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Author Topic:  Tuning Pans 52 Fender Custom
Howard Parker


From:
Maryland
Post  Posted 3 Nov 2009 2:09 pm    
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I was distressed, not surprised to see several tuners "floating" on the side of my Custom's pans. The welds had been broken. String tension is holding them in place.

I'm not a metal guy. Are the tuners actually "welded", or are they "brazed". I'd like to find a local craftsman to do the repairs. What type of shop should I investigate?

Anything new under the sun with regards to tuner repair or replacement? Any new sources pop up?
Thanks in advance.

I'm prepared to treat this as a terminal patient. Just bolt it back together and play it as is.

h
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Howard Parker

03\' Carter D-10
70\'s Dekley D-10
52\' Fender Custom
Many guitars by Paul Beard
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Keith Cordell


From:
San Diego
Post  Posted 3 Nov 2009 3:57 pm    
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If you want to repair it without discoloring the chrome, I have successfully used JB weld. I am sure that a little epoxy would work too. Welding would ruin the chrome, I'd think.
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Eddie Cunningham

 

From:
Massachusetts, USA
Post  Posted 3 Nov 2009 4:32 pm     Weld or Solder ???
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Are you sure it's "welded" ?? As I recall some of my Fender steel tuners were soldered in and they can be resoldered with a soldering iron without "extreme" heat and shouldn't discolor the chrome !!??? Eddie "C" "the old geezer"
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Howard Parker


From:
Maryland
Post  Posted 3 Nov 2009 4:42 pm    
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JB Weld. What a great idea. I would guessed they were brazed..just because of the heat issue.
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Howard Parker

03\' Carter D-10
70\'s Dekley D-10
52\' Fender Custom
Many guitars by Paul Beard
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 4 Nov 2009 8:17 am    
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As was stated above, they are just soldered in place.
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John Bechtel


From:
Nashville, Tennessee, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 4 Nov 2009 11:38 pm    
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However, you do need a rather high wattage soldering iron to get it hot enough! 25 or 30 watts won't do a thing for it! Common, ordinary rosen-solder will not hold well either. All you really need is enough heat to melt and reseal the brake. You probably don't even need any new solder! Maybe just a coating of flux on the old solder will allow it to run together, when it gets hot enough!
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<marquee> Go~Daddy~Go, (No), Go, It's your Break Time</marquee> L8R, jb
My T-10 Remington Steelmaster
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Jon Nygren


From:
Wisconsin, USA
Post  Posted 5 Nov 2009 6:16 am    
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John Bechtel wrote:
However, you do need a rather high wattage soldering iron to get it hot enough! 25 or 30 watts won't do a thing for it! Common, ordinary rosen-solder will not hold well either. All you really need is enough heat to melt and reseal the brake. You probably don't even need any new solder! Maybe just a coating of flux on the old solder will allow it to run together, when it gets hot enough!


+1 to all of this. Just get a high wattage iron and some flux, and re-flow the solder around the tuner. Probably will have to clamp the tuner into place.

While you are at it, inspect the rest of the joints on the remaining tuners. Many of these crack over time and need to be reflowed.
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John Bechtel


From:
Nashville, Tennessee, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 5 Nov 2009 11:01 am    
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“I'm not a real DR., but; I play one on TV”. I never really repaired a Tuning-Pan, but; that's the way I would attempt to do it!
_________________
<marquee> Go~Daddy~Go, (No), Go, It's your Break Time</marquee> L8R, jb
My T-10 Remington Steelmaster
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