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Topic: Wooden bridge inserts for a resonator guitar. |
John McGlothlin
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Posted 13 Dec 2008 7:06 am |
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| Is there anywhere on the face of this wide world where a person could find bridge inserts for a resonator guitar that already has the grooves cut into them? I'm referring to the spider bridge...I've tried Stewart MacDonald along with several makers and suppliers of parts for resonators and nobody has them already grooved. I can't rely on my own judgment on doing it myself and I don't want anyone who is not a professional luthier to do it. Like I say...I can find the inserts and other replacement parts but the grooved inserts are impossible to find. |
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Dave Sky
From:
Columbus, Ohio, USA
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John McGlothlin
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Posted 13 Dec 2008 8:53 am
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| Thanks a million Dave and have a Merry Christmas. Susan and John |
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Steve Branscom
From:
Pacific NW
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Mark Eaton
From:
Sonoma County in The Great State Of Northern California
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Posted 13 Dec 2008 4:08 pm
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And out of all of those available at Resophonic Outfitters, if I were doing it I would go for the ebony capped maple. You will get nice clear note articulation with that bridge - not to say you won't with other natural materials - but that one is my favorite.
But I have to tell you, these days I have a man-made bridge material in my Clinesmith, of ebonex - and that's my all-time favorite. Todd Clinesmith installed it in my guitar, but I don't know where you get them.
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Mark |
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Don Barnhardt
From:
North Carolina, USA
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Posted 13 Dec 2008 5:14 pm
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| It's really not that difficult to lay out your own notches. the string should be a straight line from the nut to the tailpiece. String up your instrument with the un-notched inserts in place. The strings should line up at the proper intervals. Take a sharp pencil or knife blade and make a mark on each side of the strings. Cut your notches between these marks. |
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Lynn Oliver
From:
Redmond, Washington USA * R.I.P.
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Posted 13 Dec 2008 5:59 pm
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| And you need to make sure to cut the notches so that the tops of all the strings are level. |
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John Jeffries
From:
New Brunswick, Canada
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Posted 25 Dec 2008 8:01 am
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I have had very good luck with saddle inserts made of Hornbeam, which is a very hard wood - sometimes called Ironwood! I usually laminate an ebony cap on the top. I like it better than maple...it seems to transmit the natural string volume & tone very well, and allows for good string separation.
Hornbeam is well known for its hardness, toughness, & strength.It was traditionally used for coach wheels, whiffle-trees, wagon tongues, tool handles, carving boards, etc. It is a very strong and hard wood and is difficult to break, but because of these qualities, it is hard to work with, so I expect it is not used very much in wood craft (carving, etc.). |
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Dean Gray
From:
New South Wales, Australia
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Posted 25 Dec 2008 9:22 am
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John, I got mine from Janet Davis. My DeGruchy squareneck reso came with ebony capped inserts, and was a little too bright for my liking. I now have the birch inserts from Janet and the sound (to my ear) has mellowed somewhat. Oh, and they were preslotted/grooved!
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If it’s on the ground it can’t fall down. |
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Howard Parker
From:
Maryland
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Posted 25 Dec 2008 10:37 am
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All usual suspects sell the Beard inserts which are available slotted and unslotted. Materials choices are maple, birch and ebony capped maple.
h
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Howard Parker
03\' Carter D-10
70\'s Dekley D-10
52\' Fender Custom
Many guitars by Paul Beard
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