ZB Pedal Steel Guitars - Please help!

Jimmie Martin · Post by **Jimmie Martin** » 1 May 2009 5:59 am

These are some of the most beautifull guitars in the world. Too bad i'll never be able to afford 1.

Chuck Hall · Post by **Chuck Hall** » 1 May 2009 6:46 am

ZB just went over the top with
2001 replies

Chuck

Russ Tkac · Post by **Russ Tkac** » 2 May 2009 10:35 am

My 1971 D-10. Gone but not forgotten.

Paul Frank Bloomfield · Post by **Paul Frank Bloomfield** » 3 May 2009 10:24 pm

Ah, Russ ! you can never get fed up with looking at
ZB guitars ,that sure looks like a beauty to me !
And congratulations to Larry for a super thread on
the best guitars out !
All the best
Frank. Corfu

Ben Elder · Post by **Ben Elder** » 5 May 2009 9:53 am

I've just had an inquiry about the s/n 336S student model shown a few posts back: anybody know if two more knee levers can be successfully added? The postcard in my earlier post suggests yes, but with at least three distinct versions extant, I'm not leaping to conclusions.

Jerry Kline · Post by **Jerry Kline** » 11 May 2009 3:47 am

ebay--D10 8/4 Open till 13 May.

Dave Zirbel · Post by **Dave Zirbel** » 11 May 2009 5:11 am

Ben, have you sold your student model ZB?

Question for all you ZBers: How many of you use a wound 6th G# on your E9 neck?

Thanks
Dave

Russ Tkac · Post by **Russ Tkac** » 11 May 2009 6:17 am

I did on my ZB's and do on my Emmons.

Bob Hamilton · Post by **Bob Hamilton** » 11 May 2009 7:15 am

Hi Dave, I use a plain 20 as you know, 'cause I lower the 6th a whole tone. Still entertaining the DZB idea?

Kevin Hatton · Post by **Kevin Hatton** » 11 May 2009 10:37 am

For anyone buying a used ZB, plan on extra costs of between $500 and $1000 for rework and setup. ZB's MUST be set up properly in order to play well.

chris ivey · Post by **chris ivey** » 11 May 2009 11:31 am

gee kevin, can't you just buy one that works? i'm not falling for your concept. not everyone is totally inept at mechanical logic issues.

richard burton · Post by **richard burton** » 11 May 2009 11:34 am

I use a wound .022 sixth string.
As I drop it a full tone, I had to 'breathe' slightly on the changer mechanism to make it co-operate

Dave Van Allen · Post by **Dave Van Allen** » 12 May 2009 9:18 am

I use a wound 6th. I only lower it a half.

Kevin Hatton · Post by **Kevin Hatton** » 12 May 2009 10:02 am

Chris, do you own one?

Joe A. Camacho · Post by **Joe A. Camacho** » 12 May 2009 10:09 am

Hey Dave,
I've been using the Ricky Davis Jagwire strings, which has a wound 22 6th string on my ZBs and Sho-Buds and I've never had a problem. Btw Dave Gonzalez was singing your praises the other night down here.
Joe

Dave Zirbel · Post by **Dave Zirbel** » 12 May 2009 12:06 pm

Thanks guys. I put a wound on my S10 ZB. Been using a plain for 20 years. It's a lot easier to adjust the balanced pull with the wound. It was a struggle with the plain plus wound has nicer tone to my ears, and seems to stay in tune better. It makes the pedal feel not as tight though but I can't work around that. I may stick with it on the S10 and leave the plain on the D10 since it's dialed in real tight.

Yeah Joe, Dave G is a great guy to know and play music with. He's a huge steel guitar fan and lets his players get their licks in for sure! I'd ask you to tell him hello but I'll see him in a week or two....can't wait!

Dave

Dave Ristrim · Post by **Dave Ristrim** » 19 May 2009 12:56 pm

Greg is finishing up my S12 ZB. I've never even seen it in person, went from the seller straight to Greg. I should have it in a couple weeks or so. No hurry Greg, if you read this.

