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Topic: Speaker Problem |
Ben Turner
From: Myrtle Beach, SC, USA (deceased)
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Posted 4 Sep 2010 10:49 pm
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My ext. cab cut out. Don't know how long ago, I usually stack them high and not wide. I down-stacked them tonight for a different sound and noticed it wasn't playing. I removed the front grill and unplugged the main speaker in the actual combo and just plugged the ext. speaker in as the primary, when I push on the cone it plays, when I let it go it stops. It seems like theres a short in the voice coil maybe? Is it blown, or what? All of the wiring is fine, if it was in the wiring the speaker wouldn't play by pushing the cone in, I wouldn't think.
AMP: Webb 614E
EXT: Webb
Speakers: BW 1502-4 _________________ Benjamin Turner |
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Jack Stoner
From: Kansas City, MO
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 1:56 am
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You can buy a new "spider" replacement for the Peavey. Unbolt the magnet from the bad one and install it on the new one. |
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Ben Turner
From: Myrtle Beach, SC, USA (deceased)
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 2:08 am
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That don't really explain to me what's wrong with it. or how it happened for that matter. How would I go about getting a replacement, and how much are they?
Thanks  _________________ Benjamin Turner |
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Jack Stoner
From: Kansas City, MO
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 4:29 am
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Not sure what is exactly wrong with the speaker, could be the voice coil is rubbing and binding slightly, but in any case the fix is to replace the "spider" (speaker minus the magnet). You will have to go through a Peavey dealer and most likely they will have to order one they normally do not stock them. If you are lucky Peavey will have one in stock, if not you will have to wait until it's made which can be a long wait. I don't remember what the price is for a spider assembly but I would guess about $100 or maybe less. |
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Ben Turner
From: Myrtle Beach, SC, USA (deceased)
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 5:19 am
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Thanks for the added description.
What's a good alternative to the 1501 or 1502's? The amp came with a 1501-4, the ext cab (the one that went bad) came with a 1502-4. None of which were stock speakers for Webb amps, I don't think. _________________ Benjamin Turner |
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Dick Sexton
From: Greenville, Ohio
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 6:40 am Intermittant Speaker..
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Ben, Jack is absolutely correct, it may take a new speaker. But I have seen this happen a few times. There are two flexible wires that connect the speaker coil to the connections on the speaker. These allow the speaker cone to move and still get the audio signal. It is slightly possible that one of these wires are broken either at the speaker cone or at the speaker connector. This is not something that usually happens to higher end speakers, but does happen. Especially in a salt spray or wet condition, like might be present in the beach area. Usually corrosion induced and difficult to repair. If it is bad, go to Jacks "Plan A". I've seen dozens on shrimp boats and pleasure craft and a repair job usually didn't last to long. |
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Jim Palenscar
From: Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 4:05 pm
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I believe that I have a 1502 Spider basket at the shop. |
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Ben Turner
From: Myrtle Beach, SC, USA (deceased)
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 4:12 pm
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Jim, Larry Petree also has some used and new baskets. Too bad you're both in California! What would shipping be from Cali on just a basket replacement? _________________ Benjamin Turner |
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Jim Palenscar
From: Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 4:33 pm
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About $12 I think. |
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Mike Wheeler
From: Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 7:21 pm
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Ben, your symptom doesn't sound like a bad voice coil, but rather a bad spider wire connection.
Take a look at the tinsel wires that go from the speaker cone to the connection terminals. One of them may have broken loose and might be repairable. I've seen that happen many times. _________________ Best regards,
Mike |
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Pit Lenz
From: Cologne, Germany
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 9:10 pm
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Ben,
Your problem could either be electrical or mechanical.
if you have a multimeter, measure the resistance between the speaker posts.
If it is infinitive Ohms, you have an electrical problem (interruption):
Check the wiring as described in the posts above for interruptions.
If you get some signal while pushing in the cone, I think that the coil itself is not blown.
If it reads 8 Ohms or a little less, the coil is (electrically) ok.
Then move on to mechanical problems:
Now push the cone in (apply centered pressure carefully)- does it move freely and comes back to it´s original position? Does it scratch or sound mechanically funny?
You say that the sound comes with pressing the cone.
Does it go on and off slowly with increased pressure or is it like switched on and off ?
Maybe the coil is not properly glued to the cone anymore.
In this case the coil will still be driven by the amp but can not forward its movement to the cone, unless you press them together.
