Scratched bars

[Jody Perritt]

I have 3 or 4 scratched bars and I wondered whats the best way, if any, to buff the scratches out? The scratches aren't THAT deep, but enough to create the grinding tone on the wound strings. One of the bars is a hand me down from my granfather that i used to really like. So buying a new one just isn't what I'm looking for, before someone suggest that!

[Edward Meisse]

Well, Jody, if the bar is a keepsake, why not just leave it at that. It has value as a keepsake in memory of your grandfather. But getting the best sound out your guitar is another issue in my view. I'd carry the old bar in the guitar case with me in memory of my grandfather. And I'd get a Tribotone to play with.

[Ray Langley]

I agree with Ed..... BUT.....

Take them to a competent electroplater.
They can buff it down. They can give it
a flash coat of copper and keep buffing
it down until it shines. Then they can
coat it with hard chrome which is harder
than steel.

My first job was as an electroplater about
45 years ago. It won't cost all that much
either. Good Luck. I understand bout sentiment.

[Ron Whitfield]

Per your Grand-dad's bar, and not that you havn't considered it long ago..., but replating will eliminate the 'it was his' aspect to a major degree. However, if it's a super player and you really want to use it, maybe the sacrifice is worth it.
Ed's suggestion is probably what I'd do, if I could afford and justify the cost of a Tribotone.

[Paul Arntson]

Hi Jody -
On a plated bar, you have to restore the plating because the thing will always feel different when the unplated surface touches the strings. And look weird, too. So none of my info below applies to a plated bar.

I have had good luck on brass and unplated bars using sandpaper starting at a grit about the size of the scratches (too big a grit and you'll just make more scratches you have to take out) and working my way finer and finer ending up with rouge polish on a buffing wheel. Auto paints stores sell body work sandpaper like 2200 grit. The rouge polish is in a waxy brick red bar that you hold against the buffing wheel to get a little on the wheel. Sometimes you have to use a solvent to take the last bits off the metal after buffing.

If you have to sand a lot of material, be sure to use a flat backing so you don't put a warble in the bar that will cause a high spot off the strings.

As you go, most of your checking can be done with a bright light and by catching a reflection off the bar.