how to remove scratches on the changer finger

Justin Douglas · From: Austin, TX

I have my little push-pull taken at home with the strings off changing out the pickup, and I'd like to burnish out some of the scratches on the changer fingers from years of string friction. I know on at least 1 or 2 strings those little grooves are causing some tone problems.

I've got a Dremel with plenty of polishing and buffing attachments, but I'd love to know the correct way to smooth out the grooves in the metal.

Here's a pic illustrating the problem:

Thanks!

Fred Shannon · From: Rocking "S" Ranch, Comancheria, Texas, R.I.P.

I've seen lots of things used from 'Dremels' to 'crocus cloth'. I can tell you from experience whatever you use be sure and keep the radius of the 'wire stretcher' the same or you will have problems galore.

phred
_________________
There are only two defining forces that have offered to die for you; Jesus Christ and the American GI!!

Think about it!!

Justin Douglas · From: Austin, TX

After more research, I've found quite a few threads about this subject. I kept searching for the wrong terms - looks like 'sitar sound' is a popular description of the problem!

So if I understand correctly, the fix goes something like this:

#600 wet n dry sandpaper
#1500

cotton wadding with Aluminum polish

All done very carefully.

Any idea where to buy all this? I've tried to find super fine wet n' dry at lowes and home depot with no success.

Gianni Gori · From: Livorno, Italy

I agree, it's a quite critical job.
I wouldn't do that without disassembling the changer. The job will be much easier, with a better and cleaner result. Otherwise you'll get so much aluminium dust between fingers and spacers...

Once you disassembled the changer, proceed by hand. Very fine sandpaper (800) or abrasive pads, on finfer's top, checking the result often.
You can also stick a piece of paper on a flat surface and rub the finger's top (the scratched part) in a round light movement. This will allow you to get smooth curved surface preserving the right shape of the edges.
You won't have to "dig" too much, or you will loose the correct vertical allignement of strings.
As soon as the scratches are gone, go on with much higher grit sandpaper (1200 and up), then polishing paste.

Another way to do it, if you don't wanna disassemble the changer, you could wrap a piece of fine sandpaper around a flat wood stick as wide as your changer width and rub all the fingers' tops together, removing the scratches and keeping their surfaces perfectly round and at the same height.

Wally Taylor · From: Hardin, Kentucky, USA

Justin, you might try an auto parts store in the paint section or an auto paint shop. They have all kinds of grits there for wet/dry sandpaper.

Wally

Bill Ford · From: Graniteville SC Aiken

Justin,
Paper @ auto supply,autozone,etc,Semichrome @ motorcycle shop/dealer.

Cut the paper in small strips, wrap around something flat, a piece of wood metal the same size/width as the finger, when sanding, keep the motion flat side to side, being careful to follow the arc of the finger. 600/1000/1500, then polish. Read here.

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=176582

Typing while Wally was posting...

Bill
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!!

Georg Sørtun · From: Mandal, Agder, Norway

I always use toothpaste on a strip of rough-surface paper for that sort of thing. Wrap the strip of paper around so I can polish a semi-circle in one go, which keeps the shape intact.

Buddy Castleberry · From: HAWKINSVILLE GA USA - R.I.P.

guys ive posted this before
go to a beauty supply store they sell all
kinds or fingernail files, with all kinds of grit .
the one that polishes the nails has 3 to 4
different grits the heavest is a buffer
work it down with each grit .for lighter scratches
start with a a lesser grit .
they are also flexable to help with the raidius
they also make your nails look good under the lights
that draws the girls attention

Stu Schulman · From: Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)

I use the same thing Buddy uses you can buy them at Wal-Mart for a couple of bucks,They have 4 different size grits and are numbered 1-4 each number has a different color and like Buddy says they are are flexible.Work it slowly.

_________________
Steeltronics Z-pickup,Desert Rose S-10 4+5,Desert Rose Keyless S-10 3+5... Mullen G2 S-10 3+5,Telonics 206 pickups,Telonics volume pedal.,Blanton SD -10,Emmons GS_10...Zirctone bar,Bill Groner Bar...any amp that isn't broken.Steel Seat.Com seats...Licking paint chips off of Chinese Toys since 1952.

Justin Douglas · From: Austin, TX

All done and re-strung! Thanks for all the info, everything was available at Auto Zone and it only took about half an hour to do.

I went the 600, 1500, Mother's aluminum polish route. Used a little piece of maple I cut down to the exact width of one finger and wrapped the sandpaper around it.

Instead of going above my skill level and taking the changer apart, I simply used Glad Cling Wrap to completely cover and seal the pickup and cavities in front and behind the changer so no shavings or particles could fall in. Worked great!

Here's a pic of the finished fingers:

Gianni Gori · From: Livorno, Italy

Great work! Very Happy

Greg Wisecup · From: Troy, Ohio

I'm sending mine to Italy! Smile

_________________
Derby SD-10 4&5 Black!(duh)/
Derby D-10/Steelers Choice/
Goodrich 120/ 2- Katana Boss 100's
/Nashville 400
RV-3/ Zoom MS-50G
As long as I'm down in the mix I'm Fantastic!

Chris Lucker · From: Los Angeles, California USA

Remove the changer.
Place the entire assembly in a vise so the fingers hang down straight and can move freely back and forth.
Using 600 to 2000 wet-dry sandpaper and water polish the tops of the fingers -- all of them -- just like you were polishing the toes and vamps on a pair of boots. Use a strip of sandpaper you can control with even pressure. For me it is about one inch wide.

After you have polished the tops of the fingers, remove the assembly from the vise, take the changer apart and clean out the gunk, replace or rotate the axle, regrease and go.

That string wear is more likely from the case pressing the strings into the 6061 T6 aluminum than it is wear from playing.

Forum Index > Pedal Steel		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic

All times are GMT - 8 Hours	Jump to: