60-cycle Hum
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60-cycle Hum
I'm just starting out, so please forgive my ignorance.
I recently got a beautiful old Supro Supreme to learn on, but we live in a 100 year-old farmhouse with ancient wiring and the 60-cycle hum I get when I try to play is overpowering.
I took my guitar and amp to a neighbor's house with wiring that's up to code and everything checked out perfectly, with no trace of hum. Rewiring our house to make my guitar sound ok isn't a real possibility, so there anything else that might remedy this situation?
Chris
I recently got a beautiful old Supro Supreme to learn on, but we live in a 100 year-old farmhouse with ancient wiring and the 60-cycle hum I get when I try to play is overpowering.
I took my guitar and amp to a neighbor's house with wiring that's up to code and everything checked out perfectly, with no trace of hum. Rewiring our house to make my guitar sound ok isn't a real possibility, so there anything else that might remedy this situation?
Chris
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Re: 60-cycle Hum
Yes. Teach it the words and maybe it will sing.Chris Battis wrote:I'm just starting out, so please forgive my ignorance.
I recently got a beautiful old Supro Supreme to learn on, but we live in a 100 year-old farmhouse with ancient wiring and the 60-cycle hum I get when I try to play is overpowering.
I took my guitar and amp to a neighbor's house with wiring that's up to code and everything checked out perfectly, with no trace of hum. Rewiring our house to make my guitar sound ok isn't a real possibility, so there anything else that might remedy this situation?
Chris
Just kidding, Chris.
You might get a small battery powered amp for practicing, until you can do the rewiring.
- Ray Montee
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Just curious................
When at home, you're not per chance sitting with your guitar really close to the amp?
- Tom Pettingill
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In an older house, it might be wise to get one of these cheap socket testers to see if the ground and polarity is correct.
Beyond that, look for some of the more troublesome noise makers, it may be that the age of the wiring is not the problem. Things like computer monitors, florescent and neon lights, wall warts, door bell and thermostat transformers, and various electrical appliances can generate a lot of noise.
Also proximity to the electrical service mains / fuse box can be noisy. Is the noise less in other parts of the house?
Beyond that, look for some of the more troublesome noise makers, it may be that the age of the wiring is not the problem. Things like computer monitors, florescent and neon lights, wall warts, door bell and thermostat transformers, and various electrical appliances can generate a lot of noise.
Also proximity to the electrical service mains / fuse box can be noisy. Is the noise less in other parts of the house?
- Todd Weger
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Me, too...
I'm curious about this question, too.
I'm having the same issues with my old '38 Epiphone. The p'up has gone somewhat microphonic, but part of the great tone with that lapsteel is the little bit of p'up noise, so I don't want to mess with that.
I do notice that I get a bad hum in some venues, however. I did play an outdoor event the other day though, and the sound company was VERY professional. I noticed on that gig -- NO HUM from my Epi! Would that maybe be that they used some kind of power or line conditioners? I don't know for a fact if they had Furman boxes or what, but it was the best stage sound I had ever gotten, and not having that hum was a real pleasure.
Thanks.
I'm having the same issues with my old '38 Epiphone. The p'up has gone somewhat microphonic, but part of the great tone with that lapsteel is the little bit of p'up noise, so I don't want to mess with that.
I do notice that I get a bad hum in some venues, however. I did play an outdoor event the other day though, and the sound company was VERY professional. I noticed on that gig -- NO HUM from my Epi! Would that maybe be that they used some kind of power or line conditioners? I don't know for a fact if they had Furman boxes or what, but it was the best stage sound I had ever gotten, and not having that hum was a real pleasure.
Thanks.
