Sierra Artist

Brian Pelky · Post by **Brian Pelky** » 31 May 2008 12:15 pm

I noticed Sierra was making an "Artist" model in the mid 80's. I know Sierra is considered a high end guitar today....was the Artist a decent guitar? Is an S-10 worth $1,500?

Mike Perlowin · Post by **Mike Perlowin** » 31 May 2008 4:17 pm

The artist was Sierra's entry level guitar. I believe they were made out of aluminum, but I wouldn't swear to it.

I have no idea what they are worth today.

Casey Lowmiller · Post by **Casey Lowmiller** » 31 May 2008 4:54 pm

I've always seen them go for $850-$1,000 or so. Depends on the condition & the number of knee levers. I've seen alot of them that were over-priced and only had 2 knee levers.

I've heard that they are really neat, lightweight, smoothe playing & have good tone. I've always wanted one, but I can't justify buying another steel.

Casey

admin · Post by **b0b** » 31 May 2008 7:57 pm

I had one on loan for a couple of weeks, maybe in 1999 or 2000. It was an S-10 with 4+5. Very lightweight, but it played solidly in tune and sounded very good. It had great sustain, due to the bell-like resonance of the single piece aluminum body.

I really liked it. I think they were designed in the mid-1990's and were only produced for 5 or 6 years. There was a D-10 model, too. The Artist was a less expensive model than the Session. It was built with lighter parts all around and a 1-piece laminate finish on top of the curved aluminum body.

Tim Lane · Post by **Tim Lane** » 1 Jun 2008 6:02 pm

I had one for a couple of years, and it had very good tone and stayed in tune better than any steel I've seen, it was a 3x2 and I sold for $850 to upgrade to a Rains. However, if I'd had the money I would have kept it and left it at church so I wouldn't have to haul it back in forth.

Roy Ayres · Post by **Roy Ayres** » 2 Jun 2008 9:16 am

I had a Sierra Artist D10 8 + 4 for a couple of years. It was a pretty good axe. The only reason I sold it was because my wife surprised me on my 75th birthday with a customized Excel Superb. The only complaint I had against the Artist was the way the square legs attached. The tops of the legs fitted into sockets beneath the guitar and were secured with winged set screws. The legs were a little unstable, allowing the guitar to rack back and forth a little. I think I recall that it brought $1,200.00 when I sold it.

Colm Chomicky · Post by **Colm Chomicky** » 3 Jun 2008 4:45 am

I think the Artist series was made until about 1999 or 2000. I would not call it an entry level guitar, maybe a slimmed-down Sierra with lighter parts. The prices new were on par with many professional guitars. On the used market, the S-10's typical go for under $1000. A D-10 can go for about what you are quoting.

Frank Agliata · Post by **Frank Agliata** » 3 Jun 2008 5:39 pm

In a recent e-mail with Tom Baker at Sierra, I asked a similar question about how my Artist compares with other Pro models, being that this is my first steel and the only one I've played on . . . His response . .

"These guitars were designed as a pro guitar ( meaning that the
changer is fully- functional 3 raise/ 3 lowers) as well as the
under-carriage, but were also designed
to keep the cost down to the "student range" as far as price,
compared to most other pro-level guitars."

So it appears that all the previous posts concerning this guitar are relatively accurate.

My guitar was made in 2001, with three pedals and four knees, I paid just over $900.

Joe Stoebenau · Post by **Joe Stoebenau** » 4 Jun 2008 6:31 am

I had one of these guitars up until recently.
It was a very well made guitar, sounded great and extremely light weight. Mine was 3+2 and came with a wheel EZ case and leg bag.
Had to let it go so I could get my MSA D10.
I think I sold it for $800 including shipping which I think is a fair price for these. If someone wanted more than that, get an MSA Classic which is probably the most guitar you can get for the money. The Sierra Artists were about $1100 new.

Ernie Pollock · Post by **Ernie Pollock** » 6 Jun 2008 4:10 am

I agree with Joe above, I had several of those pass through my store, they had a habit of breaking the little pedal connection where it went into the pedal, they could be a real pain. They were made of of metal [aluminum] & light weight, but not great thats for sure. I sold the ones I had pretty cheap. Get an MSA Classic, good solid guitar that won't let you down.

