'' Mica Polish ''
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- Gary Preston
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'' Mica Polish ''
Hey guys . I was wondering what everyone uses to polish their mica bodies on their pedal steel guitars ?
Thanks in advance . G.P.
Thanks in advance . G.P.
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polish
Gary I Use Pledge Works Great Put It On Let It Set About 2 Mi. Wipe Off with Something Soft It Will Shine And Clean At The Same Time. SONNY.
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It depends on your mica.
If you have the old black Formica Brand mica from the 1960s, for example, you can polish out scratches and still retain the black color. If you have newer mica, you will go through the black and get gray or whitish coming through, I have heard.
On my old Emmons guitars I have polished the mica with rubbing compound and the only downside is that I have turned "flattish" mica into gloss.
FYI, on guitars that have had Emmons stickers replaced with Emmons badges with screws, I have filled the screw holes with black Crazy Glue from Luthier's Mercantiie sold for repairing ebony fretboards) and polished the glue flat with wet/dry and rubbing compound.
If you have the old black Formica Brand mica from the 1960s, for example, you can polish out scratches and still retain the black color. If you have newer mica, you will go through the black and get gray or whitish coming through, I have heard.
On my old Emmons guitars I have polished the mica with rubbing compound and the only downside is that I have turned "flattish" mica into gloss.
FYI, on guitars that have had Emmons stickers replaced with Emmons badges with screws, I have filled the screw holes with black Crazy Glue from Luthier's Mercantiie sold for repairing ebony fretboards) and polished the glue flat with wet/dry and rubbing compound.
- Jack Stoner
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- Michael Haselman
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I wouldn't!I was told by a reliable source to use gasoline.
But I'm not telling you to do that.
"mica" (why that became the term is anyone's guess) is just a term for Formica, a type of plastic sheet made of paper or cloth with melamine resin (and a trademarked brand name). It's an ancient technology as far as plastics go, from the early 20th century - and 99% of what is called "mica" or Formica" nowadays in normal conversation isn't made that way. The Formica company makes everything from plastics to faux-wood veneers.
Basically ANY plastic that comes in a thin sheet is invariably called "formica" in normal usage.
SO the cleaning depends on what TYPE of plastic it is - since the term "formica" is used for the brand-name stuff (of which there are a multitude of formulations) and all the similar products, you either have to test solvent-based cleaners on a hidden surface to see if you get a reaction, or stay with mild cleaners like dish soap/water or citrus-based cleaners.
I would not get acetone (nail polish remover) or Windex (ammoniated) andywhere near it - Windex especially if the guitar is also aluminum, as ammoniated cleaners WILL pit the heck out of aluminum over time - even AFTER you've wiped it off. The only solvent you might try (on a removed piece..on the back) is naphtha, aka lighter fluid (like the Ronson stuff) - it usually is safe with plastics, cleans them and removes both dirt and sticker gunk.
But your safest bet is just water and dish or hand soap with a soft cotton cloth. Nothing abrasive, and no solvent unless you test first.
Last - DO NOT try to polish it (Jack's method is probably safe as Teflon-based polishes have very mild abrasives - but use auto polishing compound and your "mica" could be toast)- some types have a thin color veneer and polishing quickly exposes the gray base material.
Hope that helps.
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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Mica polish
I use Harley Gloss. It's non-abrasive and makes it shine like a diamond and doesn't attract dust.
Carter D10 8 & 5, NV112, FLSTC
- Jack Stoner
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The "mica" on my Franklin is Nevamar brand. I use the polish I mentioned on all parts, the fretboards, polished aluminum and the mica. I don't know what brand Emmons used on the 1971 models but I had it for 12 years and polished it and it didn't harm the mica.
One other thing, you can touch the polished aluminum or wherever on the guitar and it won't leave fingerprints.
The polish I've used for the last 6 or 7 years is a flea market Teflon based brand "Las Vegas Show Car Polish" but I've seen the identical stuff sold under different names at different flea markets.
One other thing, you can touch the polished aluminum or wherever on the guitar and it won't leave fingerprints.
The polish I've used for the last 6 or 7 years is a flea market Teflon based brand "Las Vegas Show Car Polish" but I've seen the identical stuff sold under different names at different flea markets.
Chris made a good point about going thru the new mica easily. If I have a guitar stripped to the body for restoration and Im saving the mica I'll use a car buffer to apply the polishing compound, pressing just enough to polish.
However, a great quick-clean for an assembled guitar is to use a de-greaser product available at most Auto Zone stores; its called Prep-All and its harmless to metal, mica, lacquer, fretboards and decals/badges. A quick wipe-down with a soft,clean cloth dampened with the stuff followed by a second wipe-down with a soft,dry cloth will restore most intact finishes to a fine luster without the possibilty of making scratch marks. The Emmons factory used this for years(under the name Prep-Sol)to wipe down their guitars prior to casing and shipping. In my experience, while applying a polish to the mica may give it a bit more shine, if your mica is not sctratched and just dirty Id try the Prep-All first. I sent a bottle to David Hartley and he was quite satisfied with the results.
