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Topic: Sho-Bud Pickup Cavity |
Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 6:02 am |
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I finally want to get rid of the single coil. Trouble is, this 12 string Sho-Bud Pro 1 has a very tight opening and nothing else will fit, shoehorn or not. I wanted to put in a Lawrence 712 but no go. And now I'm totally thinking of an Alumitone, also too wide.
So--how would you approach this? My meager machining tools and skills make me think this is beyond me but maybe I'm missing something. I'd also really rather not take apart the changer but...
I need to widen this approx. 5/16", indicated by the colored area.
How would the crackerjack machinists out there handle this?
And how would some of you more modest kitchen table geniuses tackle it?
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Nic du Toit
From:
Milnerton, Cape, South Africa
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 6:22 am
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My friend Peter did fit an Alumitone in his 10-string Professional without problems. The wider top of the pickup will be above the aluminum block. The legs were narrow enough to fit.
He had 1 mm clearance on either side of the legs.
This is not enough space for the springs, so he put little blocks of stiff foam rubber under the legs so the pickups can still be adjusted up and down.
He had to get longer screws and drilled new holes into the wood.
Is the opening of a Pro 1 narrower than the opening of a Professional?
Last edited by Nic du Toit on 7 Nov 2009 6:39 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 6:33 am
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| The opening of an S-12 Pro 1 is narrower than anything. Some Pro 1 S-10's can take a narrow mount 710. Nothing other than an original pickup will fit this 6160 (and I had been warned of this previously by an expert so my guitar is not unique). |
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Nic du Toit
From:
Milnerton, Cape, South Africa
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 6:59 am
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| If you use an Alumitone, you do not have to open the whole cavity. All you need to do is use a small file and make little notches where the legs and screws go down. |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 7:03 am
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You know--that's outside of the box of my thinking but it would work. I have an Alumitone on my Fessenden so I'm familiar with the shape.
It would still require the removal of more than a 1/4" of material---not just a small notch---but it would be a considerably smaller job than I was planning.
I am going to consider it. |
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Nic du Toit
From:
Milnerton, Cape, South Africa
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 7:12 am
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| You could make 2 notches of about 1/4" on one side where your colored area is, or 4 smaller notches of about 1/8" all around, where the relevant locations are. Good Luck! |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 7:28 am
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| Actually I would be notching not just for the pickup legs but also for the mounting screws which measure, on-center, almost exactly the width of the cut-out. And since the screw location falls within the changer casting which comes right to the edge of the cut-out, any material removal on the changer side is out. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 7:33 am
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| I put a larger pickup in a Sho~Bud some years ago and I think that I just went at it with a coarse file. It took a while but aluminum is soft and it wasn't all that difficult. |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 7:52 am
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| Having seen the quality of some of your restoration work, Erv, it must be possible to do it well that way (I can't picture you doing a hack job). That is encouraging. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 7:55 am
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Jon,
No, it is quite an easy task.  |
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Scott Denniston
From:
Hahns Peak, Colorado, USA
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 8:51 am
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| Maybe a Dremmel would be quicker and easier than a file --if you're careful. |
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Eddie Lane
From:
Branson, Missouri, USA
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 10:07 am
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Erv,
I have done many ShoBuds that way. It is a lot easier that taking the changer assembly block out.
It doesn't usually take much time.
Eddie |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 11:13 am
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| Erv Niehaus wrote: |
| I put a larger pickup in a Sho~Bud some years ago and I think that I just went at it with a coarse file. It took a while but aluminum is soft and it wasn't all that difficult. |
You can also use a coping saw (the kind where you turn the blade and cut sideways, up or down). It cuts on the pull stroke. That way, you have good control and can cut close to the line and make short work of the filing.
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 11:26 am
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The trouble with the saw (and a complicating factor with the file) is that without removing the plate, there is only....what, an inch and a fraction? of plunge space for the down stroke. But removing the plate==removing the whole changer, as far as I can see. I was thinking of trying the Dremel but this is a substantial piece of metal, a few mil. thicker than a Dremel is comfortable with.
Is there any kind of milling bit that might work with my drill press (woodworking)? I know---wrong tool for the job but... |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 2:54 pm
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Hmmmm, you could drill holes in the corners, and use an X acto saw, starting in the holes. Finish up with a file. I've used these very fine-bladed saws on aluminum and brass.
http://www.artstuff.net/xacto_saw_blades.htm |
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Scott Howard
From:
Georgetown, TN, USA
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Posted 7 Nov 2009 3:25 pm
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For a at home with minimal tools I agree with John .
Drill a couple of holes and then a small saw. But first buy the exact pickup you are going to use. A bit of filing may be all that is needed. Either way I would remove the changer and take it as a good time to clean and lube it up. Scott
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"The Oddball" A MSA Keyless with pedals to the right. |
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