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Topic: Finishing a new build... |
Allan Munro
From:
Pennsylvania, USA and Scotland
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Posted 24 Sep 2009 1:43 pm |
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I have spent quite a bit of time over the last few days looking into finishing methods for a self built lap steel. I am getting more and more frustrated with what I am finding. 'Use this...', 'What ever you do, don't use that! This other stuff is way better...', 'NO! That's no use unless you can...' You get the idea.
I have decided that 'too many cooks' are definitely peeing in that soup. So, one source - this forum.
I don't have spraying equipment so I am looking at spray cans or hand work here. I know some of you have done this kind of work before, I have seen the AMAZING pics. I want to achieve a colored finish this time around, not a stained appearance - a full opaque color.
Under coat/color/clear coat???
What have you guys used for this work? All and any input would be more than appreciated.
Thanks and regards, Allan.....
_________________
Only nuts eat squirrels.
Television is the REAL opiate of the masses! |
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James Kerr
From:
Scotland, UK
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Posted 24 Sep 2009 2:15 pm
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Allan,
I used Auto paint Cans, 3 coats of Grey Primer, rub down in between because the grain rises. 3 coats of colour, no rub down unless you get a run. No clear coat, you can if you wish.
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Allan Munro
From:
Pennsylvania, USA and Scotland
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Posted 24 Sep 2009 7:45 pm
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Thank you James.
Love the fret boards!!! I am going to have to come up with something interesting in that regard too. (6 string, 22 1/2")
While I am here, your 'Red Red Rose' track is so nice!
Again, thanks.....
_________________
Only nuts eat squirrels.
Television is the REAL opiate of the masses! |
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Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA (deceased)
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Posted 24 Sep 2009 8:18 pm
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Auto paints can work very well and produce great results as James has shown.
For more traditional lacquers, ReRanch has a good product and a lot of good finishing info on their forums. http://www.reranch.com/
What ever way you go though, its a good idea to use the same brand of primer, color and clear coat to avoid any compatibility issues.
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Some misc pics of my hand crafted steels
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Allan Munro
From:
Pennsylvania, USA and Scotland
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Posted 24 Sep 2009 10:32 pm
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Thank you Tom.
I went and had a look at the ReRanch site. GOOD stuff.
Is that what you use? I do like your work - how could I not? Beautiful instruments.
Best regards, Allan.....
_________________
Only nuts eat squirrels.
Television is the REAL opiate of the masses! |
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Lynn Oliver
From:
Redmond, Washington USA * R.I.P.
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Posted 24 Sep 2009 10:42 pm
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It's been a while since I did much refinishing, but I've been reading up on it in preparation for my current project. The steps for a deep, glossy finish are:
1. grain filler
2. sealer
3. primer
4. color coats
5. clear coats
Step 2 is where you create a really smooth base for everything that follows.
I have an HVLP sprayer but it is such a pain to clean that I'm thinking of using spray lacquer from reranch.com. |
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George Piburn
From:
The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
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Posted 25 Sep 2009 6:19 am edit
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edit
Last edited by George Piburn on 22 Jun 2012 7:28 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Allan Munro
From:
Pennsylvania, USA and Scotland
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Posted 25 Sep 2009 2:29 pm
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Huge thanks to all who have replied to my inquiry. I am so pleased to see that there is no argument on what to use or how to use it.
I will decide what color and get into it in the next day or few. Pics will follow - assuming it comes up OK!!! 
Best regards to all, Allan.....
_________________
Only nuts eat squirrels.
Television is the REAL opiate of the masses! |
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Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA (deceased)
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Posted 25 Sep 2009 4:15 pm
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| Allan Munro wrote: |
| ... I went and had a look at the ReRanch site. GOOD stuff.... Is that what you use? I do like your work - how could I not? Beautiful instruments. |
Thanks Allan  ... I have used some of the ReRanch product on another project, but most of what you have seen of mine is a hand rubbed Tru Oil finish.
Tru Oil really does a great job of bringing out the beauty in wood when doing a natural finish.
Good luck with the project, looking forward to seeing her when she is done 
_________________
Some misc pics of my hand crafted steels
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Kekoa Blanchet
From:
Kaua'i
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Posted 27 Sep 2009 10:56 pm
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| Tom, could you give us a quick summary of the steps that you use for your Tru Oil finish? Your results are stellar. |
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Lynn Oliver
From:
Redmond, Washington USA * R.I.P.
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Posted 28 Sep 2009 9:40 am
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| Tom, do you feel that the Tru Oil finish provides any protection from dents? |
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Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA (deceased)
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Posted 28 Sep 2009 9:30 pm
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Lynn ... Tru Oil is a polymerized linseed and other natural oils based product. Its more like an old time instrument varnish than a typical oil finish really. It does build a film and cures fairly hard, but nothing like todays modern urethane or polyester coatings.
It does offer more protection than tung or Danish type oil finishes. It fits in probably more like a thin skin nitro lacquer.
Kekoa ... sure. Tru Oil is fairly easy to work with and very forgiving. Because it goes on thin, it can take some time and effort to build it to a flat mirror finish, but it looks great even if your only doing a lighter more open grain finish.
My method is basically just an exercise of building it up and blocking it down.
You can grain fill by using some 400 grit paper and wet sanding with strait Tru Oil working small areas at a time. This makes a slurry of oil and wood dust that can be burnished in cross grain. Depending on the pores, it can take a couple sessions to build.
Once filled, I wipe on thin coats with a lint free cotton swatch, I use 2 x 2 gun cleaning patches, ran out of old t-shirts.
It depends on the weather, temp, etc, but generally you can recoat in a couple hours.
In the morning before I start on that days coats, I wet sand with some 1000 grit and a spritz of mineral spirits. I keep this routine up until I'm happy with the base and all is looking flat.
Once I hit that point I move up to 1500, then 2000 on the last coats.
After the 2000 session, I do what I call a glaze coat. I thin some Tru Oil with mineral spirits and do a quick light coat, just enough to give it a wet look. You have to go fast and not over work it.
Here is what it can look like If you have the paitence to take it that far.
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_________________
Some misc pics of my hand crafted steels
Follow me on Facebook here |
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