Todd James Weger --
1956 Fender Stringmaster T-8 (C6, E13, A6); 1960 Fender Stringmaster D-8 (C6, B11/A6); Custom-made 25" aluminum cast "fry pan" with vintage Ricky p'up (C6); 1938 Epiphone Electar (A6); 1953 Oahu Tonemaster; assorted ukuleles; upright bass
1956 Fender Stringmaster T-8 (C6, E13, A6); 1960 Fender Stringmaster D-8 (C6, B11/A6); Custom-made 25" aluminum cast "fry pan" with vintage Ricky p'up (C6); 1938 Epiphone Electar (A6); 1953 Oahu Tonemaster; assorted ukuleles; upright bass
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Thanks. The socket tester seems like a good place to start. After that, I'll see if there's some add-on like a line conditioner I can use. If that doesn't work, I know an electrician who can do the work (for $$), or perhaps I'll just take the Supro to my neighbor's house when I want to practice.Tom Pettingill wrote:In an older house, it might be wise to get one of these cheap socket testers to see if the ground and polarity is correct.
Beyond that, look for some of the more troublesome noise makers, it may be that the age of the wiring is not the problem. Things like computer monitors, florescent and neon lights, wall warts, door bell and thermostat transformers, and various electrical appliances can generate a lot of noise.
Also proximity to the electrical service mains / fuse box can be noisy. Is the noise less in other parts of
the house?
Chris
- Ray Montee
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An afterthought......................
Houses that have flurecent(sp?) tubes installed in a shop or kitchen area.........can rasise all kinds of H___!
Also, wall mounted light DIMMER SWITCHES........are also notorious for NOISE.
Also, wall mounted light DIMMER SWITCHES........are also notorious for NOISE.
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SCR's (dimmer switches) tend to cause problems higher than 60 Hz, as do modern fluorescent tubes. The advice from the old Scruggs book to tune to the fluorescent light hum is mostly obsolete now.
I've had good luck with my Hum-X, so that is something you might want to look at. As suggested above you might also try different outlets throughout the house to see if you can localize the problem.
Pro sound guys often run their own power from the main box, so that they have a solid ground and just as important, everything has the same ground. Rather than rewire your house, you might ask your electrician to run one good circuit for you.
I've had good luck with my Hum-X, so that is something you might want to look at. As suggested above you might also try different outlets throughout the house to see if you can localize the problem.
Pro sound guys often run their own power from the main box, so that they have a solid ground and just as important, everything has the same ground. Rather than rewire your house, you might ask your electrician to run one good circuit for you.
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- Clete Ritta
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Is the amp power plug 3 prong? Is the guitar pickup single coil? Older amps often had a +/- polarity and float (ground lift) 3-way toggle on the back. Is the power in the house 3 prong? Besides all the other noise factors mentioned, you might try a 3 prong to two prong (ground lift) adaptor. Not the safest thing in a lightning storm, but may help. You can reverse polarity by reversing the plug and adaptor in the wall socket. Do you get an "antenna" type noise which fluctuates as the guitar position is altered? Even in recording studios, I swivel around to find the quietest position before tracking.
Clete
Clete
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Thanks, everyone. There are lots of promising leads here that I'll be eliminating one by one as time allows. No ceiling fan, dimmers or fluorescent lights here, but many other potential culprits.
I've begun by ordering a Hum-X, since installing one of those in is well within the scope of my technical abilities, and a new jack plug for the guitar. While I'm waiting for the electrician to call me back, the next step will be putting some copper shielding tape in the p/u cavity.
Thanks again,
Chris
I've begun by ordering a Hum-X, since installing one of those in is well within the scope of my technical abilities, and a new jack plug for the guitar. While I'm waiting for the electrician to call me back, the next step will be putting some copper shielding tape in the p/u cavity.
Thanks again,
Chris
- Todd Weger
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Hum-X?
Lynn - Does the Hum-X effect your tone at all, or does it just get rid of that annoying 60-cycle hum, and leave your tone intact? Man, if that thing works, I'm dropping the $70 for one today! I've been be-deviled with ground loop hum for too long.Lynn Oliver wrote:I've had good luck with my Hum-X, so that is something you might want to look at.
