Push-Pull Rebuild Chronicles
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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p/p rebuild
Tony, I had the same problem as you with pillow blocks that were extremely tight. I used the same procedure Mike Cass recommended except I let the axle and blocks soak in a solution to loosen it up a bit. Mike is correct about taking your time and being patient with the blocks but they will eventually come apart. Keep up the good work!
- Tony Glassman
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Opinions appreciated!
re-mica vs. keep original?
The back deck edge is similarly nicked.
The only casualty so far is the Emmons badge, which has a broken corner. If anyone has an extra one, I'd be interested in buying it....same goes for a pedal-rack decal. If not, I'll call Emmons Co.
Marty,.....I finally used that C6th changer finger you sold me a while back. I swapped it in after I got the back changer apart. BTW, the C6th axle is galled a full 360 degrees, so I'm just gonna replace both axles.
re-mica vs. keep original?
The back deck edge is similarly nicked.
The only casualty so far is the Emmons badge, which has a broken corner. If anyone has an extra one, I'd be interested in buying it....same goes for a pedal-rack decal. If not, I'll call Emmons Co.
Marty,.....I finally used that C6th changer finger you sold me a while back. I swapped it in after I got the back changer apart. BTW, the C6th axle is galled a full 360 degrees, so I'm just gonna replace both axles.
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- Roger Crawford
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- David Doggett
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I seem to remember a discussion about formica which mentioned that it is applied with a lot of pressure while the glue dries, and this affects the tone. If you can't duplicate that process, maybe it would be best to leave the original mica. You could consider it part of the character of this vintage instrument. It doesn't all have to shine like new.
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glass beading
Tony, I used my glass beader and the paint came right off the pedals. I can polish them for you if you send them to me. I have 2 Baldor buffers and have been polishing since the 70's.
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- Tony Glassman
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- Location: The Great Northwest
New mica wins!
I'm shipping it out to Mike Cass, who'll do the mica work. He installs it with some sort of heat/pressure process, that takes about a week or so. Fellow forumite Dave Kellogg is gonna help out w/ some buffing.
I got to take a couple of pieces of drill rod to be cut and chamfered for axles. Also the pedal rack bar was badly scored, so I'll need to cut and tap a new one.
Finally I'll get to re-assemble, add another 1/2 stop and vertical knee lever....and then set it up.
I'm shipping it out to Mike Cass, who'll do the mica work. He installs it with some sort of heat/pressure process, that takes about a week or so. Fellow forumite Dave Kellogg is gonna help out w/ some buffing.
I got to take a couple of pieces of drill rod to be cut and chamfered for axles. Also the pedal rack bar was badly scored, so I'll need to cut and tap a new one.
Finally I'll get to re-assemble, add another 1/2 stop and vertical knee lever....and then set it up.
- Tony Glassman
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- Lynn Stafford
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Emmons Rebuild
Hi Tony,
Wow..it looks fantastic!! Mike did a real nice job for you and I can't wait to see it put back together. I'm sure it will look like a million bucks when you're done with it!!
Sorry we missed you and Karen, Saturday at Duffs...We had a gig that evening.
Take care,
Lynn
Wow..it looks fantastic!! Mike did a real nice job for you and I can't wait to see it put back together. I'm sure it will look like a million bucks when you're done with it!!
Sorry we missed you and Karen, Saturday at Duffs...We had a gig that evening.
Take care,
Lynn
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Tony,
You have put a lot of effort into this rebuild. Don't skimp on the axles. Buy new ones from Emmons. I had the same issues on my PP and I had Emmons send me new axles. My guitar works great now. Plus I don't have to regret not doing it right the first time. What could be more important that the axles?
Paul
You have put a lot of effort into this rebuild. Don't skimp on the axles. Buy new ones from Emmons. I had the same issues on my PP and I had Emmons send me new axles. My guitar works great now. Plus I don't have to regret not doing it right the first time. What could be more important that the axles?
Paul
- Tony Glassman
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Not to worry!Paul Sutherland wrote:Tony,
You have put a lot of effort into this rebuild. Don't skimp on the axles. Buy new ones from Emmons. I had the same issues on my PP and I had Emmons send me new axles. My guitar works great now. Plus I don't have to regret not doing it right the first time. What could be more important that the axles?Paul
Lynn Stafford gave me a couple of lengths of drill rod, which I've since had machined to match my old axles.
- Tony Glassman
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- Location: The Great Northwest
Well......I'm finally getting back to the re-build. Due to the heat-wave, new job, 30th wedding anniversary and general laziness, I took a month-long break.
Today I re-did the changer axles, using 2 lengths of drill rod after buffing with greaseless 400 grit compound followed by green compound. (look how scarred the old one was!). I then sanded (crocus cloth) and buffed the changer heads (white rouge?) to remove the string-wear grooves. Lastly the changers were reassembled and installed. Here's some pix.......
Today I re-did the changer axles, using 2 lengths of drill rod after buffing with greaseless 400 grit compound followed by green compound. (look how scarred the old one was!). I then sanded (crocus cloth) and buffed the changer heads (white rouge?) to remove the string-wear grooves. Lastly the changers were reassembled and installed. Here's some pix.......
Last edited by Tony Glassman on 17 Sep 2009 11:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Bout time
Bout time you got going on this, though you would have her runnin by now. Looking good.
- Tony Glassman
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- Ernie Renn
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- Tony Glassman
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- Tony Glassman
- Posts: 4470
- Joined: 18 Jan 2005 1:01 am
- Location: The Great Northwest
At Last!
Finally got off my butt and finished her up today. She sounds killer, plays great and has good sustain up in Huey-land.
Here's the results:
RKR half-stop mechanism I designed....it works pretty well!
Thanks to:
Mike Cass (for an excellent re-mica job), Dave Kellogg (for de anodizing and buffing most of the levers), Jim Palenscar, Lynn Stafford and Doug Palmer for having/making replacement parts, Ron Lashley Jr for advice, and Dan O'Neill, my machinist pal.
Here's the results:
RKR half-stop mechanism I designed....it works pretty well!
Thanks to:
Mike Cass (for an excellent re-mica job), Dave Kellogg (for de anodizing and buffing most of the levers), Jim Palenscar, Lynn Stafford and Doug Palmer for having/making replacement parts, Ron Lashley Jr for advice, and Dan O'Neill, my machinist pal.
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