WARNING C6 S10 buyers

Edward Meisse · Post by **Edward Meisse** » 16 Jul 2009 8:17 am

LKL-G to F LKR-A to Bb RKL-C to B RKR-C to C#. I have already discovered that I'm going to need the A to Ab for my playing. I use all four current levers quite alot since I play Great American Songbook. There are alot of nonchordal tones involved. And that will be another thing I should understand how I'm going to do before I make changes. I'd like to do the pedal move along with the lever addition. I have considered eliminating pedal one for something I might use more. Pedal 4 seems to cover that function for me, at least for the time being. So your suggestion of moving 4 over to 1 is something to consider. I'm difinitely going to think long and hard and do alot more playing with this before making a move.

admin · Post by **b0b** » 16 Jul 2009 9:43 am

Yeah, it would be super easy to swap the changes on P1 and P4. The 4th string change is the same on both of them. Also, the new P1+P2 (standard P5+P7) will make a real pretty 13th chord that you'll quickly become addicted to. I use it as the first chord in Ebb Tide, for example.

John Billings · Post by **John Billings** » 16 Jul 2009 9:54 am

"13th chord that you'll quickly become addicted to. "

Also great for Blues comping!

Pete Burak · Post by **Pete Burak** » 16 Jul 2009 10:31 am

Can't you just pull the pedal hardware off and put it back exactly where you want it?
We're talking about moving a few cross-rods and bell cranks around, and re-sizing the pull rods, no???
A coupla hours work and you'll have it "customized".
If we knew the brand/model, you could get some tips from those who do this stuff every time they get a new idea for a pedal/lever change.

Rich Peterson · Post by **Rich Peterson** » 16 Jul 2009 11:43 am

This topic interests me although I'm an E9th player at this time. I had been wondering why the E9th pedals "have" to be so far to the left. I suspect the position goes back to early doublenecks.

David Mason · Post by **David Mason** » 16 Jul 2009 1:43 pm

I haven't spent the time crawling under a lot of steels that others have, but tell me - is it standard to have nine pedal positions on a double neck? And in that case the standard 5 C6th pedals would be in positions 4 -> 8? I didn't know that at the time, if for some reason I were to ever order another S10 C6th I'd specify that placement. Regarding moving the 4th pedal to a lever, and swapping out the A's to B's pedal and the boowah, it seems to me that's just putting the change you like on a lever because it's on a pedal you can't reach; and putting the change you don't like on the pedal (5) you can't reach - by moving the pedals over so you can reach 1-4 with the left foot and 3-5 with the right, you have no undesirables lurking around under there.

John Poston · Post by **John Poston** » 16 Jul 2009 5:06 pm

I have fairly long legs and I would definitely want the pedals towards the middle, as a Shobud or old Fender would, for a single C6 neck.
I mostly play with 2 feet the whole time though, left foot over 5+6 and right foot on 7.
I also like a lot of the songbook stuff and I find w/ high A to Ab, both As to Bb and high C to B on knees I can do most of what I want, though high C to C# seems pretty handy and I sometimes which I had it.

I don't know the builder in question, and I can understand the frustration, but I imagine that it's just not something considered a lot. I think that for most companies, with specific instructions in mind, building things over to the right could be accommodated. I, myself, have considered a S10 C6 and wouldn't have thought about this issue unless someone with previous experience hadn't warned me about it.

For example, looking at my S10 GFI it's clear that all the pedals can move right quite easily - then it's just an issue of positioning the knee levers appropriately.

David Mason · Post by **David Mason** » 17 Jul 2009 7:02 am

I think I remember reading that the pull rods are just a standard size (maybe a welding rod?), so if you got a bunch of extra locking barrels and a correct tap and die set, in theory you could do your own pedal re-positioning. It would be a lot easier if you knew how, of course. It seems like having as many of the rods as possible bent into loop ends, rather than all straight rods and locking barrels, would be the best mechanically. I couldn't find anyone around here or figure out any way better to do it then send it to the factory, as I have two curious cats and a "workbench" in my bedroom that preclude me taking on projects that make piles of shiny little objects lying around for days, while I'm earning a living elsewise... maybe it's an easy job?

Rich Peterson · Post by **Rich Peterson** » 17 Jul 2009 8:20 am

An S-10 E9 does not have the pedals all the way over by the left leg, but a D-10 does. I've never heard an E9 player complain about that difference. I don't think an E9 player would have difficulty with the pedals over to the right. It would have little effect on resale value.

And there will be some C6 player looking for a steel like yours when you put it up for sale, and yours will be the only one available. Besides, it is your guitar; have it your way.

Jerry Overstreet · Post by **Jerry Overstreet** » 17 Jul 2009 9:02 am

Moving pedals and levers on a S 10 could be a major problem for the DIY 'er depending on the original body configuration. Some guitar bodies are already worked for up to 10 pedal crossrods, but probably not on an S10. You would have to drill the body to accept new crossrods particularly for the pedals and that might not be doable, after the build, on some guitars.