It WAS a simple fix.... Now I know - Thanks to you all!

[Kenn Geiger]

I am trying to learn to play the PSG. I bought a S12 MSA Classic in a pawn shop mainly because the Pedals are in the 3,4 & 5 position and easier for me to use. I set it up for Extended E9 (at least I tuned the strings for it) The problem is that the pedals now hit the floor when I depress them now - they didn't when I got it and brought it home but I set it up today after repairing a couple of the knees and I don't know what I did - The pedal bar attaches through drilled holes in the legs so the bar is the same distance from the floor. If I pull out more leg, the holes stay the same distance from the end. I think there is a 2 inch lift on the rods, but little room for adjustment. I will try to attach a picture of the steel and a rod end. I am open to suggestions. Thank you

Kenn

[Jim Eaton]

Try "extending" the back legs a little bit.
It might make your guitar be a bit tilted, but it should stop you pedals from bottoming out.
I just looked at your photo again and if that is shag carpet it's sitting on, that is the problem!
The leg ends sink into the carpet and your pedals hit rug before they get to the stop. Had that happen on a few stages at clubs over the years.
Put an ash tray off the tables under each front leg and made it work for the nights gig.
JE:-)>

[Lamar Colvin]

Kenn;
If you have 2 inch extensions on the rods,you need to install 2 inch spacers on the front legs between the pedal rack and the clutch to prevent slippage.

[David Nugent]

Kenn...If memory serves me correctly, the pedals on the Classics have three threaded holes into which the ball connecters can be installed. You might try moving the connecters to the holes on the rear of the pedals, this should raise the pedal height and also decrease the amount of pedal travel required to raise the strings to pitch.

[Bob Tuttle]

Like Lamar said, you need some spacers on the legs, above the pedal bar so the legs won't slip down when you mash the pedals. The spacers should be the same length as the pedal rod extenders. Some people use pieces of pvc pipe cut to the exact length needed.

[Jerry Roller]

I would loosen the clutch on the front legs and see if the legs will move in (get shorter). If they will not then there are dowels of some sort inside the legs which means you can unscew the clutch, pull the inside section of the leg out and drop a few pennies inside the leg and put it back together. This would make the front leg slightly longer but would make the pedal a lot further from the floor due to the "leveraging". If the leg will collapse when you loosen the clutch you need to cut a dowel or piece of PVC pipe to the proper length to put inside the leg to make it slightly longer than it is now and keep it from collapsing. A 1/8" increase in length with raise the pedal about 3/8".
Jerry

[John Bechtel]

If your pedal-rods have 2” extensions on them and the guitar sits too high for you, simply remove the extensions. If you need the 2” extra height, then you need a 2” space between the pedal-bar and the clutch. Since the legs are most likely to colapse under pressure, it is adviseable to either slip a 2” collar over the leg-extension or drill a tiny hole in the extension and fill the hole by tapping in a similar size spring-pin or a small screw. Then the extension will remain in place at the proper length. I usually insert a 1/16” dia. spring-pin, even w/o the lift-kit. do that on 3-legs and use just the 4th. leg to level the guitar in any situation. I alway level the PSG using the rear-leg on the keyhead-end of the instrument.

[Jerry Roller]

You know? I think after looking at the photo of the pedal rod I would just remove the 2" extensions, cut about 1/4" off of them and put them back together. Is there no remaining threads on the rod that you can adjust the extension and shorten the rods a little bit?
Jerry

[John Bechtel]

The way the pedal-rod looks to me, it appears to have at least an inch of exposed thread remaining. Simply screw the extension farther onto the rod to shorten it! If you cut anything off of the extension, you might run out of threads and would need to rethread them! (Just a thought!)

[Jerry Roller]

Whoops, sorry, my trigger finger is faster than my thinking thing.
Jerry

[Jerry Roller]

John, my old eyes aren't good enough to see if he has any threads left, if so that should be the answer. The only thing that troubles me is that he stated that he did not have this problem when he first got the guitar. I wonder what changed.
Jerry

[John Bechtel]

Jerry; I don't quite understand how the problem came about either! According to what I see in the picture, the legs appear to be extended 2” and the extensions are 2” also! The only thing I can imagine is that a gremlin has unscrewed the extensions on the pedal-rods! Now, who could have done that? I don't think you did it and I know I didn't do it! hummmm!!

