Replacement reverb pan for Fender amps

Steel guitar amplifiers, effects, etc.

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Dave Zirbel
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Joined: 4 Aug 1998 11:00 pm
Location: Sebastopol, CA USA

Replacement reverb pan for Fender amps

Post by Dave Zirbel »

Do all black face and silver face amps take the same replcement pan? I need a new pan for a 70 watt Super Reverb.

Thanks
Dave
Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
Ron Simpson
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Post by Ron Simpson »

Antique Electronic Supply has quite a few to choose from.

http://www.tubesandmore.com/
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Dave Zirbel
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Location: Sebastopol, CA USA

Post by Dave Zirbel »

Thanks. Good source and good prices. Do I need to be concerned with ohms? Some say 10 ohm output and some have other values.
Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
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Dave Grafe
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Post by Dave Grafe »

Yes, Dave, you can change the tank size, number of springs and decay time at will but the input AND output impedances are VERY important specifications for proper operation.

The old Accutronics reverb tanks came in three types, types 4, 8, and 9.

The type 4 is 17" long and has 2 long springs, each of which consists of two springs joined in the middle, thus classed as a 4-spring unit. This was the original unit chosen by Leo Fender.
The type 8 is 9" long with 3 springs, commonly used by Marshall.
The type 9 is 17" long and uses 3 long springs, each consisting of two springs joined in the middle. These units deliver a more dense and complex reverberated sound than the types 4 and 8. These are my favorite for steel and are found in the old Randall amps, among others.

The original Accutronics' part numbers, still in use by Antique Electronics and by Belton, who recently purchased Sound Enhancements and the Accutronics name and have moved the manufacturing of these units to South Korea, consist of 7 characters as described below.

1st character: Basic Tank Type - 4, 8, or 9

2nd character: Input impedance @ 1kHz
Type 4:
A=8 ohms B=150 ohms C=200 ohms D=250 ohms E=600 ohms F=1475 ohms
Types 8 and 9:
A=10 ohms B=190 ohms C=240 ohms D=310 ohms E=800 ohms F=1925 ohms

3rd character: Output impedance @ 1 kHz
Type 4:
A=500 ohms B=2250 ohms C=10000 ohms
Types 8 and 9:
A=600 ohms B=2575 ohms C=12000 ohms

4th character: Decay time (same for all types)
1 = short (1.2 to 2 sec)
2 = medium (1.75 to 3.0 sec)
3 = long (2.75 to 4 sec)

5th character: Connector arrangement (same for all types)
A = input grounded, output grounded
B = input grounded, output insulated
C = input insulated, output grounded
D = input insulated, output insulated

6th character: Locking device (same for all types)
1 = no lock

7th character: Mounting plane (same for all types)
A = horizontal,open side up
B = horizontal, open side down
C = vertical wall,long axis horizontal, connectors up
D = vertical wall, long axis horizontal, connectors down
E = vertical wall, long axis vertical, input up
F = vertical wall, long axis vertical, output up

The following table summarizes the above data for the most commonly available units:

PART NUMBER / PRIMARY USER / LENGTH / NUMBER OF SPRINGS / INPUT IMPEDANCE@ 1KhZ(DC resistance) / OUTPUT IMPEDANCE @ 1KhZ(DC resistance)

4AB3C1B / Fender / 17" / 4 / 8ohms(.81ohms) / 2,250ohms(200ohms)
4BB2C1B / Acoustic/SLM/Ampeg / 17" / 4 / 150ohms(26ohms) / 2,250ohms(200ohms)
4EB2C1B / Peavey / 17" / 4 / 600ohms(58ohms) / 2,250ohms(200ohms)
4FB3D1B / Music Man, General / 17" / 4 / 1475ohms(200ohms) / 2,250ohms(200ohms)
9AB2C1B / Fender, Boogie / 17" / 6 / 10ohms(.81ohms) / 2575ohms(200ohms)
9EB2C1B / Peavey, General / 17" / 6 / 800(58ohms) / 2575ohms(200ohms)
9FB2A1C / General / 17" / 6 / 1,925(200ohms) / 2575ohms(200ohms)
8AB2A1B / Boogie / 9" / 3 10ohms(.81ohms) / 2575ohms(200ohms)
8BB2A1B / SLM 9" / 3 / 190ohms(26ohms) / 2575ohms(200ohms)
8DB2C1B / Marshall / 9" / 3 / 310ohms(36ohms) / 2575ohms(200ohms)
8EB2C1B / Fender / 9" / 3 / 800ohms(58ohms) / 2575ohms(200ohms)

TMI? Perhaps, but there you are. If you have the old tank you can check the part number printed on the cover against this chart to determine the impedances, etc.. If you simply want to replace the orignal unit, or if you want to change to a different decay time or spring configuration than what you already have you can figure out from the chart what the correct part number is.

As mentioned above, contact Antique Electronics and tell them what you need and chances are pretty good that you will have a replacement unit in hand very soon and usually for less than $45, freight included. If you want something that Antique Electronics does not have in stock you will have to order it from Belton in Korea - email 'belton2@daum.net' (US Rep) & 'belton@unitel.co.kr ' (South Korea factory)
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Matt Martin
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Post by Matt Martin »

You might try - Tubes and More.com. I bought one for a Bandmaster Reverb and everything matched perfectly!!
Clyde Mattocks
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Post by Clyde Mattocks »

I was in Darren Riley's Guitar Shop in Raleigh last week. He is an authorized Fender dealer and repair. He had Accutronics pans hanging on the wall in official Fender packages. This may be something new with Fender dealers, first time I have seen it. I usually buy mine thru New Sensor out of New York.
LeGrande II, Nash. 112, Harlow Dobro
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Bill A. Moore
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Post by Bill A. Moore »

I put a type 9 tank in my "Twin" build, really like it with the Sho-Bud. It's a little too much with 6 string. The original type 4 may be better for both.
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