Fender 2000 D-10 setup question

Neil Harms · From: Ionia, Missouri, USA

Help? I'm in the process of working over a Fender D10 2000. Anyone know which way is better for setting up the pulls at the changer end? Are the pulls closer to the body the shorter pulls and should most of the pulls be on them or on the pulls farther from the body? It's my first experience with this changer. It's pretty cool but I'd really like to only hook this all up once if possible... Any help appreciated! Thanks.

p.s. The adjustable return springs are pretty cool. All the steels I've had so far have had fixed springs that you needed to hack or change out to change the tension. My steel was built in 67 according to dates in ink inside the changers. Hard to believe this feature wasn't included on everything after this but my 76 Bud doesn't have em. Interesting.

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

Neil, as I recall the closer to the body the shorter (and stiffer) the pull. The choice is really a "feel" decision more than anything else. The nice part is that even though the 2000 is more complicated than the 400 or 1000 with their single raise/single lower changer, switching things around later is still easier than on just about anything. String gage, pull combinations and such will also affect the feel, so it's probably going to be pure guesswork...and if it doesn't feel right, change it. Did you get it dismantled or are you just changing the copedent?

FWIW the GFI's also have adjustable lower springs...Gene Fields, of course, came from Fender. It's a great feature to fine-tune things.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional

Neil Harms · From: Ionia, Missouri, USA

Hey Jim,

It's all been apart, cleaned, lubed and put back together. I'm changing things around some. This is my third Fender rebuild. I've taken apart two 400's and put em back together. They are way easier to work on but the 2000 is pretty easy too. I'm thinking I'll be using the pulls farther away from the body first for a fairly practical reason. The crossbrace piece of the frame sets pretty close to the changer. This causes the little cable tubes to rub just a bit when one uses the pullers closer to the body. Not a big deal but I figure I'll start with the farther away pulls and work from there. The pedal action was pretty nice but a tad sticky when I got it. I'm guessing it'll be really nice with everything clean and no goo in the changer. Also swapped the tuning pans and changers. The C6 side stuff looked new and I do play more E9. I'm putting a version of Sneaky's B6 on the back modified to 10 string. I'll post pics when I finally get it done. Have to build some knee levers. Not too worried about adding some holes since I counted over 60 "bonus" holes already there. Thanks for the tips. I'll keep you posted.

Neil Harms · From: Ionia, Missouri, USA

So Jim, here's a question. I'll have 6 pedals and 2 knees available when I'm done. I've tried to work off Sneaky's original setup and off the cool 10-String version you have. My question is, what makes sense on my RKL? The pull I have listed was originally my P9. If I move it to a knee as you did on you ten string, which pedal from the 8 string tuning should now go on my P9? I was just going to pick from what's left but then wasn't sure where to place it in the pedal order. Don't know if that makes sense or not... Can't wait to get it up and playing.

Neil Harms · From: Ionia, Missouri, USA

Having trouble getting my JPEG to load... I'll try again later...

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

Hey Neil - with a 6+2 I'd probably (using Sneaky's sequence of pedals) set it up in this order: 1,2,3,5,6,7 and then have the pedal 8 minor change and the LKL 1st string lower on the two knee levers. Those are the critical changes; pedal 4 I rarely use and 8 does what I do with it anyway; pedal 9 Pete never used - it was a failed experiment he left on as placeholder for his foot; and the RKR change, while nice for "normal" sounding pedal steel stuff, is not something Pete used that often and I don't have it on my GFI's 3+4 copedent.

For me (and I think most of the guys playing any version o Pete's B6), the most important pedal changes (in order) are 1&2 (they're a unit, essentially), 7, and 8. Those will get you 90% of what you need on a 400, and on a 2000 you can set up the same kind of thing using the string layout I use. Then, the nxt ones (again in order of use more than anything else...and strictly opinion) are LKL, 3, 6, 5, 4, and RKR. 5 and 6 are sort of a "unit" as they give you a diminished chord, but for the amount of time diminished chords are used in country-rock I could live without them and use them al "lick" pdals instead.

7 is my most-used change other than 1&2. For someone like me who spent 30+ years playing Stringbender Teles, it IS my Stringbender.

I'd repost the 10-string copedent but I don't have it on this computer, and I'm sorta stuck - laid up from foot surgery Thursday(plus from another upload attemp in another thread, it appears the forum's picture upload system is on the fritz...)!

Email me if you need some help....even shoot me your number if necessary; I have unlimited long distance and would be happy to call if you want.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional

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