There was another product I found called UV-2 which was distributed by NAPA Auto Parts. It gave an extremely nice shine after applying it and allowing it to dry overnight. Go back and wipe it down the next day and you'll be surprised what it'll do. The downside to UV-2 is that in a few months the mica will again take on its former appearance. But this stuff works like Olde English Scratch Cover, only for mica surfaces. Ive seen it bring a really dinged up, milky mica finish back to new after 1 or 2 applications, but only for a few months. Worth it though if your mica is old and shows it.
However, a great quick-clean for an assembled guitar is to use a de-greaser product available at most Auto Zone stores; its called Prep-All and its harmless to metal, mica, lacquer, fretboards and decals/badges. A quick wipe-down with a soft,clean cloth dampened with the stuff followed by a second wipe-down with a soft,dry cloth will restore most intact finishes to a fine luster without the possibilty of making scratch marks. The Emmons factory used this for years(under the name Prep-Sol)to wipe down their guitars prior to casing and shipping. In my experience, while applying a polish to the mica may give it a bit more shine, if your mica is not sctratched and just dirty Id try the Prep-All first. I sent a bottle to David Hartley and he was quite satisfied with the results.
There was another product I found called UV-2 which was distributed by NAPA Auto Parts. It gave an extremely nice shine after applying it and allowing it to dry overnight. Go back and wipe it down the next day and you'll be surprised what it'll do. The downside to UV-2 is that in a few months the mica will again take on its former appearance. But this stuff works like Olde English Scratch Cover, only for mica surfaces. Ive seen it bring a really dinged up, milky mica finish back to new after 1 or 2 applications, but only for a few months. Worth it though if your mica is old and shows it.
- Erv Niehaus
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- Gary Preston
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- Gary Preston
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Gary,
I dont know if they use that particular item, but I left a bottle of it there last Jan. after building several guitars for them.
PrepAll isnt a polish, but a degreaser. That makes it good for formica as the only thing besides scratches that dull mica are grease/liquor/smoke or plain old dirt & fingerprints. PrepAll would only produce positive results if you have new or new looking mica to begin with, so in your case Gary it should do the trick.
Older mica would require a try at polishing though, I would think. After I polish mica I do use PrepAll to wipe off the excess compound.
I dont know if they use that particular item, but I left a bottle of it there last Jan. after building several guitars for them.
PrepAll isnt a polish, but a degreaser. That makes it good for formica as the only thing besides scratches that dull mica are grease/liquor/smoke or plain old dirt & fingerprints. PrepAll would only produce positive results if you have new or new looking mica to begin with, so in your case Gary it should do the trick.
Older mica would require a try at polishing though, I would think. After I polish mica I do use PrepAll to wipe off the excess compound.
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Gary,
For a show Car finish, use Meguiar's Mirrow Glaze Professional #7.. It's non abrasive, and really puts a shine on. As well as protects it.
Hope that helps. "It's not cheap, but then too, neither are guitars..."
PS: Hope you're getting lots of enjoyment out of it now that you've had time to play it for a while.
Don
For a show Car finish, use Meguiar's Mirrow Glaze Professional #7.. It's non abrasive, and really puts a shine on. As well as protects it.
Hope that helps. "It's not cheap, but then too, neither are guitars..."
PS: Hope you're getting lots of enjoyment out of it now that you've had time to play it for a while.
Don
- Gary Preston
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- Location: Columbus, Ohio, USA
Thanks for the tips guys . I just want it to keep looking new for a long time .
Don i am getting use to it now and it feels real good . My wife tells me that it sounds better than the first guitar . It does sing to me and has great tone . I still need to get busy and get the counterforce dialed in . It doesn't keep the strings from ''de-tuning '' just a little . But the bar placement can cover that and no one has said ''hey your counterforce isn't working right '' yet ! All things considered i suppose i'm happy with it and it's a ''keeper '' ! It is lots lighter than my ''Buds '' ! Our group played last Saturday evening and the leader said the guitar does sound good . He liked my Buds as well . Thanks . G.P.
Don i am getting use to it now and it feels real good . My wife tells me that it sounds better than the first guitar . It does sing to me and has great tone . I still need to get busy and get the counterforce dialed in . It doesn't keep the strings from ''de-tuning '' just a little . But the bar placement can cover that and no one has said ''hey your counterforce isn't working right '' yet ! All things considered i suppose i'm happy with it and it's a ''keeper '' ! It is lots lighter than my ''Buds '' ! Our group played last Saturday evening and the leader said the guitar does sound good . He liked my Buds as well . Thanks . G.P.
- Danny Hullihen
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Mica Polish
Give this a try. Many guitar builders use it.
http://www.jagwirestrings.biz/catalog/c25_p1.html
http://www.jagwirestrings.biz/catalog/c25_p1.html
- Gary Preston
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- Glen Derksen
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- Danny Hullihen
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- Location: Harrison, Michigan
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Jagwire Polish
Thanks guys. Please use the link if you want to place a product order.
Thanks,
Danny
http://www.jagwirestrings.biz/catalog/c25_p1.html
Thanks,
Danny
http://www.jagwirestrings.biz/catalog/c25_p1.html