Kevin Hatton · Post by **Kevin Hatton** » 19 May 2009 4:37 pm

That ZB is sure to function accurately with Greg doing a proper set up. You're gonna like it.

Ben Turner · Post by **Ben Turner** » 20 May 2009 12:20 am

My dad always played a ZB. It was THE guitar he always bragged about the TONE. Even after his purchase of a brand new steel (shortly after I began playing @ 13) he still liked the tone of the ZB, and the natural beauty. As I did. I thought it was the prettiest thing I'd ever seen. He always bragged on how low the serial # was. Unfortunately I can't remember what it was. It was purchased shortly after he had a bad car accident in the 10th grade as a surprise from his father. I know for fact it was purchased at Johnson's Music in Batesburg/Columbia area of SC back in 70-71. Shortly after it was sold to a close friend of ours about 5 years ago, it was stolen, sold to a pawn shop and listed on eBay. This was after I started playing, and I told the guy personally if he ever got rid of it to give us first shot at it. Unfortunately again, the bid went several hundred higher than we sold it for and couldn't afford it at the time. Even before I started playing I'd help him carry this thing around with his original AMPEG amp. BTW, can anyone tell me what model amp it is by these pics? I know it had a 15" EV speaker in it, which was put in in the 70's shortly after he purchased it, which was bought new. I'm almost certain it had a 15" originally, just not as powerful. I know for several years after the Amp had quit, he tried getting a head and using the same speaker, but lost his "sound" completely and was lost up until the purchase of a Session 400 Ltd. Any ideas? Funny story. He was on stage in a club upstate SC one night, pickin' away on a song. Little did he know the amp was ON FIRE behind him. His band had to get his attention; Funny thing though, the amp still rang out clear notes throughout the solo part. Now that he's not with us anymore I wish somehow I could find the steel, but I am doubtful of that ever happening, especially not knowing the serial.

Joe A. Camacho · Post by **Joe A. Camacho** » 21 May 2009 5:20 pm

So I've got a little problem, these 3, well mostly on the A & B pedals, these bolts continue to come loose. Do I just continue to tighten them or is there a solution, no Duncan the solution isn't to ship the guitar back to you. thanks, Joe

Billy Knowles · Post by **Billy Knowles** » 21 May 2009 6:02 pm

Joe
I am afraid that there is no solution other than taking the rack off the front apron and re-brad the 10/32 hex head screws. You also could remove the 10/32 screws carefully, re-thread the holes put new screws in and brad them with a punch. I have not had any luck with things such as locktite. The only premanent solutation is to fix the screws. Another fix is to take the rack off and put lock nuts on new 10/32 screws but that also requires drilling a hole in the front apron for the pedals that you do this for so that the rack will fit back level on the back of the front apron but if you chose this method you need to be really careful in drilling the holes. If you go through you have distroyed your guitar in apprarence.
Billy

Kevin Hatton · Post by **Kevin Hatton** » 21 May 2009 6:03 pm

Pedal rack has got to come out. Normally, the screws are ground off on the other side. If you back those screws out you will strip the threads and have to retap. Aren't ZB's fun? Like owning a Steudabacker. One reason we love 'em.

Joe A. Camacho · Post by **Joe A. Camacho** » 21 May 2009 9:10 pm

So is it a bad idea for me to continue playing it and re-tightening as needed?

Kevin Hatton · Post by **Kevin Hatton** » 21 May 2009 9:28 pm

Not at all. Just a pain in the !@#%%. This is how we got to be expert ZB mechanics. Because on alot of fixes you have to disassemble the whole guitar. Try changing out a pickup. That'll keep ypu busy for a while (disassenble the guitar). A great insentive to rebuild one 100% absolutely correct the first time. Then you don't have to do it again for a long time.

Ben Turner · Post by **Ben Turner** » 21 May 2009 9:52 pm

Kevin Hatton wrote:Not at all. Just a pain in the !@#%%.

But they sure are perdy!

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