Thanks,
TJW
Todd James Weger --
1956 Fender Stringmaster T-8 (C6, E13, A6); 1960 Fender Stringmaster D-8 (C6, B11/A6); Custom-made 25" aluminum cast "fry pan" with vintage Ricky p'up (C6); 1938 Epiphone Electar (A6); 1953 Oahu Tonemaster; assorted ukuleles; upright bass
1956 Fender Stringmaster T-8 (C6, E13, A6); 1960 Fender Stringmaster D-8 (C6, B11/A6); Custom-made 25" aluminum cast "fry pan" with vintage Ricky p'up (C6); 1938 Epiphone Electar (A6); 1953 Oahu Tonemaster; assorted ukuleles; upright bass
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The polarity is probably switched in your house. They didn't pay much attention to those things in the old days. The circuit tester should tell you that. Assuming you have a 2-prong plug on your amp, trying turning the plug over.
I rewired my old '50s Fender Princeton with a grounded 3-prong cord and haven't had any more hum or "shocking" problems.
I rewired my old '50s Fender Princeton with a grounded 3-prong cord and haven't had any more hum or "shocking" problems.
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This should really be in Electronics rather than Steel Without Pedals.
Brad’s Page of Steel
A web site devoted to acoustic & electric lap steel guitars
A web site devoted to acoustic & electric lap steel guitars
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Chris,
If you go to Wal-Mart, back in the electronics section, you should be able to find very small power conditioners for flat screen tv's.
They are sleek designed, feature 2 outlets on them and have 2 lights on them. One shows that it is working & smoothing out the power/protecting it from surges. The other shows you if the outlet is grounded properly.
If you get lucky, they might even have these on sale for about $2. That's what I paid...and I bought a bunch.
They work like a charm. I live in a very old house with very crappy wiring. Turns out, the outlet that I plug most of amps into...isn't grounded and makes every amp noisey.
Hope this helps,
Casey
If you go to Wal-Mart, back in the electronics section, you should be able to find very small power conditioners for flat screen tv's.
They are sleek designed, feature 2 outlets on them and have 2 lights on them. One shows that it is working & smoothing out the power/protecting it from surges. The other shows you if the outlet is grounded properly.
If you get lucky, they might even have these on sale for about $2. That's what I paid...and I bought a bunch.
They work like a charm. I live in a very old house with very crappy wiring. Turns out, the outlet that I plug most of amps into...isn't grounded and makes every amp noisey.
Hope this helps,
Casey
Known Coast to Coast as
"The Man with The Plan"
"The Man with The Plan"
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I got one of those little socket testers yesterday at Home Depot and found one outlet in our kitchen that was wired correctly, probably by accident. There was no hum at all when I plugged the amp into that one and I can work on grounding other outlets as time permits. Thanks for all your informed suggestions, everyone!Tom Pettingill wrote:In an older house, it might be wise to get one of these cheap socket testers to see if the ground and polarity is correct.
Chris
- Alan Brookes
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60 cycles is the AC frequency of most countries that use 110 volts, as in the USA. In other parts of the world that use 230/250 volts the AC frequency is 50 cycles. I wonder if the same problem that you have would be at 50 cycles outside the USA.
By the way, any electrical device which uses a timing device linked to mains voltage will go out-of-time if you use it in a country with a different frequency. For instance, I brought an electric clock with me from England that worked on 240 volts. If you plug it in over here, using a voltage converter, it runs fast. I guess this is why most clocks use a battery, or convert the AC down to low voltage DC. You don't see many mains-operated clocks any more.
I don't suppose this will help your problem, but it's an interest phenomenon.
By the way, any electrical device which uses a timing device linked to mains voltage will go out-of-time if you use it in a country with a different frequency. For instance, I brought an electric clock with me from England that worked on 240 volts. If you plug it in over here, using a voltage converter, it runs fast. I guess this is why most clocks use a battery, or convert the AC down to low voltage DC. You don't see many mains-operated clocks any more.
I don't suppose this will help your problem, but it's an interest phenomenon.