Sho Bud Pro 1 rebuilt by Tom Bradshaw --- SOLD-- CLOSE

Ken Fox · Post by **Ken Fox** » 13 Sep 2009 3:08 pm

$1450.00 and shipping. PayPal OK, but add 3.5% to cover the fees. Ships from California

Info from Tom:

Ken Fox’s Sho-Bud Pro l

General Impressions. Upon arrival, there wasn't the usual "nightclub smell" to it. I noticed the case looked nearly new. I concluded that this guitar had never been outside the previous owners' home. There were a few "bar-dings" on the cabinet, but otherwise the finish appeared to be close to what it was when purchased (dark walnut finish over birdseye maple and no fading). The pickup had been replaced with a George L. I couldn’t find a model number on the underside of the pickup, but presume the guitar owner knew the sound he wanted when he replaced the original pickup.

The guitar had been originally built with 3 floor pedals and 2 knee levers. There weren't any of the typical (and numerous) holes drilled willy-nilly into the underside of the cabinet as I have been accustomed to seeing on these older Sho-Bud instruments (when owners moved the knee levers all over the place). I happened to have the necessary parts for the 3rd knee lever. John "Mr. Sho-Bud" Coop supplied me with the 4th knee lever kit. Coop's machine work is of excellent quality and he will build most anything a Sho-Bud owners may need to keep these vintage instruments humming. I asked Coop if he knew the model year of this Pro 1 (#9948). He said that serial numbers on these guitars don't give much of a clue, but he might be able to provide an approximate birth date if he had pictures. Maybe those Ken may post will give him the necessary clues for the guitar's birthdate.

Here is what I did to the guitar:

-Disassembled it, including the changer, endplates, machine head and tuners, nut roller, and undercarriage hardware.
-Cleaned and polished all guitar hardware, including changer/pickup block, tuning machine holders and endplates.
-Cleaned changer assembly and replaced axle with one made of stainless steel.
-Cleaned and painted changer lever-guide and spring holdback assembly.
-Replaced several holdback springs with new ones (a previous owner had installed mismatched springs).
-Adjusted all springs to match their needed tension for the changes that are required (raise or lower) by the guitar’s copedent.
-Installed thin "plush" red carpet to the underside of the cabinet.
-Painted (aluminum color) all hardware that was susceptible to rust.
-Added the two knee levers (kits).
-Added nylon bearings to all moving surfaces wherever they could be installed (all cross-shafts mounts, primarily).
-Replaced a couple of tuning tubes with standard and appropriate pull-pin types (the tubes had been inappropriately installed on the guitar by a past owner or owners).
-Replaced all changer pull rods with new 3/32" stainless steel rods with new nylon tuning nuts.
-Cleaned nut rollers and replaced axle with stainless steel one, then polished all rollers.
-Installed a new fretboard.
-Replaced the worn input jack and fitted all pickup wires with shrink-fit plastic tubing.
-Adjusted all machine heads to proper drag.
-Re-painted inside of tuning key block (as is the manufacturer's custom on these Sho-Buds).
-Polished all knee levers and mounted them with nylon locking nuts and Allen head machine screws.
-Installed a new set of strings.
-Cleaned and polished the three pedals, then cleaned and painted portions of the pedal bar assembly.
-Cleaned the case [Note: case was in excellent condition with only a few scratches].
-Tuned guitar and pedal changes to play in proper pitch.

Conclusions: This will make an excellent guitar for a person wanting to get into playing without too much cost. It will also satisfy about anyone who is still in the learning stage, and will become more comfortable to play as their skills increase. If and when a more modern instrument is purchased, this guitar will likely sell for the same price that Ken is asking for it now.

Note: Whatever copedent a prospective buyer desires will be installed before delivery. ...Tom

Tom Bradshaw · Post by **Tom Bradshaw** » 13 Sep 2009 4:53 pm

Hey Ken, where are the pictures I took of this ax? No one is going to believe this gibberish unless you have pictures to prove what I say about it! ...Tom

Jordan Shapiro · Post by **Jordan Shapiro** » 13 Sep 2009 4:54 pm

Would you be interested in these as trade?(one each)
http://www.silvertoneworld.com/amplifie ... /1336.html
http://www.silvertoneworld.com/amplifie ... /1333.html
Please put me on the list of "i'd like the steel, one way or another, but I have to get rid of these amps first"

Ken Fox · Post by **Ken Fox** » 13 Sep 2009 5:03 pm

Thanks, but no trades on this one.

Ken Fox · Post by **Ken Fox** » 13 Sep 2009 5:08 pm

Kyle Dosskey · Post by **Kyle Dosskey** » 13 Sep 2009 10:16 pm

Ken, sent you a PM

Kyle Dosskey · Post by **Kyle Dosskey** » 14 Sep 2009 12:46 am

apparently private messages get stuck in my outbox and remain undelivered, so I sent you an e-mail as well

Ken Fox · Post by **Ken Fox** » 14 Sep 2009 1:48 pm

As soon as I can get an approximate box size and weight from Tom I can estimate shipping. Steel is not packed yet, as someone may want to change the set-up before it ships [Oooops. I meant "someone may want to change the COPEDENT before it ships"]. I don't want Tom upset with me over my choice of words.

Ken Fox · Post by **Ken Fox** » 15 Sep 2009 2:04 pm

Info from Tom on shipping:

The guitar weighs 45 pounds in the case. I'd estimate that the packaging will add 12 pounds to the total. So figure a shipping weight of 57 pounds. I guess a prospective buyer can go on line and find out what the shipping will cost. I have a FedEx account, so could use it and save the fellow about 15%.

Ken Byng · Post by **Ken Byng** » 16 Sep 2009 4:35 am

Mr Bradshaw is certainly a man of many talents.

Jimmie Martin · Post by **Jimmie Martin** » 16 Sep 2009 7:54 am

Are those a couple of wood screws holding down the skirt board that would be facing the player? Loooks like it.

Tom Bradshaw · Post by **Tom Bradshaw** » 16 Sep 2009 1:09 pm

If you are asking about the screws on the front of each endplate, most definitely they are wood screws, but wood screws with the threads going all the way to the screw's head. Wood screws are needed because the endplates are mounted to the guitar's cabinet which is wood! I replaced the old screws (which were a little tarnished) with new stainless steel ones on all 4 corners of the endplates. I didn't replace the screws used on the undercarriage hardware. I just polished their heads. I kind of liked the look of those old fashioned screw heads that are fatter than the ones available today. They don't make'um like that any more. ...Tom

Ken Fox · Post by **Ken Fox** » 21 Sep 2009 9:21 am

bumper up!

Ken Fox · Post by **Ken Fox** » 24 Sep 2009 7:24 am

Sold!! Donation on the way

The Steel Guitar Forum

Sho Bud Pro 1 rebuilt by Tom Bradshaw --- SOLD-- CLOSE

Sho Bud Pro 1 rebuilt by Tom Bradshaw --- SOLD-- CLOSE

Fox'es Pro 1

sho-bud

Wood Screws????