Help, I need a part for my broken Maverick!!!

[Grant Ferstat]

Hi there learned forum folk.

Grant the beginner from Western Australia again!

I was having my regular Saturday lesson with Perth based Steel Guitar Maestro Lucky Oceans today..very enjoyable and inspiring as usual.

Unfortunately the fun was curtailed when I broke my the 10th string pull finger on my old Maverick!

Does anyone know where I can obtain a replacement? Also any advice on replacement would be really helpful. It appears that the fingers (apologies for my terminology ignorance)all pivot on a sort axle on the bridge. It looks to me as if this must be removed to fit a replacement part?

[Andy Sandoval]

Have you talked to John Coop?

[Grant Ferstat]

Have you talked to John Coop?

No I haven't.

Once again excuse the ignorance but how do I contact him?

[CrowBear Schmitt]

try contacting John Coop here Grant :

Cshobud1@wmconnect.com

[Grant Ferstat]

try contacting John Coop here Grant :

Cshobud1@wmconnect.com

Thanks, Email sent.

I'll keep my fingers crossed now. I sure would like to get up and running again soon. I feel like I'm just starting to make a bit of progress!

[Russ Wever]

Grant,

To get you 'up and running' until you can get a replacement finger, first loosen all the strings.

Then using a rod that is the same diameter, or a bit smaller, than the changer-axle, push the
axle, from the side of the broken finger, just far enough such that the broken finger and the
ninth-strings finger will drop out when you back out the rod.

Then swap the ninth-string finger with the broken finger.

Of course, you will have to detach, and re-attach, the pull-rod that comes from the first pedal.

From the treble-side, push the changer-axle back into place, aligning the holes in the changer-
fingers as you push against the changer-axle.

With the broken finger (minus its 'tip') in the ninth strings position, you will have enough of a
finger to re-attach the ninth string, and you will have a 'complete' finger in the tenth-string
position, such that you can use the 'A' pedal.

Then tune up and go back to Lucky's!!

~Russ

[Jim Palenscar]

Based on Russ's advice it doesn't appear that you really need a replacement finger- just swapping the 9th and 10th should totally fix the situation and since the 9th string on a Maverick never moves no real need to replace it (IMHO). Way to go Russ!!

[Ernie Pollock]

Too tell the truth, I am surprised that those pot metal fingers by ShoBud hold up as well as they do. Wonder who's great idea to use pot metal in those great old guitars??

Ernie Pollock

Russ, that was a great idea!!

[Grant Ferstat]

Thanks for all the advice guys.

I'll get onto the temporary fix tomorrow but I am still going to purchase a couple more changer fingers for insurance!

BTW does anyone know a hum cancelling pickup that'll fit my Maverick and it's three screws into the body mounting?

I have to practice around computers, TV's etc and through headphones and the noise is killing me!

[Russ Wever]

. . . it doesn't appear that you really need a replacement finger . . .

Yeah, ya can prolly get by fine with results of the swap, it's just that,
from the looks of the broken finger, that the way it would 'butt up'
against the inside of the changer cavity in the cabinet, the angle of
where the string secures would be considerably less than the ~90
degrees of the rest of the fingers.

~Russ

[Nic du Toit]

You might be able to get spare ones from Jeff Surrat:

http://www.showprosteelguitars.com/index.html

Good Luck

[Alan Brookes]

Fortunately the 10th and 1st fingers on a 10-string instrument are the easiest to change, as they're on the end. I had to change the 4th finger on a Sho-Bud about two years ago as the pin had broken. I'd never done it before, but I didn't find too much difficulty. I got the replacement finger from John Coop.

[Paul Redmond]

What Russ Wever said!!! Right on!!!
PRR

[Gary Shepherd]

This is the reason I bought my CNC milling machine.

[Paul Redmond]

I removed the 'stop block' from my S-B when I added my 'new' pull system in 1979. The results are admittedly old hat, but they work well to this day. The results can be seen at "Hot Rod Maverick" on this Forum. I put the stops on the cross-shafts and thereby eliminated the possibility of mashing a pedal a bit too hard and breaking something. The stop block was, at that time, removed as it was no longer needed. A lot more work and parts to be made, but the little guy plays well after all these rusty years in the case.
PRR