[Kenn Geiger]

Jon Light sent me an email telling me what probably happened. I checked it and he as correct. The front legs collapsed causing the pedals to sit flat on the ground. I pulled them out again, it was fine until I actually pressed the pedal with my foot and it collapsed.

My first thought was to take a soft nosed plier to it - probably would have stripped it. I believe the answer is from you guys - I need to put something in behind the extensions to stop them from collapsing.

I would like to take the 2" extensions off and try it without to see it I can operate the LKV. If so then I am back off to the races.

I really appreciate the responses. I could not see the problem because I was too involved with it. I still can't play worth a hoot, but I really have a good time trying.

Thanks again

Kenn Geiger

[John Bechtel]

The only reason for a lift-kit in the first place is to increase clearence under the changer for your right-foot resting on your volume-pedal. If you have enough clearence for your right leg, then you don't want the lift-kit! However, if you actually need a lift-kit, then most PSG have a height-adjustment for vertical KL's too! Sometimes it's not obvious, but; it's usualy there somewhere!

[Jerry Roller]

Ken, if you do need the height, give some thought to taking the leg apart and inserting the proper length of a dowel from a hardware store, a piece of hot water PVC pipe or anything that will fit inside the large tube. Some trial and error might be necessary to determine how long it needs to be but do that and the legs can't collapse. You don't need a spacer on the leg between the pedal bar and clutch because your pedal bar is bolted on so it can't move. I think you are on your way now. Over and out for me.
Jerry

[Jim Smith]

5/8" wooden dowel from the hardware store works great inside the legs. It's cheap and usually comes in a 3' length, so you can make plenty of wrong cuts and still git'er done.

[Bobby D. Jones]

Been there done that and have the scars to prove it. My steel is a MSA S10 classic. The leg collapsed and the same thing happened to me. Check the rubber caps on the end of the legs,remove see if something collapsed in there. Mine are 1 3/8" bottom of rubber foot to bottom of pedal bar. I ended up putting close fitting dowel rod. shoved clear to the top screw where goes in the body of steel. Then drilled the hole for the bar screw, through dowel. then cut the dowel even with end of leg. put rubber foot on leg,and that cured it. Hope this will help you. Happy Steelin

[Bobby D. Jones]

Had a senior moment. you will have to adjust the leg length to get the pedals the right height before installing the dowels in the legs.

[Mike Perlowin]

I suggest you take it to Tom Bradshaw. It's a long drive, but it will be with it. He will not just fix the problem, but show you exactly what it was so that you will know what to do if it re-occurs.

One of the most valuable lessons I ever had when I was starting out was how to work on my steel. (I called Blackie Taylor and booked a lesson, but I didn't tell him what I wanted. he assumed I wanted a lesson in how to play and was surprised when I said "teach me how to take this thing apart.)

I think everybody should have at least some knowledge of how the instrument works and some skills in making adjustments and minor repairs.

[Ernie Pollock]

I have raised many MSA's, you can either cut a piece of wood dowl to fit in the front legs, looks like about 2", & that should raise the steel up enough to use the pedals. If you are not real tall, put that pedal rod in a vice & loosen that top nut & screw that extender off, then put the little piece that snaps on the pedal back on. If that does not work, maybe you should take it to Tom Bradshaw, your too far away for me to fix it for you, but it is an easy fix.

Ernie

[Ben Jones]

I suggest you take it to Tom Bradshaw. It's a long drive, but it will be with it. He will not just fix the problem, but show you exactly what it was so that you will know what to do if it re-occurs.

One of the most valuable lessons I ever had when I was starting out was how to work on my steel. (I called Blackie Taylor and booked a lesson, but I didn't tell him what I wanted. he assumed I wanted a lesson in how to play and was surprised when I said "teach me how to take this thing apart.)

I think everybody should have at least some knowledge of how the instrument works and some skills in making adjustments and minor repairs.

good advice. not having this knowledge has been a setback for me.

Kenn be advised you DO gotta reach up a little for that LKV. it doesnt just sit on your thigh.

[Shorty Rogers]

I would think you could find someone closer than Bradshaw. I suspect that Doug Jones in Canby could help. Not sure if Randy White or Ronnie Hughley are still around Salem. In Portland, you could probably get help from Eric West, Pete Burak, Wes Bakken, or the folks at Sierra Steels.

[Elton Smith]

One other thing,if you look at the pedal rods,they have got numbers on them for each pedal they serve.Take it where there is no carpet like the kitchen and see if they work.I have that guitar,and it's a good one.