You´re possibly in for a new basket, but this may help to find out what really went wrong... |
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Ben Turner
From: Myrtle Beach, SC, USA (deceased)
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 9:31 pm
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I checked the tinsel wires like suggested, they seemed to have been bent under, and not straight out. I bent them out and now I have sound, but the sound is distorted really bad. Before, the sound was only coming from the speaker when I would push on the cone, when I'd let go the sound would immediately cease. Now with the tinsel wire terminals bent outward instead of inward I get sound, but it's distorted. Would it make a difference that I've been using a standard instrument cable instead of an actual speaker cable? I wouldn't think so considering it sounded fine for several months.
The questions is, new basket or new speaker all together. If I decide not to use the same model speaker what can I get on the market that's close to the 1501/1502? _________________ Benjamin Turner |
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Pit Lenz
From: Cologne, Germany
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 9:43 pm
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Don´t worry, theoretically a speaker cable with larger wire diameter would be more elegant, but with average amp volume, an instrument cable would work just fine, no problem with that.
Can´t help you with the basket/speaker question, though... |
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Ben Turner
From: Myrtle Beach, SC, USA (deceased)
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 10:03 pm
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I don't play at normal volumes. I drive the crap out of my amp, I play a lot of bigger places usually. and the smaller places the bands I play with usually don't mic up or DI. I play with some damn loud people. That make a difference now on the current-flow through the cable? I mean I'll get a cable, just to make things legit for future gigs. It's evident the speaker needs replacement of some kind anyway at this point.  _________________ Benjamin Turner |
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Pit Lenz
From: Cologne, Germany
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Posted 5 Sep 2010 11:35 pm
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Quote: |
I drive the crap out of my amp |
Still, the guitar cable shold work. When I wrote "normal volume" i was referring to a guitar amp´s wattage ,as opposed to a, say, 3000 Watts PA amp.
And, as you say, it always worked so far.... |
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David Nugent
From: Gum Spring, Va.
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Posted 6 Sep 2010 2:28 am
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Excuse me for getting slightly off topic, do Webb amps allow you to run a 4ohm extension cab in conjunction with a 4ohm main speaker? Would this not result in a 2ohm amp load or am I mistaken? |
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Ben Turner
From: Myrtle Beach, SC, USA (deceased)
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Posted 6 Sep 2010 3:37 am
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I've often wondered that too, David. Maybe someone can answer that question while we're at it. Having installed numerous car stereos and owning my own business in that field I know about wiring speakers and the change of ohm ratings and I often wondered if it's the same for guitar amps. I'd think it would be the same? Maybe the experts will chime in.
What I do know: It says 2, 4 or 8 ohms on the speaker jacks in the rear which means it's stable at 2, 4 or 8 ohms. I believe the amp pushes an RMS of 165 @ 4 and the whole 225 @ 2. So if two SVC speakers running 4 ohms were wired in parallel would equal 2 ohms. The amp states it supports 2, 4 or 8 so I don't think it would be a problem? The 2 4 ohm SVC speakers wired in series would still be 8 ohms so either way I'd think it's safe. _________________ Benjamin Turner |
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Mike Wheeler
From: Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 6 Sep 2010 5:59 am
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Ben, the next thing to look at is the voice coil gap. That's the area where the voice coil fits into the magnet structure.
Lay the amp face down and, remove the speaker. then lay the speaker face down and remove the 3 socket head screws, then carefully lift the magnet straight up off of the basket. Now turn the magnet face up on the table and use some masking tape to clean out the circular gap that the voice coil rides in.
Your distortion could be debris in this gap. I use a thin piece of plastic lighting gel material about a half inch wide and wrap the tape around it, sticky side out. That provides enough stiffness to guide the tape around the gap. Do that with several fresh pieces of tape, to make sure you get all the debris. Also, inspect the voice coil for signs of scuffing. (Scuffing could be the cause of the distortion...which means you'll need a new basket.)
To remount the basket, place the magnet face up and carefully guide the voice coil back into the gap until it's fully seated. Now, while holding the basket and magnet tightly together, turn the assembly over, face down, and line up the screw holes by rotating the magnet. Reinstall the screws, and test it.
If none of this helps, you''ll need a new basket assembly. _________________ Best regards,
Mike |
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Mike Wheeler
From: Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 6 Sep 2010 6:11 am
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One more tip about the speaker wire. For a short run of a foot or two, a guitar cable can be used. But for longer runs you really need speaker wire...16 or 14 gauge. The longer the run, the larger gauge (smaller the gauge number...14 is larger than 16)
The reason is that the thinner center conductor/wire of a guitar cable raises the impedance the amp sees, and you will loose some power as a result. Speaker cables use larger gauge wire to provide the best power transfer to the speaker, and to not cause significant impedance changes for the amp.
I'd advise getting speaker cables for your rig. _________________ Best regards,
Mike |
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