Split Tuning Methods

Danny Hullihen · From: Harrison, Michigan

Anyone care to share their methods or special techniques they use in these applications?

Pit Lenz · From: Cologne, Germany

Hi Danny, this is what you find on the carter site:

Patrick Laffrat · From: Gemenos, France

split tuning:

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Roger Crawford · From: Griffin, GA USA

For guitars with splits tuned in the end of the neck:
Split Tuning Option
Guitars equipped with this option allow you to obtain a “combination or middle” note on strings that are raised a full tone and lowered a half tone, or vice-versa. The tuning procedure for each string that is affected is as follows:

Tune the string to its open-tuning pitch with the Tuning Keys as described in Basic Tuning.
Tune the “raise” note with the Nylon Nut as per the Basic Tuning procedure.
Engage both the “raise” and “lower” functions by pressing the proper pedal/knee lever combination at the same time.
Tune the “resultant/middle” note with the Nylon Nut that lowers the string, turning clockwise to flatten it or counter-clockwise to sharpen it.
With only the single pedal/knee levers that lowers the string engaged, tune the “lower” note with the Set Screw in the end of the neck, right side, behind the Changer Finger for that string.

Bobby Boggs · From: Upstate SC.

Roger is by the book I think. But I tune the lowest note before I tune the middle note. I think it was Ron Lashely Sr. that suggested this. Maybe Jack Strayhorn. Not sure. Anyway, it works best for me on guitars with split tuners like Emmons.......bb

Edit. This may not work with the extra rod like Carter uses.

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

Another less commonly known benefit of a split option is to be able to tune the resultant lowers when there are 2 strings on a guitar that both utilize 1/2 stops- ie.- both B's to Bb and then A. It's difficult to get them both to drop to a Bb and then to an A note perfectly in pitch but the split screw allows for this to happen. I use it on the 10th string lower first getting the Bb in tune with the pull rod then using the split screw to bring the A note back up to pitch. This information is courtesy of Frank Carter.

Danny Hullihen · From: Harrison, Michigan

Thanks guys! This is all excellent advice, and I appreciate the different methods described in accomplishing this. With some guitars being made different to accomplish this, (meaning those that actually have the capability) I can see how a different method would apply to accomplish this.

Chuck Martin · From: Clifton, Virginia

I was having some trouble figuring out how to set-up a tunable split on the 6th string on my Sierra S-10 between my RKL (whole tone drop)and my B pedal (half step raise). I used the extra rod method so wonderfully diagrammed by Patrick and it worked like a charm. I already have the A pedal/VKL split on strings 5&10 so this latest addition gives me some additional chord options without having to move the bar. Thanks.

Paddy Long · From: Christchurch, New Zealand

My Zums have splits on strings 5,6 and 10, and because I also have the franklin pedal I have both the set screw in the back of the bridge, and extra rods with the tuners coloured blue ... best of both designs I guess. My Hybrid guitar is set up the same as the standard one.

Bobby Boggs · From: Upstate SC.

Paddy, thanks for sharing. But I fail to see the need for a rod tuner with your set-up on guitar with split tuners.Regards Bobby

Joerg Schubert · From: Hagen, Germany

Hi Paddy ,
I perfectly understand the splits on strings 10 & 5.

But 6 - what kind of changes do you have on string 6? I know G#-A (P2), G#-B (Franklin LKV), G#-F# (Franklin Pedal 4). This makes only sense if you have the G#-F# on a lever not on pedal 4 or 0. Then you could use P2 and lever resulting in a G, otherwise you have to use P4 (or P0) with P2?

Joerg

P.S. I really like your snake skin seat, I got the tweed one from Dallas which fits very well to my Zum with rosewood-maple front.
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Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

I tune the splits on my Franklin (I have extra stop screws installed for strings 5 and 6) like Bobby Boggs. But, I've found that it really doesn't matter it works the same both ways - tune the lower first or the split first.

Bobby Boggs · From: Upstate SC.

Joerg, I read Paddy post to mean.Has the Franklin pedal.But he also has the changes 5,6 and 10 split-divided, on 2 knee levers. At least the 6th string. And he split tunes it with the B pedal..

Bo Borland · From: South Jersey -

I have a B-Bb lower on a knee and the pf pedal.

I can get the B to C# raises of course, and the B to Bb lowers , and the B to A lowers but I can't get all that and the split to C.
Any ideas?

Paddy Long · From: Christchurch, New Zealand

Joerg, I have both the Franklin pedal and a separate knee lever lowering G# to F# ...with a split on the knee lever!
Bobby - spot on!

Actually the snake skin seat is very complimentary to the colour scheme on my new Hybrid Zum - they go together nicely!

Paddy Long · From: Christchurch, New Zealand

Bo - on my Zums I need the extra rods to get the split on 5 and 10 --- as well as having the PF pedal. If you only have the screws in the back of the bridge, then one of the changes won't tune up properly! If you were to tune the Split "C" note first (using the screw) ...the screw wouldn't let the changer lower the B note down to A (PF pedal).

Paddy Long · From: Christchurch, New Zealand

Here is a view of my setup -- !

Note that the screw in the 9th string changer is for the C# lower and the Red tuner is for the 2nd string half stop "D" note. The Blue tuners are the extra Split rods!

Also my standard changer Zum has the splits set up exactly the same as the new Hybrid - This is how Bruce does it for my setup.

Bo Borland · From: South Jersey -

Thanks Paddy, I was told that I cannot get the split to C on my steel. I have never actually seen where the extra rod would connect to make it podssible.
If I install the rod and hardware, do you think it would work?

Paddy Long · From: Christchurch, New Zealand

Bo - it shouldn't be a problem . The rod goes in the raise holes (closest to the top if poss).... and in the bell crank hole that is closest to the underside deck of the guitar. So if the guitar is upside down the rod would connect to the bottom hole in the bellcrank.
Good luck.

Jacek Jakubek · From: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada

Does it make a difference if the extra raise rod for the split is not at the very top hole of the changer finger (closest to the strings)?

My split rods are above the regular raise rods, but there are still two empty holes above them. Should I move these rods up to the very top holes?

C Dixon · From: Duluth, GA USA

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

Carl, I think it depends on the guitar. I have 4 splits on my B6-tuned GFI Ultra, and GFI was very specific about where those extra rods needed to go. They basically told me if the wrong hole is used it won't work properly.
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C Dixon · From: Duluth, GA USA

Jim,

I have all the respect in the world for Gene Fields of GFI. But for the life of me I cannot see it. So it is possible that the folks at GFI is correct. If so, I stand corrected. And I will apologize in advance.

But I sure would like for someone to explain to me why it should make a difference. The ONLY thing I can think of: it may make the tuning of the maximum "lower" more or less critical, but beyond that I can not see any difference.

Gene Fields is truly one of the pioneers of PSG's. And a very trusted and respected mechanical virtuoso. I may call him on this one. "Enquiring minds want to know."

I think I will call Bud Carter also on this one.

Thanks for your input Jim. Smile

c.
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Dave Mudgett · From: Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee

[Edited to remove my very confusing and lysdexic earlier explanation. Listen to Earnest here, he has it correct.]

Carl, I can see lots of possibilities for splits on your copedent. It'll take a while to sort them out. On the need for both split tuning screw and split tuning rods, the only reason I can imagine one would need to do this would be to put more than one split on a string.

Earnest Bovine · From: Los Angeles CA USA

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