Ernie Pollock

Dale Lee · Post by **Dale Lee** » 6 Jun 2008 3:49 pm

I have one, 3+2. It is my first pedal steel, so I can't compare to others. At first the action was a little scritchy, but I learned about Trilube on the forum, lubed it up and it now has very smooth pedal action.

I also learned about the ball-end breaking at the pedal on the forum, so as a preventive measure I took the ball-ends off and re-installed them with a washer. Without the washer, they wouldn't thread fully in because the threads on the stud run out at the shoulder of the ball. With the washer I was able to tighten completely and hopefully avoid the flex in the threaded stud. Knock on wood, they haven't broken yet and I am hopeful the washers will prevent them from breaking.

One little problem I am having is that sometimes my foot slips off the B-pedal (one of my beginner klutz moves), the pedal pops up, and the hook at the top end of the pedal rod binds up in the piece it is hooked into at the cross shaft. I have to jiggle it back into its normal loose position, then it is fine. Does this ever happen with other guitars?

Charlie McDonald · Post by **Charlie McDonald** » 7 Jun 2008 4:40 am

Dale Lee wrote:Does this ever happen with other guitars?

Sure, whenever my foot gets excited because it knows it has to move but doesn't know where to go. (70's MSA Classic)

Clete Ritta · Post by **Clete Ritta** » 21 Sep 2009 1:29 pm

A friend loaned me his Sierra Artist. Its a 3x2, not sure what year. If I can fix a little problem, it will be a great sounding guitar. Its got a George L pickup and plays well overall. The problem is that when the A and B pedals are depressed first (or even just the A pedal), then the E lower lever is added after, releasing the A pedal sticks, and only when the E lower lever is released does the A pedal pop back open.

I cant tell if the problem is in the changer, or springs are adjusted wrong, or...?
Any experience with this problem before?

Roy McKinney · Post by **Roy McKinney** » 22 Sep 2009 5:09 am

I had one of the first D10's and had Tom install the first LKV lever on it. Never had any problms with the pedal/rod connectors. That steel also had the foot pedals replaced from the original short ones to the later longer ones. I belioeve that Colm Chomicky still has that steel.

admin · Post by **b0b** » 22 Sep 2009 7:13 am

Clete Ritta wrote:The problem is that when the A and B pedals are depressed first (or even just the A pedal), then the E lower lever is added after, releasing the A pedal sticks, and only when the E lower lever is released does the A pedal pop back open.

It looks like someone has moved the LKR lever to the inside of the crossrod bracket. Maybe it's binding against the 10th string raise rod.

It's hard to tell from the picture, but if that's what's happening it's an easy fix. Just put the lever back where it belongs.

Brett Day · Post by **Brett Day** » 22 Sep 2009 7:30 am

I rented a Sierra Artist from a music store before I started playin'. At the time, I had just the picks, but no steel bar.

Brett

Clete Ritta · Post by **Clete Ritta** » 22 Sep 2009 11:15 am

b0b wrote: It looks like someone has moved the LKR lever to the inside of the crossrod bracket. Maybe it's binding against the 10th string raise rod.

It's hard to tell from the picture, but if that's what's happening it's an easy fix. Just put the lever back where it belongs.

b0b,
The levers are in what appears to be stock position though. Heres a couple more pix, showing the levers folded for stowing, and open.

I don't think this was causing the binding, but I think you are on to something with the raise rods. Notice how the pull rods aren't truly straight in line from changer to pull on several rods. This might be normal, but I hear the spring and changer on string 4 click and seems to catch string 5 changer, so Ive isolated the problem to string 4 (LKR) and 5 (A pedal) at least. Changer 4 is not pulling straight and contacts changer 5 as the LKR is lowered. If 5 is raised (A pedal), Changer 4 keeps it raised. I've tinkered around a little, and by reversing the side that the pin attaches to on string 4 rod, it pulls a little more on center. That and a little machine oil and its a whole lot more playable now!

b0b wrote:...It had great sustain, due to the bell-like resonance of the single piece aluminum body... I really liked it.

Thanks for the reply.

The Steel Guitar Forum

Sierra Artist

Sierra Artist

artist

Artist designed as "Pro" guitar . .

Yes