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Topic: Question on switching between diffenrent string gauges |
Guido Hausmann
From:
Gütersloh, NRW Germany
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Posted 1 Oct 2008 7:00 am |
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i want to check out some different string gauges to find out which one works best with me and my LDG!
is it no problem to change it or do i have to adjust the mechanics a bit? cause, i don't wanna do that!
i now use a nickel set with this gauges:
.013 .015 .0115 .014 .018 .020 .026 .030 .034 .036
and want to switch to stainless steel:
.012 .015 .0115 .014 .018 .022 .026 .030 .034 .038
so, just put the new set on and tune it??
would be happy if anyone can give me tips for strings, gauges, brands, sounds and so on...
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Sho~Bud Pro II, Sho~Bud LDG, Fender '79 Vibrosonic 1x15 JBL, Fender '72 Bandmaster Reverb + Custom 2x12 Vintage Alnico Cab, Fender 75 1x15", Randall Steel Man 500, Peavey Session 500, Goodrich L120, Sho~Bud Pedal
www.facebook.com/guido.luckylola |
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Charles Davidson
From:
Phenix City Alabama, USA
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Posted 1 Oct 2008 8:26 am
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You may have to do a little adjustment on your six and tenth string,you may be able to do this with the nylon tuners,should'nt take much.DYKBC.
_________________
Hard headed, opinionated old geezer. BAMA CHARLIE. GOD BLESS AMERICA. ANIMAL RIGHTS ACTIVIST. SUPPORT LIVE MUSIC ! |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 1 Oct 2008 8:35 am
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| The only place substantial mechanical adjustment is very likely to be needed would be if you changed from a plain to a wound string for string 6. |
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John Bechtel
From:
Nashville, Tennessee, R.I.P.
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Posted 1 Oct 2008 10:28 am
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The above opinion is also my opinion! The only adjustments will be to your nylon-tuners. The only time you would need a linkage-change would be if you change str. #6 to a wound-string! I see no reason to even try a wound 6th. string! I only ever heard of one model of Sho-Bud Changer that recommended a .022w on #6. My suggestion for LDG str.-gauges is: 1.(.012p/.013p), 2.(.015p), 3.(.011p), 4.(.014p), 5.(.017), 6.(.020p/.022p), 7.(.026w), 8.(.030w), 9.(.034w), 10.(.036w) If it isn't broken, don't fix it!
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<marquee> Go~Daddy~Go, (No), Go, It's your Break Time</marquee> L8R, jb
My T-10 Remington Steelmaster
Last edited by John Bechtel on 1 Oct 2008 3:05 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Stu Schulman
From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
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Posted 1 Oct 2008 10:43 am
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John,Would a .017 instead of a .018 give a little longer throw,and softer pedal action?Thanks,Stu 
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Steeltronics Z-pickup,Desert Rose S-10 4+5,Desert Rose Keyless S-10 3+5... Mullen G2 S-10 3+5,Telonics 206 pickups,Telonics volume pedal.,Blanton SD -10,Emmons GS_10...Zirctone bar,Bill Groner Bar...any amp that isn't broken.Steel Seat.Com seats...Licking paint chips off of Chinese Toys since 1952. |
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John Bechtel
From:
Nashville, Tennessee, R.I.P.
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Posted 1 Oct 2008 11:22 am
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.017p requires a tiny-bit more(?) travel to complete the change than .018p. (not really noticeable) .013p, .015p, .011p, .014p .017p, .020p, .026w, .030w,.034w, .36w are the original gauges for Sho-Bud PSG's. Any ‘improvement’ in gauges would be greatly influenced by what kinds of changes are being made in the copedent! Examples: If you Lower #6 (1-tone) to F#, then perhaps a .022p would work better! If you Raise #1 (1-tone) to G# then perhaps a .012p would work better and if you Raise #8 (1-tone) to F#, then perhaps a .028w would feel better and if you Lower #5 or #10 to A, then a .018p or .038w might work/feel better! It depends a lot on your copedent! I use only Nickel-Wound strings!
