 8:13 am Carter
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If Ben is correct,
I suggest a new, or fairly new Carter 3x5. Modern, all-pull mechanics, enough changes to keep you busy for a lifetime, and in your price range. They are smooth, accurate, easy adjustable action on all pedals and levers, stays in tune, doesn't break strings. Just tune and play. Tone? I like mine, but we all know thats a subjective, sensitive topic.
Rick
PS: I own a S10DB, 3x5, black mica, w/black sculpted
pad, so....many I'm a little biased |
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Ned McIntosh
From:
New South Wales, Australia
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Posted 25 Sep 2010 1:27 pm
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I second the suggestion of a new or near-new Carter S10 with 3 and 5 (or 4 and 5 if you want the Franklin Change). Great steels, huge tone, easy to set up, maintain and adjust, and once set up they just keep on keeping on. You will not go wrong with one.
Winnie's book is great, and anything from Jeff Newman's teaching material is value.
You've already made a great start, Mike; you're on the forum!
_________________
The steel guitar is a hard mistress. She will obsess you, bemuse and bewitch you. She will dash your hopes on what seems to be whim, only to tease you into renewing the relationship once more so she can do it to you all over again...and yet, if you somehow manage to touch her in that certain magic way, she will yield up a sound which has so much soul, raw emotion and heartfelt depth to it that she will pierce you to the very core of your being. |
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