Steel Guitar Clean-Up

Keith Banning · Post by **Keith Banning** » 10 Apr 2009 7:37 am

Hi All,

I have a a Sho-Bud LDG that needs some cleaning up. Any suggestions on what to use on the wood finish and what to use to polish/brighten up the hardware? Looks like a bit of a project. I don't want to do any damage to the finish or hardware finish obviously.

Also, who does nice professional Sho-Bud restoration these days? I checked with Jeffrey Surratt but he's pretty busy with new guitars.

Thanks,
Keith

Randy Gilliam · Post by **Randy Gilliam** » 10 Apr 2009 8:26 am

Ricky Davis Does Great Work. Randy

Kevin Hatton · Post by **Kevin Hatton** » 10 Apr 2009 10:38 am

Ricky Davis.

Tim Woodall · Post by **Tim Woodall** » 10 Apr 2009 4:44 pm

Ricky Davis did a great job on mine

Johnny Thomasson · Post by **Johnny Thomasson** » 11 Apr 2009 9:48 am

Ricky made mine look and play like it just came from the factory.

James Morehead · Post by **James Morehead** » 11 Apr 2009 4:44 pm

Ricky is the un-contested "Shobud whisperer". Ricky's 'de man!!

Tommy Shown · Post by **Tommy Shown** » 11 Apr 2009 11:50 pm

On the keys and the down near the roller I would recomend Mothers Aluminum polish. I put on the aluminum trim on my Emmons and it looks like a brand new guitar. BTW I also used it on my pedal rack too.
Talk about shine, when the light hits it.
Tommy

Bob Mainwaring · Post by **Bob Mainwaring** » 12 Apr 2009 9:45 am

The "ONLY" aluminum polish I've ever used for anything made and polished originaly out of aluminum is Solvol Autosol.
It comes in a toothpaste sized tube. I used/sold it for many years in a motorcycle business and even polishing little scratches in something like a plastic wristwatch dial covering will eliminate them.

All Z.B.est.

Bob Mainwaring

Keith Banning · Post by **Keith Banning** » 13 Apr 2009 9:51 pm

I tried a little bit of Flitz (because it's what I had on hand) and it seemed to polish it a little better...but not w/o great effort. I'll check out some of these other suggested products.

Thanks guys.
Keith

Dave Diehl · Post by **Dave Diehl** » 14 Apr 2009 3:19 am

You can clean the body (lacquer and mica) with a good car cleaner for clear coat finishes. Then put a good car wax over it. It'll make a world of difference. As for the aluminum, Mothers alum mag polish works great. I've sanded the endplates before and then worked them with Mothers and they come out with a mirror finish.

John Billings · Post by **John Billings** » 14 Apr 2009 12:29 pm

On this little S-10, I used Mequiar's Professional Swirl Remover 2.0. Did that 3 or 4 times. Then, believe it or not, Nu Finish once a year car polish. The stuff in the orange container. Couple coats of that. Mequiar's Show Car Glaze. Couple coats of that too.
I polished all the changer parts, the keyhead and the Grover's on my bench buffer. Sanded the endplates and rack up to 1200 wet and dry, then took them to a plating/ polishing company in Cleveland. I think he charged me $30. After I took this pic, I removed the white residue with an old, worn out, soft toothbrush.

Daniel Eaton · Post by **Daniel Eaton** » 14 Apr 2009 3:47 pm

Tripoly Black and then another round of Tripoly brown. I just finished my Pro 2 and for a left handed screwdriver type person it looks pretty good. I do advise that you tie back any long hair if you're going to use a dremel on small parts and your eyes are as bad as mine. I have a one inch round bald spot in the middle of my left cheek.And did I mention there are times I'm not very smart either

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