_________________
<marquee> Go~Daddy~Go, (No), Go, It's your Break Time</marquee> L8R, jb
My T-10 Remington Steelmaster
Last edited by John Bechtel on 1 Oct 2008 3:10 pm; edited 3 times in total |
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mike nolan
From:
Forest Hills, NY USA
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Posted 1 Oct 2008 1:52 pm
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| I have been using the Jagwire Ricky Davis set on my LDGs and my S-10 Sho~Buds for several years now.... I really like the tone and feel. They are fairly heavy, so you will have to tweek up the pedal travel a bit. The set comes with a 022 wound 6th. I lower 6 on the S-10 so I replace it with a 022 plain. I am very happy with the 012 on string 3. |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 1 Oct 2008 2:08 pm
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A couple of rules-of-thumb--
---with two different gauges in the same position, the heavier string will be under greater tension and require a little less movement for the same raise. So an .018 on the 5th string will require a slight tweak, backing off at the nylon tuner compared with a .017. Same deal with a .012 vs. an .011.
Stainless vs. nickel----
---this is only an observation (thru experience).....stainless seems to need a little less movement than nickel for the same raise or lower.
But this is a difficult conclusion because it is all about the gauge of the core of the string. I cannot be sure that when I made substitutions and arrived at my observations the strings I used had identical cores. So all I can say is that with the strings I tried, stainless had more pitch change for the same amount of movement.
This came in handy as the solution to a couple of changes that I was having trouble getting on a particular guitar. With SS strings I was able to just barely get there while with nickel it was just out of reach. |
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Larry Bressington
From:
Nebraska
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Posted 2 Oct 2008 6:36 pm
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Dont go too light if you are doing live work, the lighter you go the worse it gets, i went back to a wound 22 on the 6th and a 40 on the bottom, and my tuning has been very very stable in humid, warm, cold, indoor, outdoor venues all year round. I used to run 20 plain on the 6th and the 17 on the 5th, too light, but works great at home though, it depends on what you are wanting from your instrument and what enviroments are you in.
I use this on MSA, SHO-BUD and EMMONS guitars.
I also wind my statocaster with a heavy gauge after 25 years, i finally figured it out, you can chicken pick and flatpick with thicker strings, thats why bluegrass pickers have very thick strings, volume and tuning stability, stevie ray also did that, its a little more work, but it pays off in tuning stability.There are no rules, just find your home with it, with exsperimenting. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 4 Oct 2008 6:56 am
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| Quote: |
| thats why bluegrass pickers have very thick strings, volume and tuning stability, |
FWIW that practice died about 20 years ago for the most part. 90% of the bluegrass flatpickers use nothing heavier than medium-gage strings, as modern styles require a lot of up-the-neck playing and not just "boom-chick" rhythm.
I also USED to think heavier strings were the way to go - but about 15 years ago I started experimenting with a very light 3rd on 6-string for bending, eventually going back to all light-gage strings. I set the amp(s) higher and find I can play with much more of a "touch-controlled" style than I could with railroad tracks for strings.
On steel I use fairly heavy strings, but also an odd copedent that''s tuned down to B6 (more in a guitar-like range). I find heavy, stiff strings on steel also mess up your attack, as you have to always hit 'em pretty hard to get a full tone. It gets very tiring. Lighter strings and more volume at the amp allows me to control things much better - and I run into NO tuning stability issues at all. Stretch your strings a few times as you are installing and bringing them up to pitch - then do something I read years ago (I think it was by Mike Auldridge) - after you restring, if you can let the guitar sit for 12-24 hours unplayed. This is especially necessary if you change gages. The guitar will reach a sort of equilibrium based on the tension, and it really does work - you'll need far fewer adjustments to your tuning..
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No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Larry Bressington
From:
Nebraska
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Posted 5 Oct 2008 1:52 pm
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Thats very true jim, i have exsperimented with many types and agree with lighter strings and the flexibilty, however i prefer a slightly heavier[ not too heavy] for live work. Especially ourdoor venue's  |
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Guido Hausmann
From:
Gütersloh, NRW Germany
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Posted 5 Oct 2008 11:36 pm
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thanks for the great tips that will help me a lot finding the right gauge for me!
i also think after restringing its good to leave it alone for 12-24 hrs. that works for e-guitars and for sure especially for steels!
_________________
Sho~Bud Pro II, Sho~Bud LDG, Fender '79 Vibrosonic 1x15 JBL, Fender '72 Bandmaster Reverb + Custom 2x12 Vintage Alnico Cab, Fender 75 1x15", Randall Steel Man 500, Peavey Session 500, Goodrich L120, Sho~Bud Pedal
www.facebook.com/guido.luckylola |
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